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I know you don't put locktite on things like wheel nuts and gears but are there any other screws that should never get locked in? I was told to use blue loctite so they can be removed later but just wanted to see if anybody else had suggestions.
 

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R/C Nut
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be careful Noy to use loctite on anything plastic.the loctite eats plastic and will crack it.If you need to loctite some plastic parts use Tamiya it is safe
 

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I don't use thread lock much these days and if I do I use it sparingly. It works great for sealing chassis, lol. I prefer to check screws often as to have them get bonded into aluminum bulkheads just to end up stripping the screw trying to remove it. I still use blue Loctite when I build cvds..

Also they do make a plastic thread lock (Loctite 425) but it is expensive. I wouldn't recommend the use of any other tread lock on plastic parts.
 

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You didn't say what vehicle you are running. With Nitro, you use blue or green loctite on any metal screw to metal part. The high frequency vibration of the Nitro motors work screws loose.
You don't need much for electric vehicles. But still not a bad idea with metal to metal. The only one I don't recommend is loctite on your motor screws for electric.
 

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Never use TL on sway bar set screws. It isn't needed. Instead put TL on the sway bar itself and it be locked on even if the set screw falls off.

Same goes for pinion gears on e buggies. Put a little TL inside the gear when you slide it on. The TL will lock the pinion on.

If you really want something to stick, use red Surelock.

Much like CAing tires, less is better. Wipe off excess, too much TL makes a weaker hold. Just a little works the strongest.

Pematex blu tastes the best, nice and sugary.
 

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Never use TL on sway bar set screws. It isn't needed. Instead put TL on the sway bar itself and it be locked on even if the set screw falls off.

Same goes for pinion gears on e buggies. Put a little TL inside the gear when you slide it on. The TL will lock the pinion on.

If you really want something to stick, use red Surelock.

Much like CAing tires, less is better. Wipe off excess, too much TL makes a weaker hold. Just a little works the strongest.

Pematex blu tastes the best, nice and sugary.
I have to disagree wit you on some points....
NEVER use red.... unless you want to use a torch to get it loose again.
Not a good practice to put it on your motor shaft. If you need to change pinions, you will have to pry it off. You would need to scrape or sand your motor shaft to get the next pinion on.
A small drop you your pinion screw and make sure it is flat on the flat of the shaft you should be good.
Putting it on the sway bar limits the true action of the sway bar. It need to pivot in it's mount to tranfer weight from side to side.

NEVER ingest chemicals like this.......
 

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I have to disagree wit you on some points....
NEVER use red.... unless you want to use a torch to get it loose again.
Not a good practice to put it on your motor shaft. If you need to change pinions, you will have to pry it off. You would need to scrape or sand your motor shaft to get the next pinion on.
A small drop you your pinion screw and make sure it is flat on the flat of the shaft you should be good.
Putting it on the sway bar limits the true action of the sway bar. It need to pivot in it's mount to tranfer weight from side to side.

NEVER ingest chemicals like this.......
.........maybe you misunderstand what I'm saying.

Pematex Red, or better yet Surelock, is used for things you never want falling off, but comes off nicely with a little heat from a lighter or soldering iron. Not for screws so much, but put a drop on your muffler support wire before you slide your muffler onto it and it'l hold nicely even if the setscrew backs out . Same for those little brake linkage sliders.

On my motors I put a very tiny amount of Permatex blue on the pinion setscrew and a small drop inside the pinion, Not on the shaft. That way the shaft pushes the excess away from the motor instead of the pinion pushing it towards the motor bearing. A little brakeclean cleans off the old easy enough.

i see alot of racers with pinions falling off. Mine never deos. You will need a heat gun to warm the pinion to remove it and a small bit of force to gently pry at it with a screwdriver. Not really a big deal.

I didn't mean to put it on the Swaybar center at the pivot. But on the wire itsself under the swaybar endlink that is held to the wire with a setscrew much like motor pinion. (A AE Rc8 type end, or a Xray 808, or Mugen style swaybar end, not like a AE 1/10th style.) I don't even lock tight the setscrew. I used to have sway bar ends slide off the wire all the time until I was shown this.

Never use threadlock on any pivot point. And be especially careful with cvds.

Lets not forget about Permatex green. Which can be applied after a screw is tightened, It's a penetrating locker, and can be handy for settings you need to test on the track and lock later. (Like swaybar end length, or metal to metal rodends and rods.)

It also deosn't taste as good as blue. LOlz.
 
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