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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I decided to finally get to the lighting, I have lit the back and sides of the ship. This is just a test, I haven't added the shuttle bay clear pieces yet, and I will probably not use that yellow LED by the bridge. I have not glued anything yet, just taped. I remember in the Wrath of Kahn that the bridge was lit with a red light, I am not sure if I will do that, because it doesn't look quite right. I think I will stick to white. I can't seem to get the white LEDs to fit further up in the saucer because they are to big, how exactly do you change the angle and so forth?









There are some light leaks i will need to fix.
 

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For interior lighting of the windows you could get more bang for your buck on LEDs if your photons bounced around in a white painted interior surface over the black opaque coating.


DLM
 

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What size LED's are you using? It looks like they are 5mm. I would recommend 3mm for the bridge strobe and other anti-collision lights. I use 3mm and still have to drill out my holes a little. 3mm works for me.
 
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I do belive that's going to end up looking rather pretty once done.
Nice work there Fierce, you keep going!
 

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From what I've heard from the experts on this board and others, metallic paints offer a more opaque coating than black. Silver would also provide more reflectivity.

Looking really great so far. Look forward to more progress shots from you. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Instead of painting the inside metallic, or using foil tape, I just ate as many pop tarts as I could (lol) and used the mylar for the reflective surface. I got this idea from Tim Roy who also built the Reliant. Mylar really reflects light and it worked really well for me. I used micro 12v bulbs to light the saucer windows, because I could not find any small LEDs (probably could have online..didn't check) I probably have 12 LEDs not including the 5 bulbs to light the whole dish. White LEDs are inserted in the bridge and upper bridge. I have not assembled everything yet and I have not added all the decals. I also haven't finished the Aztec on everything yet. I will need to definently putty up the bridge section, tons of light leaks there. I will post more once I am done with the lighting. Thanks Perfesser. *I'll try to get some better and more clear pics.

Note: Studio model above​

 

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That's very nice work on the Reliant. Your paneling pattern and color choices look quite correct. My comment is on the last photo, top view. Your decal is obvious. Did you apply a gloss finish before the decals? Did you use any decal setting solution? It would be worth your time, given your fine efforts in all other respects, to pull the decals off (use some low-tack masking tape), get new ones, and use a better method for applying the decals.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks fly n hi

Roguepink said:
That's very nice work on the Reliant. Your paneling pattern and color choices look quite correct. My comment is on the last photo, top view. Your decal is obvious. Did you apply a gloss finish before the decals? Did you use any decal setting solution? It would be worth your time, given your fine efforts in all other respects, to pull the decals off (use some low-tack masking tape), get new ones, and use a better method for applying the decals.
Thanks Roguepink, I have noticed that as well. I was going to apply a gloss over the decals, would that look wierd though? I have never been that great at making decals look good. Your right I probably should have applied a gloss coat before applying some of them. I have only applied 3 of them, so I guess I could take those off. Do you know where you can get the accurate USS Reliant decals? Thanks for letting me know, now that you say that this, I see what you mean. Where do you get this decal setting solution? Also is there any place besides online where you can get some decal paper?
 

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Sandwich your decals:

GLOSS
DECAL
GLOSS

Use Micro-Sol while putting the decal on and let it dry thoroughly before the top layer of gloss. On top of that you can apply a coat of flat or semi-gloss to reach the final sheen you desire.

After I finish puttying, sanding, and priming (several times?) my order for painting and decaling is:

1. Base coat

2. Detail colors and patterns

3. Washes and shading effects (in moderation on a small scale, relatively clean ship)

4. Highlights and weathering

5. Damage details if any

6. Gloss coat

7. Decals using Micro-Sol

8. Gloss coat

9. Flat or semi-gloss for final sheen
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks for the tip PerfesserCoffee, I was unsure how applying the decals worked. So I should take that one of and lay a gloss coat put all the decals on and then apply a flat coat. Or two gloss coats?
 

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Always sandwich the decal with a gloss coat underneath the decal and a gloss coat on top of the decal.

You can always flatten the gloss coat on top of the decal by applying a coat of dullcote or something similar over the top layer of gloss.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright will do. Thanks for the information perfessercoffee. I was clueless as you can see.

project will be done fairly soon--I will post more pictures when its finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Its verrrry coldaa....in space.

I recently got some bondo and will putty some areas up and sand them. I also still have a bit of aztecing left on the rollbar etc. As far as the lighting, it will have to stay the way it is with the 5 micro bulbs (in saucer) I have already sealed it up. On the next build I will use all white leds for the lighting (now that I know where to get them | | small ones). I also got some clear gloss which I will sandwhich the decals with. Update will be coming soon. Again, thanks for the comments guys.
 
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