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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
PolarLights 1/350 TMP Refit ... DONE!

I thought I share this with you guys too since not everyone of you hops over to StarshipModeler.

Two days ago I finished major construction work on my 1/350 Refit, the last big step being the installation of the saucer to the dorsal.
Always a delicate thing to do. Will it hold? Won't it sag? So far it held firmly for about 48h so I think it will be a-ok.

The model features practical flood light effects. No Raytheon effect involved. The lighting system is my own, born mostly out of try and error and getting hints of how others did it.
The positioning lights and ACL strops are realized by optical fibers, but are not working yet; the impulse generating electronics still pending their construction.

The model has custom made REC-deck and TMP "Spock space walk" air lock, VIP-lounge, Hangarbay and Arboretum are very detailed wihtout the use of after marked kits.
The dorsal / saucer connection, as well as the dorsal / impulse engine area is being reworked to get rid of light leaks right now.
So far only the inner warp grills have gotten their final color (purple) and the ship hull is a mere semi gloss white.

And that is what she looks like:


















continued...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks on the feedback. :D

What's a Raytheon effect though?
It is an internal lighting effect that simulates the Refits spot light effects. The method was used to astonishing effect by Ian "Raytheon" Lawrence on his first PL 1/350 Refit.

You can find his first build here: http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/wipplent4.html

The concept is to leave appropriate shapes un masked when you do the internal light block and later from the outside at same shape and location. Applying a light source on the inside will make the light shine through the plastic creating the spot effect.

The Problem with the method is that the spots can have a yellowish color from shining through the plastic. Depending on the plastic used. You are screwed with using the Raytheon effect if your kit is a grey mold, meaning made of grey plastic.

Another problem is, that most Refit builder use practical spot lights at the base of the warp pylons and dorsal/neck. The mix in practical and "faked" spot effects is noticeable.

It is however a very good method to get the onscreen spot effect, since not all of them are possible to recreate in the real world. Like the ones on the inside aft ends of the warp nacelles. The lower and top saucer spots are also very hard to do. I went to a lot of work to get them the way they show up now.
 

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Absolutely gorgeous work.

Did you make the detailed work yourself (bottom saucer loading dock thingy)?

And as nice as your modeling work, I LOVE that digital cameras have progressed enough today to provide the lights out look you've captured. It looks like camera test shots for a movie.

Beautiful!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Did you make the detailed work yourself (bottom saucer loading dock thingy)?
Yes, the air lock was a scratch build done by me. Here is a photo survey on how I did it:


I used this early Phase II / TMP production picture as a guide.
You can tell it's early since its before Andrew Probert goT to it, because of the TOS style planetary sensor dome.



I opened an appropriate hole at the port side hatch location. Than created a fitting hatch cover.



Styrene sheet is used for the air lock walls and cut to conform to the saucer curvature.
A slit on either side to receive 1mm clear styrene as a light element. Then glued in to place.


More strip styrene to form the air lock wall, with a 6mm hole covered by engraved styrene to simulate the hatch door.
Same engraved styrene used for the ceiling.



A trapezoid shape was created out of ever green strips and various Greeplies added to the ceiling to make it busier.
Then masked everything except for the hatch and primed in grey, which is its true color.

Final look after mask removal and lit:
 

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Yes, the air lock was a scratch build done by me. Here is a photo survey on how I did it:


I used this early Phase II / TMP production picture as a guide.
You can tell it's early since its before Andrew Probert goT to it, because of the TOS style planetary sensor dome.



I opened an appropriate hole at the port side hatch location. Than created a fitting hatch cover.



Styrene sheet is used for the air lock walls and cut to conform to the saucer curvature.
A slit on either side to receive 1mm clear styrene as a light element. Then glued in to place.


More strip styrene to form the air lock wall, with a 6mm hole covered by engraved styrene to simulate the hatch door.
Same engraved styrene used for the ceiling.



A trapezoid shape was created out of ever green strips and various Greeplies added to the ceiling to make it busier.
Then masked everything except for the hatch and primed in grey, which is its true color.

Final look after mask removal and lit:
How do you keep the hatch cover in place when it's not displayed as open? Magnets?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How do you keep the hatch cover in place when it's not displayed as open? Magnets?
That was my initial plan, some metal at the back of the cover and a magnet somewhere next to the air lock structure on the inside of the saucer. But wouldn't you know. I made that cover fit so precisely into the hatch opening that it just stays in place without any help. I need a needle or use the tip of my exacto to get it out again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Finaly an Update here too.

Lots of work since my initial post, or in other words, pre Aztec paint job is done.
All colors used are based on what you can see on the color Pictures of the Ent-A and some extrapolation
what they might have looked like before ILM dull coated her down. Some areas, like the lower half of the
forward secondary hull and most of the deflector housing are the original TMP color. Back paddling form
there I created the lightbluegray tones of the strongback. Feel free to visit my photobucket album for
pictures of the color coding I did using TMP/A reference pictures and comparison shots with my colors to them.

I know am not exactly accurate and don't meet some expatiation with the colors. After all there are lots
of Refits using the PL or aftermarket decals for the Aztec and that has created an expectation on what
"it has to look like". But those Aztec colors are PL and after market providers view of the colors, this is
what I interpreted and extracted from the excising reference pictures of the studio model.
And that is what I wanted a studio model look! NOT an onscreen look. Please keep that in mind.

Ok, on we go:

Strongback and main deflector housing:




Dorsal:


Bridge and B/C deck area



I found a new color and am working on trying to get a more correct mintbluegray color for the bridge area. If it works I will repaint the bridge area, if it doesn't ti stays as is.

continued...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Impulse engine and impulse crystal:



(DLMs supplied decals have been used since they feature not as prominent grid lines as the kits or PNT decals )

With this finally done the major detail paint work is finished!
I will order the necessary interference colors to do the pearl Aztec the next few days.
In the time those need to get to me I will do fix up work with the primary white where necessary
since there are still some jagged lines and signs of handling her while painting that need to go.

continued...
 
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