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I'm hoping this hasn't been asked and answered before, but it probably has been. Anyway, here goes my rerun questions. I've been hearing/reading that the Slottech T-Jet Comm brushes are now becoming the Go-To brushes for T-Jet racers, so how come ? Are they really that much better than Wizzard brushes ? Also, what are their specs, ie: what materials in their makeup, and are they as tall, or taller than Wizzard brushes, or are the the height of JB's ?
Thanks for any replies...
 

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They are taller than the Wizzards. My experience has been mostly good. I'm not yet convinced that they are superior to the Wiz. As with the Wizzards, I have had a few bad ones where they smear on the comm and seem to have the occasional bad spot in the mix when formed. Try them and see if they work better for you. So far I've not had any that were too tight for the chassis, but they are a close fit. I would think that is good for stability, as long as they move freely. Your mileage may vary.:thumbsup: Al
 

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Worth a try. I've found that heating them while on a piece of wood wicks away the oil. Depending on the oil used and how badly they are soaked, they can often be significantly improved, but never seem to be as good as new.

The Other Al
 

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I'll play along Al,

NEVER an issue here. I prefer a moly based assembly lube for the bottom of the arm shaft. Stays put, doesnt sling er creep unless your retarded with the application. The brushes stay dry and wear at the normal rate, with no more additional comm grungous than one would expect.

As for the brush fit in the "not a guide, but just a hole" T-jet guide, regardless of brand of brush or brand of chassis; I like a sensible bit of breathing room around the edges. If ya build enough chassis, over time you'll find that most all of the available modern brushes have a home, so I like them all in their preferred application. Say you have brushes that dont fit one chassis, odds are they'll work in some other pile of parts down the road. I just toss them in the too fat for comfort pile until I come across a chassis that has brush holes that are too sloppy for comfort. The rest is obvious.

Whether it's from a lack of clearance when they are new and clean, or goobed up from lack of service or poor hygiene; uncorrected brush bind is a killer. I'm fairly superstitious about certain things. So I'll add this:

Whenever I pick a cold T-jet car/chassis out of storage, I ALWAYS make a peace sign with my fingers and then slowly roll the car upside down along my fingers so I can see the brushes and springs twitch before applying power.
 

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I did a good bit of head to head testing with multiple cars on my dyno where I can see the numbers in just pure speed.

I have watch others test them and now that all they use!

I provided that info here and on other BB's!

It's kind of old info now!

I thought I made a video showing the dyno diff on the ho-tips BB, but i may have wiped it.

I may get a chance soon to redo it, but working on some other vids now
 

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All good points, Bill. Since I started using L.A.B. oil, I experience zero brush fouling. However, I have been helping out a number of my fellow racers who have yet to stop drowning theirs. Thus the experience in attempted salvage.

Yes, there is a fine line between stable and tight as well as varying tolerances in these precision instruments we call TJets. I agree that there should be visible movement. On the other hand, I'm sure that, like me, you have tried to save a melty tub or two only to see the comm button rattle spastically in the oversized hole like a scared raccoon in a garbage can. Somewhwere in between is an acceptable fit.

So far I have not seen any tight Slottechs and until I do , all I can do is keep an eye out. If Super Fist has them, I can't answer for that.
 

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OM, that is what i am looking for. and I am absorbing every word. I know a few things about this subject, but I always like to see other opinions. thank you and I hope others chime in.
 

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on the oil thing, i have being for years is hitting them with the soldering iron!

I know it works, because i can see the number on the dyno!!
that said, sometimes i still have to put new brushes in.

I have 6 fray cars, 6 greenbrier cars, 2 nostalgia cars, and a hand full of other cars!!

the slottech brushes have mad them all faster without fail.
 

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Here's my take on the brushes ... i too have a dyno i use and when i do the Slottech brushes do every bit as well as the Wiz do. I see minor blips of happy cars at times with them over the Wiz on SOME chassis but not all.
On fit ... as the process for making the chassis allows for SOME LOL variance shall we say at each different chassis brush holes due to mold lots etc , the likelyhood of ill fits is already present. Toss in a process of sintering and grinding or extruding or pressing the brush to a given size ... and you have more potential for an ill fit. So as was previously mentioned mix and match like everything else on these little gems !

Bear :wave:
 

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I will put in an Extra $.02 on brushes, I have not been able to tell a major difference in any of the brands, but I can tell minor (as in squeezing the last little bit out of a t-jet) and you all know that does not come easy. I have some cars that have mixed brands of brushes in them, JB, Wiz & Slot-Tech, Cleaning process, I have not tried heating them, I thoroughly clean them with contact cleaner, dry & polish. I do check the OD size and height of the brush compared to the chassis, I think the correct fit is part of the key, I think the other major factor is how they are adjusted & I have never had a true race car that I could swap brushes and see the same performance without tweaking the springs, again this is for everything it has. I also like Bill's idea of making sure you dont have a stuck brush before applying power. I have also noticed some are a little harder on the com plate than others, but I am not going to name brands.

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never tried them, would like to get some to do some testing.

For me I do get a performance gain on 100% of my cars with the slottech brushes. But I also run very heavy brush tension in the brake position.

Did the same with the other brushes.
I have also notice less wear with the slottech brushes. I do not have to true the comm as much as i did before with the wiz ones.
 

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[/QUOTE] I have also notice less wear with the slottech brushes. I do not have to true the comm as much as i did before with the wiz ones.[/QUOTE]

Interesting, I have found the opposite to be true, while excellent performance with Slottech brushes, they seem to wear faster due to silver content causing more cleanup of the comm.

Wizzard wear a little better, Slottech perform a little better.
 

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Interesting, I have found the opposite to be true, while excellent performance with Slottech brushes, they seem to wear faster due to silver content causing more cleanup of the comm.

Wizzard wear a little better, Slottech perform a little better.
If slottech brushes have silver in them, they are NOT legal for the Fray.

"Any flat top and bottom carbon/copper motor brushes are allowed. Brushes may be scored with one score line or an X. No exaggerated deep cuts or crevices allowed; this will be checked for at tech."

I know this from a chassis of mine getting doinked for Galinko brushes.
 
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