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Just wondering what will happen if i move the RR closer to the chassis? I know if i move to LR wheel out it will tighten the car up will it have the same effect?
 

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Just wondering what will happen if i move the RR closer to the chassis? I know if i move to LR wheel out it will tighten the car up will it have the same effect?
It should make your car tighter going in. Will allow you to run a firmer RR or softer RF.

Steve.
 

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It should make your car tighter going in. Will allow you to run a firmer RR or softer RF.

Steve.


+1

RPM IS RIGHT IN THEORY BUT YOU WIL NOTICE THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE ON ENTRY YOUR CAR WILL BE MUCH TIGHTER

MOVE OUT THE RIGHT REAR MORE TURN IN
MOVE IN THE RIGHT REAR KESS TURN IN

MOVE IN THE LEFT REAR LOOSER ON EXIT
MOVE OUT THE LEFT REAR TIGHTER ON EXIT

THIS IS RACE PROVEN
I GOT MY INFO FROM JERRY PARROT AND HE KNOWS HIS SHIZZZ
 

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+1

RPM IS RIGHT IN THEORY BUT YOU WIL NOTICE THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE ON ENTRY YOUR CAR WILL BE MUCH TIGHTER

MOVE OUT THE RIGHT REAR MORE TURN IN
MOVE IN THE RIGHT REAR KESS TURN IN

MOVE IN THE LEFT REAR LOOSER ON EXIT
MOVE OUT THE LEFT REAR TIGHTER ON EXIT

THIS IS RACE PROVEN
I GOT MY INFO FROM JERRY PARROT AND HE KNOWS HIS SHIZZZ
Being very new to oval this is great info. My question is this; how much movement are we talking? What size spaces are used on the axle to start making a difference?
 

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Being very new to oval this is great info. My question is this; how much movement are we talking? What size spaces are used on the axle to start making a difference?
.020" at a time for me. If your car is good, making small .020" shim changes can make a difference.

The key to this is shimming enough to get good drive off the corner while making sure the car will still turn for you. Also, IMO, moving the LR in and out makes more of a difference than moving than RR in and out. I think you notice changes when exiting a corner more than when entering a corner, at least I do.
 

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Being very new to oval this is great info. My question is this; how much movement are we talking? What size spaces are used on the axle to start making a difference?


THIS IS SOMETHING THAT I PUT TOGETHER OVER A YEAR AGO AND IT HAS BEEN VERY HELPFULL TO ME AND OTHERS... I HOPE IT WORKS FOR YOU


1) PUTTING SHIMS ON THE FRONT AXLE BEHIND THE TIRE
2) PUTTING SHIMS ON THE KING PINS ESPECIALLY ON THE TOP
3) ADJUSTING THE UPPER A-ARM FRONT TO BACK ON THE CASTER BLOCK
4) PUTTING STIFFER OR SOFTER FRONT SPRINGS
5) MOVING THE CENTER SHOCK UP AND DOWN ON THE SHOCK MOUNT
6) ADJUSTING THE TENSION ON THE CENTER SHOCK
7) MOVING THE BATTERY TRAY FOWARD AND BACK.
OFFSETTING THE T-PLATE AND OR THE POD
9) MOVING THE SIDE SHOCKS UP AND DOWN ON THE SHOCK MOUNTS
10) PUTTING WEDGE IN AND TAKING WEDGE OUT OF THE SIDE SHOCKS
11) THICKER OR THINNER SHOCK OILS ON ALL 3 SHOCKS
12) ADDING OR REMOVING SHIMS ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE REAR AXLE
13) ADDING OR REMOVING SHIMS ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE REAR AXLE

I AM SURE THERE ARE SOME THING THAT I AM MISSING SO IF THERE IS ANY CHANGES THAT YOU MAKE TO YOU CAR THAT MAY BE HELPFULL UST POST WHAT THE CHANGE IS AND HOW IT EFFECTS THE CAR... THANKS AGAIN
David "DOUGHBOY" Ridings REMEMBER THIS WILL NOT ONLY HELP ME BUT COULD POSSIBLY HELP A LOT OF OTHERS Ok... I'll give it a shot, Just remember there's no right or wrong answers. Meaning that depending on how the rear is setup effects how you set the front and viseversa.

#1... I do not reccomend doing this, The Akerman can be thrown way off and make the car do crazy things in the corners. So, no shims on the inside of the tires or atleast use the same amount on each side.

#2... This can be a very useful adjustment. What it does is add or take away preload on the front springs. Meaning if the car is alittle tight going into the corner take a shim off the right front and if it's lose coming off the corner add a shim to the left front and viseversa. The way I do it is... I always run close to the same left rear wieght on the car and when I'm happy with the springs and oils I use this adjustment for changing track conditions threw the day.

#3...Caster is another fine tune adjustment, the more caster you run the more stable your car will be down the straights, But will affect how your car enters the corners. I suggest if your have problems with your car, Leave your caster at 2 to 21/2 degrees on the right front and 1 to 11/2 degrees on the left and work else where on your car. when you get your car close to how you want it use this ajustment to fine tune your setup.

#4... Stiffer or softer front springs tighten or lossen the car. Right front affecting entering the corner, Left front exiting the corner.

#5...Moveing the center shock up and down on the mount will effect how your car enters the corner, But you will see the biggest difference in forward bite coming out of the corner. Raising the center shock takes away forward bite and lowering it adds forward bite. I'm not a big fan of raising the center shock, Althuogh I've seen cars with it raised that worked good, I've always had better luck with it From the center down.

#6... Changing the tension on the center spring changes the preload on the spring which in turn changes the droop on the rear pod. This is a adjustment I use alot. Like I said before I run close the the same left rear wieght on my car so I use this adjustment if I'm tight or loose. The way I've always done it is, Before I set my left rear wieght I'll take a small level ( like the one on Tom's tweak boards for leveling up the board) and place it on the rear pod. I adjust the center spring until it reads level and then I'll set my tweak. If the cars alittle loose when I put it on the track I'll put alittle droop in the car. The way you do This is loosen the center spring. I like to run my car level or with alittle droop so if the car is alittle tight I'll just take little wedge out. The most important thing to remember is to start all of this from something that you know is level.(like a tweak board)

#7...Moving the tray forward tightens the car up. Moving it rear loosens the car.

#8...Starting with a car that's straight up pod straight up t-plate every adjustment you make with offsetting something will tighten the car, and adding forward bite off the corner. Meaning offset pod straight up t-plate will tighten the car adding forward bite off the corner and going offset, offset adds more.

#9... Raising the side shock makes the car think the spring is softer. Lowering the side shock makes the car think it's stiffer.

#10... Changes cross weights. Tightens or loosens the car

#11...There's lot to this, The next time I see you I'll try to explain shock oils and spring combos.

#12 and #13... adding shims to the right rear adds steering into the turn, removing shims takes steering away into the turns. Adding shims to the left rear takes steering away coming out of the turns, removing shims add steering coming out of the turns

THESE ANWERS CAME FROM JERRY PARROT WHICH IS THE GUY I MENTIONED IN MY POST ABOVE..

THANKS AGAIN JERRY
 

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Being very new to oval this is great info. My question is this; how much movement are we talking? What size spaces are used on the axle to start making a difference?
Where you mentioned that you were 'very new' to this,
I would add one comment.
and believe me, it's not a slam.
Unless you are extraordinary, you won't feel .020" spacing changes
on your rear axle.
I've seen guys like Racin' Steve run plenty of times, and if you
had a Sharpie glued to the rear of his car, after a 4 minute run
there would be a 1 inch wide mark on the track.
THAT is what you need to accomplish before you can feel .020"....
Just my opinion, of course.
(But I'm right)
The guys at that level can feel those changes, because of
consistency.
I've seen guys try all sorts of things, and buy every trinket they could
to get faster, that couldn't put two consecutive laps together to save
their lives.
The reason is, those small changes are more than counter reacted,
by missing the corner entry or exit, or cranking the wheel too hard
to compensate for either.
 

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Where you mentioned that you were 'very new' to this,
I would add one comment.
and believe me, it's not a slam.
Unless you are extraordinary, you won't feel .020" spacing changes
on your rear axle.
I've seen guys like Racin' Steve run plenty of times, and if you
had a Sharpie glued to the rear of his car, after a 4 minute run
there would be a 1 inch wide mark on the track.
THAT is what you need to accomplish before you can feel .020"....
Just my opinion, of course.
(But I'm right)
The guys at that level can feel those changes, because of
consistency.
I've seen guys try all sorts of things, and buy every trinket they could
to get faster, that couldn't put two consecutive laps together to save
their lives.
The reason is, those small changes are more than counter reacted,
by missing the corner entry or exit, or cranking the wheel too hard
to compensate for either.
Agreed 100%. While I say I'm new to this, I'm speaking of oval. I've been running onroad for a little while and the same holds true there.

Regardless, I love learning what each minute setting change does (I drive the guys I race with crazy with a million questions); that way as my driveline improves I can improve the handling of the car.

Understanding how to properly set up a car (be it oval, onroad, or offroad) is never a bad thing no matter how fresh someone is at racing; as long as they continue to focus primarily on driving skills and don't blame the car.
 

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.... as long as they continue to focus primarily on driving skills and don't blame the car.
I like your attitude. :thumbsup:

Most of the guys that are REALLY good, will usually downplay the
driving aspect, and contribute their success to 'the car'.
I appreciate their modesty, but I've seen really good guys take a real brick,
and after a few laps of struggling with the P.O.S. make the thing
look like a winner.
My hat goes off to the guys that can go to any big race, anywhere,
and do well. It isn't 'just' car... don't let them $hit you.
 
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