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Since March of this year I've been making some furniture and doing some renovation inside my house... this was my first time putting up drywall, but making new cabinet doors and trimwork will be pretty easy for me.

I started out in woodworking about 10 years ago, when I started taking apart discarded pallets to make mini storage boxes, it is amazing how much good red oak and poplar I've gotten from pallets... mostly I just make small boxes for friends and neighbors for storing jewelry, chessmen, etc... so if you need a small custom-built wooden box for storage, talk to me. :cool:

BTW I also make polygonal boxes: hexagons, octagons, etc.
 

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I was wanting to have a custom wooden base for one of my models.
I would like the shape of it to be oblong with a groove halfway down on the inside about a quarter inch deep..? 36" L X 16" W X 3" T
311687

-Jim G.G.
 

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How odd to see another Marty when I looked for a woodworking thread...

My latest project has been to build a stand for my new digital piano:



Roland wants $120 for something like this, probably made from particle board, this was about $30.

I had bought some aluminum in case the legs needed some bracing, after a week with the heavy piano on the stand the slight flex of the sides was bothering me a little so added a brace on each side:



Now it's solid as a rock.

FYI the piano is a Roland FP-30:



After 25 years of not playing I'm basically starting over, now there are so many good options for programs to learn from that I should stick with it longer this time. Also back then I didn't have room to leave the keyboard set up near my computer so it was a pain to set up and take down all the time. Now I have this space for a permanent setup with an old laptop so no excuse not to sit down and practice any time I feel like it.
 

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Nice! Both on the bench and getting back into music. I am barely able to turn the radio on, but love when others play.
 

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You might try your local high school wood shop or vocational school annex. When you say the inside how far inset from the edge do you want the grove to be?
 

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You might try your local high school wood shop or vocational school annex. When you say the inside how far inset from the edge do you want the grove to be?
I would say something between 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. So it can accommodate 1/4 thick plexiglass.
I think the main concern is the radius on each end. The groove cut inside as well as the cut of the radius on the outside. Heck , I would even be willing to take it in 3 Pieces. I could easily glue it together after I get the plexiglass inside.
-Jim G.G.
 

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I know this is not what you are wanting size or shape wise, but in general the plexiglass would fit down into a groove on the wood base like this glass dome does. Do you already have the plexiglass bent to the shape you want or a dome made? Or will you do that after you get the base.

 

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I was planning on cutting the plexiglass the same shape as the wood base. Have not thought about a cover for it just yet. 😁
-Jim G.G.
 

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I don't have the tools to make a base like that, too large a radius for me to cut, and I don't have a router for the grove. And it looks like the OP hasn't posted since 2013.
 

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I don't have the tools to make a base like that, too large a radius for me to cut, and I don't have a router for the grove. And it looks like the OP hasn't posted since 2013.
Bummer. ☹
 

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I was planning on cutting the plexiglass the same shape as the wood base. Have not thought about a cover for it just yet. 😁
-Jim G.G.
Your best option for the top will be to cut a pexiglass piece to fit directly on top of the plexiglass wall(s).


My other questions are oriented towards the shape and perspective of the base. Namely how tall will the plexiglass wall piece(s) be.

My understanding of your design plan is now that the plexiglass will fit on a lip at the top edge of the wood base. And not into a groove inset on the top surface. How do you plan to secure it into place?

What do you plan to do about the seams or if it is one piece of plexiglass - the one seam?

And in regards to weight - what type of wood are you wanting to use? And have you priced what a 3" X 16" X 36" slab of any type of wood costs now?
 

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Actually I wanted the plexiglass to fit inside the groove that has been cut into the wood. As far as the base, it will be the wood itself. The wood can be made of 4 pieces. The radius on each end and the straight pieces are front and back.
The plexiglass can be 1 piece. I wanted the top to be translucent for lighting. Hopefully this makes sense 🙃
-Jim G.G.
 

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I understand what you are after. You are probably pushing the limit radi on both ends of the curving piece of the plexiglass though, but if your are careful the groove should hold it in place. The builder is going to need to know not only how deep the groove is to be but how far from the edge do you want it to be. The type of wood used will limit that distance, but 3/8ths of an inch would be the minimum.

So if you are looking for 16" width and 36" length of interior clearance you will need to add at least a 1 inch to each of of those measurements. Otherwise your internal space is going to 15.5 inches wide and 35.5 inches long.

Between sourcing the wood piece(s) and shipping - you would probably still be better off cost wise to have it done locally though.
 
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Well, I can't find anyone here locally. So if anybody out there that may be of help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
-Jim G.G.
 

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Have you decided on a type of wood yet?

Based on your attached image shape you are wanting an oblong board piece that is 3" thick, 36" long and 16" wide. I will source you the cost of a piece of wood based on those dimensions and the type of wood you want to use.

Do you want a shaped edge? Or just a squared edge like a shelf? (Since it will have rounded ends, I would round off the top edge - at minimum, for my own visual aesthetics.)

Do you want it stained, finished or painted? This is something you can do yourself of course but can effect the final shipping costs if you okay the actual wood purchase.


In the mean time have you considered a console table, coffee table or small table from a resale or antique store instead? Or you may already have a furniture piece you can use. It could also be a desk or dresser. Another source could be an auction house if you have one local to you.

It may turn out to be cheaper to find something you can source that way instead and use braces on the top surface to hold the plexiglass in place in the oblong shape you want. Depending on the wood piece you select and finish - I am seeing brass pins being used with a natural finish on mahogany or walnut.
 

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It could be just regular 2X4.
I could stain it myself and follow it up with a couple of coats of urethane. The 2X4 can be ripped to 3 inches tall. The plan is just add furniture pegs on the bottom of the base. The kind of pegs that are used on the bottom of chairs . Instead of the grooves, I could place the plexiglass on top secured down with small button head brass screws. But I would still like to have the oblong shape.
As you mentioned before, it may need to be longer and wider since I'm placing the plexiglass on top.
-Jim G.G.
 

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P. S.
I can get actual dimensions, overall length and width. Like previously mentioned, it could be made up of 4 different sections that I can glue together. I have no problem sanding, gluing, and adding a protective finish myself. As you may have already seen on my model builds.
-Jim G.G.
 

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I follow you on having ''4 sections that you can glue together'' as only being 2 straight pieces that are the width of 2 X 4 and 20 inches long. And 2 pieces that are curved on a 16" (actuallly a 17.5" radius) like a picture frame and not a solid slab of wood like a piece of butcher block

Or are you talking about cutting the solid oblong shape in half and then in half again to make the 4 pieces you would glue back together?


Both assembly versions can be done but it would require more wood and time to construct a jig - to bend the curved portions for the first build version above on my end and I would not be able to guarantee they would still be in the correct curved shape and flat when they finally got to you!

In the 2nd build version would you want the butcher block lines (and edges) to be lengthwise or width wise? If you go with a stain or protective finish that will add at least one or 2 additional block lines depending on the way you wanted them oriented. If you decide to paint it wouldnt matter. If you go with an 18'' width I can eliminate one additional line for sure by building 2 pieces and letting you glue them back together. I would still cut them in half to make 4 pieces to ship to you for assemble on your end.
 

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Finding straight and flat (not cupped) 2 X4s will be hard to do though. It will probably still need to be selections from the dimensional lumber bin.

If you can find them yourself you can use regular 2 x 4s and have them cut to length at Lowes or Home Depot and they can also rip the sides to give you the 3" height you want - do cuts on both sides to give you a flat surface on both the top and bottom of the finished piece since their edges will be rounded as studs.

If you go with 2 X 4s the cut ends might still be a problem though. Leaving them square or cutting them to the oblong end shapes you want will leave a soft spongy area that will be hard to sand smooth without a filler and will not be attractive still - even when painted over. Fitting a finished end piece on a squared finished end would be easy. Fitting one to a curved edge can be done but will take some time and effort to accomplish.

These options will make the wood cost a lot cheaper though.

Do you want to check with one or the other of them first or a local lumber supplier in your area?

The weight of even soft pine wood will still be a significant cost to ship, too. (Think of it as mailing essentially 8 bundled 2x4s.)
 
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