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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think that I might be losing it a little. It’s been over two months and I haven’t been able to race. My trigger finger has been having spasms, and I’ve just about worn out the screw holes on my truck.

With this much time on my hands I better get after those bearings. The easiest to access are the front wheel bearings. Pop them out and brush the visible dirt off. Here is where it gets a little tricky. Some of the bearings have Teflon seals on one side and metal seals on the other, some have both metal seals, while some have Teflon on both sides. There is a ‘keeper’ ring on both sides to keep the seals in place. There is a small opening between the ends of this ring and that is where you can start the process. Don’t panic this is a little intimidating but after a couple of times it will get easier. The ring can be removed with a very new and sharp # 11 Exacto blade in the knife and a lot of patience. One of the rituals that seem to take place every time I put a new blade in my knife is getting poked right off the bat. Get that over with so we can continue.

Anyway watch that the retainer ring doesn’t vanish into thin air. I have kept some from bearings that went south in a drawer in my parts cabinet... just in case.

Now carefully remove the seal and then do the other side. After both seals are out you can clean the bearing thoroughly. I have a nylon tapered 'thing' that I use but you can use anything that will hold the bearing and allow it to spin freely, I have even use a pencil. Spray it out with motor spray, until it spins very free. Now you can re-lube the bearing with your choice of lubes. When I was oval racing, I used "Mobil 1" synthetic motor oil, and it worked real well, but in my nitro racing truck I use some stuff called “Ronnie Grease”. It is from Ron Paris Racing and they use it for an assembly grease for nitro engines. I get some on the point of my hobby knife and get a little dab down into the bearings and make sure that it gets on the balls and work it in by hand. The bearing won’t spin freely like with oil, but with a nitro rig, the important thing is to keep the lube on the balls, and this stuff really works. I have even taken clutch bearings apart and used it in them. It doesn’t sling off the balls like other stuff does. Replace the seals and the retainer rings; check the ring very carefully to see that it is fully seated in place, and reinstall, and we are ready to go... a bunch more times.

Is it still raining?

Have fun and be careful with that new blade.

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