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Discussion Starter #1
Talk about a grail kit....Well it took a while for me to finally get my Moebius Proteus and I just placed my order at Cultman for the Voodoo light kit but what im still not sure of is the voltage its designed to run off of ....dose anyone have the voodoo effects kit?
Normally lighting a model is a breeze for me but there dose not seem to be a lot of room inside that light ring assembly and soldering surface mount leds is not in my skill set at all.

I did a search under Proteus but did not come up with much on the light kit from Voodoo FX.

Ideas, cautions and tech tips would be most helpful.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Silly me...under product info it says 9v. I blame 45 years of glue n paint fumes :freak:
 

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Please post your progress-build shots- I too have one of these grail kits and will be using the same lighting kit. With many projects I can cobble together my own lighting, but with the Proteus that ring light is so important to get right and a unit designed specifically for that is a must.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I agree. I wont be 'diving' into this one right away but i will post images .....I might just start with the light ring for something to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I looked into the PE set and Id rather add those details myself.
 
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I'm on the fence about the photoetch- if I got it I would no tuse all of it, but I do not want my build time to stretch into months either.
Sadly I do not get much time for working on models now and I find myself taking shortcuts to keep things moving...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Roger that.....even on work nights at times i use to build til one in the morning and was fine but those days are gone lol. I dont mind spending time on this one as for me this kit is definitely my dream / grail for certain.

Its been a while since i have watched the movie but im wondering if the chart plate is back lighted?
 

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I have the Voodoo light kit,if you can actually call it a kit.
Just some LEDs,resistors and such. The dome ring is lit using nano LED strjp.
No need to solder individual SMD's.
 

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That dome ring is pretty much the only part that I would get this kit for- like the fusion core lighting on the J2 it is an essential part of the look and very difficult to fab up myself. I have soldered up radios before (some wonderful Radio Shack kits back then), but I am sixty now and am painfully aware of my limitations...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Richard! :wave: Same here after opening my Voodoo kit the nano led strip is all that i will be using. Last night I did some parts fitting and decided that im going to mount and run the power wires a little different. I'll post pics soon.
 

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Looking forward to seeing your build up photos- I still have a Zvezda ISD in drydock but I can hear that Proteus yelling at me from the closet of doom for me to get busy with it...

I have a bunch of ultra tiny LEDs (size of a grain of salt) I plan on using. The rear service cabin will be visible through the aft windows and I really want to do it right. I have been waiting for a good styrene kit for many years and I do not want to short change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Same here! Other than a good size Nautilus in Styrene this is definitely a big grail kit for me.
Figuring out how to run the wire will be kinda tricky whenever you have a main top and bottom sections, maybe ill come up with a mini male female plug system.

Its good to see some of the old hobby talk folk still around .....remember the Polar Lights section and how goofy some of the post would go and yet still on track ?
 

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Things were also much more civil back then too-

I haven't even completely unboxed my kit yet- a lot of Moebius kits are almost impossible to put back in without it not fitting right.

I am watching your build and going to make some notes- I think both of us have a similar goal in mind and how you resolve your issues will be helpful when I take the plunge...
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Roger that. After some thought I may take an easy rout and not build up the Lab and use that area for wires and possibly a battery compartment with a very fine access door from below held in place by magnets. Just a thought right now. I like to build where the power source is inside when I can that way no power pack and unsightly tethered wires are needed.
 

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Hi Richard! <a href="http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/images/smilies/wave.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" >:)</a> Same here after opening my Voodoo kit the nano led strip is all that i will be using. Last night I did some parts fitting and decided that im going to mount and run the power wires a little different. I'll post pics soon.
I do things a bit different at times also. It depends on the build. When I bulit the Space Pod using the Voodoo kit I didn't want to mount the chase board from the top and have it show on the inside or build a false floor. I ended up mounting it from the underside and didn't have to cut the floor. I also used magnet wire from the pod to the wall wart wires using a rock to hide them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Sounds like you nailed it... do you have a vidi or images of your Pod?

Im going to frost both the inside and outside of the stock light ring clear part using 1000 grit as just doing so on the outside you can still see the leds and the resistors plus thats what it looks like in the film ....not completly clear, I may go to 800 inside and 1000 on the outside.

I got lucky ...i found my dvd copy of the film at a thrift shop for .99 in excellent condition.

Now i need to make a slightly larger air booth ....but its worth it!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Early. Light test.

Now i can not go any further untill i get word back from Voodoo Fx ...I asked if i can cut one led off one end of the strip and an led plus one resistor off the other end...doing so would make the strip fit perfectly around the inner ring piece and allow me to solder two fine wires that will run through a much smaller hole than what they recommend.

Im assuming that may drop the needed voltage ....but we'll see.
 

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I doubt you will be able to cut the tape. I have tried before and it wouldn't light.Maybe you can cut a slot and run the excess behind the ring. I am not sure if it would show on the inside. If not then just paint over the LED that isn't needed.
 
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