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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a Walbro carb rebuild kit # K22-HDA .
i intend to rebuild the carb on a Husky chainsaw for my pastor.
I'm pretty good at rebuilding Mikuni carbs on 2 stroke dirt bikes. BUT, I'd appreciate any tips before I tear into this Walbro!
Thanks in advance!

Tony P
Unionville, NC
 

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Go to the Walbro web site and there are some good downloads of IPLs and technical info from them. Don't soak the carb in any harsh chemicals, and don't spray any strong cleaners, like Berrymans B 12 or any other kind of carb & choke spray through the main nozzle, or you risk damaging the check valve. I use a brake cleaner spray for flushing out the passageways, as it is not as harsh. If this carb is all corroded from water, there is probably nothing left to fix. Likewise, if it has sat with fuel in it, the varnish and gum deposits may have already damaged the high speed check valve, and plugged some of the circuits beyond hope. But try it, all you will be out is a little time. Be sure to pressure test it to be sure the fuel pump side and inlet needle are holding, do not go over 10 PSI for this test. I can't remember what to set the metering lever at, if you can't find it on the web site, let me know and I will check my Walbro gauge to see if it is flush or below the edge of the carb body. Good Luck!
 

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i just rebuilt a hda carb lastnight for a homelite super 2 automatic oiling chainsaw , i have the tool kits for rebuilding walbro and zama carbs , those tool kits help alot , just don't over tighten the high and low mixture screws when trying to set the adjustment after rebuilding the carb
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The chainsaw actually runs pretty well. Fresh fue lis always used.
Problem is, the saw takes about 5 pulls to start, then runs fine. If you shut it down, and try to restart while hot, it is really hard to start. The owner, my pastor, paid good money to a local repair shop. They replaced the coil, sparkplug, and the fuel filter. with no improvement.
He asked me to rebuild the carb.

Thanks for all help!
Tony P
 

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You probably have all of the skill that you need to repair this carb. The small pop pressure gauge is an invaluable tool in checking any 2 cycle carb. If you have access to a test pump, then affix the pump tube to the fuel inlet line and pump until you observe the pressure stop building. This will be your pop pressure. Now watch the gauge as it bleeds down and check to see at what pressure the needle reseats. This pressure should be at least ten psi. If it is lower the fuel pump pressure is five to seven pounds and it may not allow the needle to reseat. This causes fuel to run into the engine until pump pressure bleeds of and gives you the exact hard start after shutdown that you have. Of course it could be something else, but this is as far as I know the most common fault.
I have worked on these carbs a good bit and they are fixable without the pump, the pump just makes it a lot easier.
I suggest that you clean the carb good and inspect the needle and seat carefully. Use a Qtip to swab the seat, but make sure you blow any cotton fuzz away afterwards with air. Install the new seat. then with the metering lever back in place. Look at the height of the lever tip. On MOST Walbro the top of lever is set level with the two carb body bosses on each side of it. Look at the meter lever height before you remove it if you haven't already done so Good luck, Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tom, and others, Thank you so much for the input, GOOD people on this board!
Tony Powers
Unionville, NC
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey guys, can I purchase a new or rebuilt Walbro carb for this Husky 254 chainsaw? I just cannot get it to run right.
A local shop tried to "fix" it too, but it still is not right.


tonyp884 said:
I purchased a Walbro carb rebuild kit # K22-HDA .
i intend to rebuild the carb on a Husky chainsaw for my pastor.
I'm pretty good at rebuilding Mikuni carbs on 2 stroke dirt bikes. BUT, I'd appreciate any tips before I tear into this Walbro!
Thanks in advance!

Tony P
Unionville, NC
 

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If you haven't done so I would suggest using the original metering arm as it will have the proper height adjustment. Those little fellas can be very touchy if you dont have the proper equipment for adjusting them. Have a good one. Geo
 
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