Hobbyist Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok I've been trying to get back into 1/4 scale racing for awhile now. Bought a used car and was going to go through it to get it ready only to find it needs more than that. Now it seem's that the only site that had a lot of parts, cars and great photo's of everything they sold is no more. So now im asking can someone tell me where to look now? I have a WCM and would like to get parts for it and some cool after market parts like shock's and other things. can y'all please help thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok thanks all for the WCM tip's, can y'all tell me where to get other stuff like shocks, fule bottles and the like thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,466 Posts
Fuel bottle... BRP the people that sell the tires for 1/4 scale.
Shocks there are several companys, you could call Freddies/JR Quarterscale, ADD is on the right of this page.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,772 Posts
Shocks, there are several outlets. Me personally the DynoShox are the best out there but are not available right now. They will be shortly if my information is correct.

Springs, RC4Less, no need to look any where else.

Engine work, Donnie Nelson Racing Engines.

Fuel bottles/Tires, only one place. BRP

Anything else, feel free to ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
For cars & parts, call Johnny Bright/Charlotte Quarter Scale. His number is 704-400-7821. He's a Lightning dealer, but also has lots of tires in stock & other parts. Brings his parts trailer to Lakeside/Clover each race. Good source for new & used cars too. Really good guy, who will treat you right.

For engine work, call Donnie Nelson. His number is 864-706-0995. He also is a really nice guy & his attention to detail on our engines is second to none.

Ken Dillard #00
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
I'm a couple months into this now and I've found some resources for parts so that really isn't my question. I have a WCM cage car and I'm more curious about diagrams or an exploded view of it. I've seen the parts list on WCM's website but I'd like to know what I'm looking at when pricing out or ordering parts. And what's the difference between "Old Style" and the other?

I'm also unsure about how some of the stuff is assembled. The front hub/spindle of my car confused me a little this last weekend. The spindle bolt goes from the outside in, and is nutted on the very inside of the spindle/bearings. My question... Is the hub pressed onto the spindle bolt or should it spin freely?

Thanks
Adam
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
891 Posts
I'm a couple months into this now and I've found some resources for parts so that really isn't my question. I have a WCM cage car and I'm more curious about diagrams or an exploded view of it. I've seen the parts list on WCM's website but I'd like to know what I'm looking at when pricing out or ordering parts. And what's the difference between "Old Style" and the other?

I'm also unsure about how some of the stuff is assembled. The front hub/spindle of my car confused me a little this last weekend. The spindle bolt goes from the outside in, and is nutted on the very inside of the spindle/bearings. My question... Is the hub pressed onto the spindle bolt or should it spin freely?

Thanks
Adam
Sorry, but we don't really have any exploded views or even a manual at this point. I'm not sure one ever existed for these cars. it is on the list of the many things we at WCM are trying to accomplish but it is an uphill battle at the moment. But, maybe I can help.....
As far as the "old style" versus new front spindles. The new style has the bearings in the spindle housing as opposed to the hub itself. The hub and bolt when new should slide together fairly easily but usually after some miles the hub kind of galls onto the bolt and can get pretty sticky. I usually take some scotch bright to the bolt and a bit of anti-seize to lessen this a bit. As far as the bolt, it doesn't really matter which way it goes in. I've found that nut on the outside clears the spring a little better. Keep a close eye on that nut backing off too. I use red loctight on mine and just snug it up so the bearings don't bind. The assembly of the hub, spacer, and housing is up to the individual. How you orient all those parts can dictate your track width and offset. I've seen about every combo imaginable! It's just what works for you. Also don't forget that flipping the housing over changes the steering arm position for Ackerman adjustment. Rod end farthest outboard should give a more standard Ackerman setup while inboard give you negative Ackerman.
Hope this helps. If you have anymore questions lemme know.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Thanks Chris. I'm figuring it out as I go. Good luck on that up hill battle. I for one am looking forward to the new WCM.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top