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A question about Celluclay

4.2K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  Auroranut  
#1 ·
In my research Celluclay has turned up as an alternative to plaster.

What are the benefits or disadvantages compared to plaster? I am a novice to diorama building and have never used either before. Specifically I am trying to make small mounds of earth (scale 1:12) to add to a piece of styrene sculpted groundwork, the purpose of adding the mounds of earth being that so I can embed or glue clumps of weed or long grass to add detail (am considering store-bought lichen and wood chippings for the latter).

My main concern is: if celluclay is made from recycled paper, wouldn't anything modelled from it be just as light and crunchy as paper (once dry)? Would that detract from the appearance/function if you are trying to model something like stones, or a big piece of rocky terrain?

I would appreciate any suggestions.
 
#2 ·
Celluclay is more like paper mache. It dries much more solid than wet, ground up paper, although you are right, it is very light when dry, and it is a little fragile... not to say that it doesn't work well for dioramas. It is much easier to work with than plaster and a lot easier to clean up. I've used it a couple times, although for build-ups on diorama work I almost always use bondo or plastic wood.
 
#3 ·
Celluclay is an "instant papier mache" stuff. It looks like grey drier lint... you mix with water (I always mix in some white glue) and it forms a paste. You can make it fairly smooth. It doesn't pour like plaster. Also, you don't want to layer it on deep as it air dries. You can build it up or put it over a core. I wouldn't go deeper than 1/4" and it does shrink some. You can also tint it with acrylic paint. I have used it as a dio material for ages. Good stuff once you get used to it.
 
#4 · (Edited)
You may also want to try out Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. Very cheap for whichever size can you get, has multiple uses, and makes some of the best rocks and boulders you'd want (tear off different size chunks of foam rubber, squeeze them down in a bowl of wet Durhams, let them go to soak it up, then let them dry). Adds surprisingly little weight, too...once saw where a guy built up a whole cliff face this way (chicken wire supported) for a very impressive cowboy/indian dio.
 
#6 ·
You may also want to try out Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty.
My brain is obviously still in a Darvocet fog... when I said "Plastic Wood" I meant Durhams water putty. Yeah, I know... two completely different things. Durham's is great stuff, used with foam rubber, as mentioned, or spread on broken pieces of Styrofoam. I've used it many times with chunks of that thick, blue (or pink) foam insulation that you can get for a few bucks for a 4 by 8 foot sheet. I cut up pieces and epoxy them together, then rough them out with a rotary tool. I then paint on a thin wash of Durham's and let that dry. This seems to help the thicker stuff stick better. I then mix up a thicker batch and spread it on. as it hardens, it can be sculpted a bit with clay working tools, Popsicle sticks, just about anything. When hardened, they can be left rough, sanded smooth, whatever you want. I usually use acrylic paint on them, but they can be painted with just about any kind of paint... I've used lacquer and enamel as well. (Acrylic paint can also be mixed into the water you mix into the Durham's, to bring the base material closer to what your finished color should be. Just remember that it dries darker than it looks when wet, and the color will be influenced by the tan/yellowish color of the material itself.)
 
#5 ·
Celluclay is light, but can be messy and slow to set. If you’re looking to add rocky layers or layer up hills, I suggest a couple types of foam. First floral foam:

Sculpting:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/s_hasty/IMG_2626.jpg

Complete:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/s_hasty/IMG_2796.jpg

It's porous, so it's great for lava-type rock.

Now, pink or blue sheet insulation (same stuff, different color):

Raw foam under construction:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/s_hasty/e22b.jpg

Completed projects:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/s_hasty/GatePillar.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/s_hasty/Picture159.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/s_hasty/Picture177.jpg

The floral foam takes enamels and acrylics and the pink/blue foam only takes acrylics or water based paints. The gate pillar was painted with latex paint and Apple Barrel acrylics.

Hope this helps!
 
#7 ·
I only made rocks with Durhams, and filled plastic parts I wanted to be heavier...when you use it for surfacing, like on foam board, do you need to punch little holes to give the Durham's extra grab? I would think just coating it on would cause the whole slab to just fall off when dry, but you tell me? :confused:
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#8 ·
If the original surface is roughened, then I just paint on a thin first layer, let it dry and then trowel on a thicker layer. If the original surface is very smooth, such as insulation sheets or masonite, then I either punch/drill holes or rough the surface.

And it does work well for weighting/filling vinyl kits.

It slices, it dices, it makes julienne fries in seconds! And BOY, does it catch fish!:p (seriously, it is great stuff.)
 
#9 ·
So, Celluclay is a substance that is applied like plaster (but in reality made of packed paper), and once formed and cured it could be a tad light and fragile? It is very hard for me to picture this without seeing (or handling) a sample!!!

I am now kind of sold on Durham's after you gentlemen's recommendation as what I am doing is really very simple (a few mounds of earth here and there and a pebble or two). An added bonus is Durham's has its practical uses around the house too.

Thanks for the excellent suggestions.
 
#10 ·
I also use Durham's for dios and other things. Just remember if used in "exposed" places it needs to be painted both sides to keep out weather, etc. or it will absorb moisture and fall out. ( sort of like my hair & teeth) :(