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Discussion Starter #81
The front end where the lifeboat is has a gap I will need to clamp when I go to glue it. It was the same on the other side:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Test Fit and Light Check
by Steve J, on Flickr

Rubber bands hold the hull together for a test fit. All wires tucked in without a hitch. I thought there might be a dead zone in the middle but that apparently was not the case. I think the light bounce off the white interior from having the hull together may have taken care of that. I also painted all the black, green, and red wires white so that may have contributed:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Test Fit and Light Check
by Steve J, on Flickr

More soldering and the upper saucer is electrically connected to the lower saucer half:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- A Tale of Two Halves
by Steve J, on Flickr

I didn’t notice it before gluing the halves together but the red flasher was barely lighting up in the upper half. The green flasher wasn’t much better. On the ventral side though the red and green flashers are a bit brighter, enough to be seen. All are over fiber.
So it appears, I have a ship true to Nemesis with it’s CG Ent E which had running lights that either did not flash, only flashed occasionally, or sometimes just glowed all in the same movie!
So mine will flash below and, on top, they may either be off or I may paint them with fluorescent red and green for the always on look...
Either way it’s canon since we saw it onscreen!

😀😂



USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Connecting the Halves
by Steve J, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #82 (Edited)
The spine plate that sits in front of shuttle bay 1 had to be cut off after I forgot and glued it onto the secondary hull before assembling and attaching the saucer hull halves rather than after. 🤬
After cutting it loose with a scribe and photo-etch saw I put it back into place and glued it onto the spine again. 🤗
What a job that was!


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Main Assembly Done
by Steve J, on Flickr

I drilled out another row of windows in a shallow trench in front of what I think are the ports for the auxiliary deflector array in the deeper trench. Or maybe these windows I drilled today are the auxiliary deflector. Either way these ports were not molded into the kit plastic so I had to eyeball it more or less. I need to figure out how to narrow them and stagger their spacing better, I only knew they existed after looking at images and screen caps of the forward ventral saucer that showed another long row of ports in a depression between the forward saucer rim and the ports in the big lit up trench. I could have left them un-drilled I suppose but I’m becoming more of a screen accurate fan as I get older so wanted something closer to what we see on screen:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Main Assembly Done
by Steve J, on Flickr

Can’t say this is my favorite Enterprise ship design but it really has grown on me since starting this build. It does have some nice angles and you couldn’t look faster just sitting still with those sleek lines. I’d rate it number three after the TOS and Refit Enterprises:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Main Assembly Done
by Steve J, on Flickr

Now I need to work on the smooth dorsal transition from the saucer into the spine of the secondary hull that was new for Nemesis. Also need to make the single photon torpedo launcher above the shuttle bay and a small one at the aft end of the engineering hull just below the fantail. Then will mask before priming,
 

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Staying up kinda late on this one huh? ;-)
Incredible Steve!
How do you plan to fill in the windows?
Krystal Clear?
-Jim G.G.
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
How do you plan to fill in the windows?
Krystal Clear?
-Jim G.G.
Probably. I’ve not used Krystal Klear before but I think I do have a bottle of it from years ago and it should fill the openings well with these small 1/1400 scale windows. Hopefully it’s still usable.
In the past I’ve filled windows with jeweler‘s epoxy resin or dental acrylic, both toxic and messy, and filling the windows really needs to be done from the inside with a good sticky tape on the outside as the resin will eat your paint If it leaks thru.
Now, if the model is unpainted, you can try filling from the outside with some kind of clear tape on the inside. Then once it’s dry you can clean any residue off with acetone and/or sandpaper before priming and painting.
Of course, either way you still have to mask each window before painting, assuming you are spraying the paint.
So this might be a good time to use something like KK or... I might get ambitiously insane and cut pieces of clear styrene to fit each window. That’s what I did for my USS Saratoga build and it worked well, especially if you make the inserts thick enough to extend into the model far enough to catch the light from the LEDS.
The Saratoga had a LOT less windows than this beast though.
Still, the KK is nice because you can do it at the end after your final paint is on without having to mask the windows.
And you can wipe off any excess with water.

Decisions... decisions. 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Thank you for providing us with your daily dose of "E".
My pleasure!

Here are the last of the Nemesis modifications...

Easy to miss this stern photorp port but I saw it referenced on a drawing detailing proposed additions to the ship’s weaponry for Nemesis. One of the easier mods to make from scratch for this build,
As you can see there will be some more cleanup to do:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Stern Shuttle Bay Ventral Torpedo Tube
by Steve J, on Flickr

This single port photorp launcher is made from styrene tubing and rod. It sits in a shallow trench atop the stern shuttle bay just forward of the beacon. Another mod to the original design made for Nemesis:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Dorsal Stern Shuttle Bay Photon Torpedo Launcher
by Steve J, on Flickr

Using AVES Apoxy putty I sculpted the smoother transition between the dorsal saucer and the secondary hull strongback. I decided to finish one side and let the putty cure overnight before tackling the other side. This modification made for Nemesis is a small difference but it helps the overall flow of the ship I think:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Strongback Transition Mods
by Steve J, on Flickr

I’ll finish the saucer/strongback transition on the starboard side then l’ll finish puttying some other spots before masking and priming.
 

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Steve, I'm really glad that you are keeping us updated on this build.
Thank you.
- Jim G.G.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Sorry for not posting in awhile. I got sidetracked with an issue I’m trying to fix concerning the starboard impulse engine dark grey primer grill paint flaking off the brass photo-etch when I stupidly tried to pluck off a tiny speck of putty that was stuck between the grills. Oops! There went the paint flaking off! ARRGGGH! I found it was impossible to repaint the grills now that they we’re glued to the clear plastic part. The grills are too closely spaced together to keep the paint from flowing in between and making a mess of the lighting effect... but... I think I’ve found a solution using the same primer paint sprayed on white decal paper and sealed with liquid decal film. It will require slicing the dark grey decal paper into extremely thin strips and applying them one at a time to each row of the grill. I’ll take some pics if it works.

Anyway, shifting gears, I determined the winglets on each side of the saucer shuttle bay doors were offline, they should lap over the edge of the strongback part and into the secondary hull. They were too wide too and needed to be more tapered so I carved, filed, and sanded the cured Apoxy Sculpt then added some more AVES, pulling and blending with fingers and sculpting tools to form an unbroken curve around the spinal plate atop the secondary hull:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Main Shuttle Bay Winglets Resculpted
by Steve J, on Flickr

I’m much happier with the smooth flow between the saucer and engineering hull now. Next I’ll brush some Mister Surfacer on:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Saucer Transition Zone Winglets Corrected
by Steve J, on Flickr

The slanted rectangle of white styrene above the stern shuttle bay doors (which will get a black window port when finished) was blended into the beacon platform above the shuttle bay with AVES to make one continuous platform:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Stern Shuttle Bay Control Room Blending
by Steve J, on Flickr

The upper saucer transition to secondary hull zone and spine was brushed with Mister Surfacer. It feels nice and smooth after all the sanding. AVES is so great for sculpting:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Brushing on Mister Surfacer 500
by Steve J, on Flickr

With the lights down I turned on the power and circled windows that glowed too brightly in pencil. These windows happened to be located above the LED strips inside the hull so they blew the scale effect, no ship would have cabins that glowed like the sun. Once I knew which windows were involved I filled them with AVES. They will become black windows when I’ve finished applying the Aztec decals:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Filling in Beaconing Windows
by Steve J, on Flickr

Next up... respraying the starboard impulse engine frame with metallic black. Then finish masking the upper nacelle milk jug panels, the deflector dish, the impulse engine vents (again), the nav and formation lights, And the upper saucer Raytheon floodlight. Then I think I’ll add the phaser strips I cast from jeweller’s resin to the trailing edges of the upper and lower surfaces of the nacelle struts. Then I’ll shoot her with grey followed by white primer before applying the main hull color. I may mask off the phaser strips first though.
 

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Lots and lots of work you're doing Steve! She's going to be beautiful. Can you please tell me again how and what you used to manage to glue down the photo etch without it oozing through the openings? Reason why I need to know is I will need to know this when it comes time for me to do the grills on my TOS Enterprise 1/350th.
Thanks in advance.
- Jim G.G.
 

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Sorry for not posting in awhile. I got sidetracked with an issue I’m trying to fix concerning the starboard impulse engine dark grey primer grill paint flaking off the brass photo-etch when I stupidly tried to pluck off a tiny speck of putty that was stuck between the grills. Oops! There went the paint flaking off! ARRGGGH! I found it was impossible to repaint the grills now that they we’re glued to the clear plastic part. The grills are too closely spaced together to keep the paint from flowing in between and making a mess of the lighting effect... but... I think I’ve found a solution using the same primer paint sprayed on white decal paper and sealed with liquid decal film. It will require slicing the dark grey decal paper into extremely thin strips and applying them one at a time to each row of the grill. I’ll take some pics if it works.

Anyway, shifting gears, I determined the winglets on each side of the saucer shuttle bay doors were offline, they should lap over the edge of the strongback part and into the secondary hull. They were too wide too and needed to be more tapered so I carved, filed, and sanded the cured Apoxy Sculpt then added some more AVES, pulling and blending with fingers and sculpting tools to form an unbroken curve around the spinal plate atop the secondary hull:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Main Shuttle Bay Winglets Resculpted
by Steve J, on Flickr

I’m much happier with the smooth flow between the saucer and engineering hull now. Next I’ll brush some Mister Surfacer on:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Saucer Transition Zone Winglets Corrected
by Steve J, on Flickr

The slanted rectangle of white styrene above the stern shuttle bay doors (which will get a black window port when finished) was blended into the beacon platform above the shuttle bay with AVES to make one continuous platform:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Stern Shuttle Bay Control Room Blending
by Steve J, on Flickr

The upper saucer transition to secondary hull zone and spine was brushed with Mister Surfacer. It feels nice and smooth after all the sanding. AVES is so great for sculpting:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Brushing on Mister Surfacer 500
by Steve J, on Flickr

With the lights down I turned on the power and circled windows that glowed too brightly in pencil. These windows happened to be located above the LED strips inside the hull so they blew the scale effect, no ship would have cabins that glowed like the sun. Once I knew which windows were involved I filled them with AVES. They will become black windows when I’ve finished applying the Aztec decals:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Filling in Beaconing Windows
by Steve J, on Flickr

Next up... respraying the starboard impulse engine frame with metallic black. Then finish masking the upper nacelle milk jug panels, the deflector dish, the impulse engine vents (again), the nav and formation lights, And the upper saucer Raytheon floodlight. Then I think I’ll add the phaser strips I cast from jeweller’s resin to the trailing edges of the upper and lower surfaces of the nacelle struts. Then I’ll shoot her with grey followed by white primer before applying the main hull color. I may mask off the phaser strips first though.
Incredible! You are doing God's work--er, well, maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much (y)
 
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Discussion Starter #92
Lots and lots of work you're doing Steve! She's going to be beautiful. Can you please tell me again how and what you used to manage to glue down the photo etch without it oozing through the openings? Reason why I need to know is I will need to know this when it comes time for me to do the grills on my TOS Enterprise 1/350th.
Thanks in advance.
- Jim G.G.
I used metal foil adhesive glue. Apply it SPARINGLY to the backside of the PE then let it set for a few minutes before positioning it on the clear kit part. Before that though you’ll want to paint the PE. I used a spray can of adhesion promoter then sprayed the etch with Krylon grey automotive primer. Still you need to be careful about removing any residual glue from between the etch grills as the paint can easily be scratched. Since the glue is water based you can use a microbrush dipped in warm water to clean up any excess. Just take it slow and you’ll be alright. A sharpened toothpick also works.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Greetings fellow modelers and model fans. I hope everyone is well during these trying times...

Back on May 15, I posted a photo of an assembled nacelle showing how it looked lit up. I had wanted to show some in progress photos of the inside of the nacelle showing how I wired the LEDs and created diffusers to give the warp engines a nice even glow. Unfortunately, I was not able to transfer the photos on my camera at that time due to a new company policy that blocked all employees from using thumb drives or loading images off cameras using my company provided laptop’s USB port. I could have done it over wi-fi but my camera doesn’t have that capability so there they sat locked inside my Canon EOS Rebel t1i until I could either get a new camera with wi-fi or get my own personal laptop.
Since then, I have been able to post images using photos taken on my iPad which I discovered has a very good camera. Then I, along with most of my department, got laid off from our jobs at AT&T. Being almost 63 and vested in my company pension plan I decided to take the severance payment and retire effective September 8, 2020 on my last day of employment.
Anyway, this means I will be losing my work laptop so... I FINALLY GOT MY OWN PERSONAL LAPTOP!
It’s got a 17.3” screen and more importantly, it has a read/write DVD/CD ROM drive; not easy to find in an off-the-shelf computer at COSTCO.
One of the first things I did was load it up with the Canon EOS utility software using the software CD That came with the camera. Then I plugged the camera and downloaded the images. So without further delay, here are the photos showing how the nacelle lighting effect was accomplished...

Milk jug plastic is trimmed to fit along the opening carved out on the top of the nacelles for the blue glowing grills. The diffusers will help eliminate LED hot spots from the blue LED strips underneath:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Nacelle Diffusers
by Steve J, on Flickr

This foam packing sheet will further diffuse the LED glow on the top of the nacelles:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Foam Packing Sheet
by Steve J, on Flickr

Here is a test with the LED strip lit up under the milk jug plastic panels but no folded layer of foam packing sheet in between:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Diffusion Test 1
by Steve J, on Flickr

With the foam packing material in between the milk jug panels and the LED strip virtually all hot spots have been eliminated:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Diffusers with Foam Packing Sheet Test 2
by Steve J, on Flickr

Two channels were carved out along the trailing edge of each nacelle, One groove will handle the two wires from the flashers at the aft end of the nacelles, the other will handle the wires connecting to the blue LED strip and the orange-red LEDs in the bussard dome:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Carving Out Wiring Channels
by Steve J, on Flickr

Three flat topped amber LEDs stacked and staggered as shown in cross sectional diagrams of the E bussards online. The clear plastic bussard inserts have been brushed with Tamiya transparent red acrylic on their inside surfaces:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Bussard LED Assembly
by Steve J, on Flickr

Bussard LED assembly light test. The three LEDs were connected in series using two 150 ohm resistors soldered together as I did not have a 330 ohm resistor:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-
by Steve J, on Flickr

A single cool white LED lights the upper and lower flashers using short lengths of bent fiber optic strand:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Aft Nacelle Flashers
by Steve J, on Flickr

The LED strip and bussards shown wired together and lighting up just fine. I'll add the foam diffuser sheet in between the strip and the diffuser panels before sealing the nacelles up:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Nacelle Light Check
by Steve J, on Flickr

Just one more thing to add to the bussard before gluing the nacelle halves together:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Bussard Detail Light Test
by Steve J, on Flickr

To diffuse the bussards I packed torn cotton ball material in between the LEDs and the nose of each nacell:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Cotton Added
by Steve J, on Flickr

The upper strut half will be glued to the lower strut half once the styrene cement gluing the nacelle together dries:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Nacelle Glued Together
by Steve J, on Flickr

The assembled warp nacelle all lit up:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Nacelle Lit
by Steve J, on Flickr

Thanks to all who have continued following this build. I hope you have enjoyed this journey back in time. We now take you back to your regularly scheduled programming. I’ll have some new pics shortly showing the E in her current state. Stay safe everyone!
 

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Sorry to hear about your forced retirement but glad you got to at least retire as well. Shortly, you will begin to wonder how you ever had time to go to work (and then why!)

Good to see the build progression as well.
 

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I really enjoy the breakdown explanations and pictures of builds like this.
although I don't build much like this, I am learning a lot that I can put towards other projects.
thank you for sharing
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Here are some new pics...

This is the phase called pointing up when you go over each centimeter of the hull looking for any stray paint, epoxy, or putty then cleaning them up before priming:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Ventral-Almost Ready for Primer
by Steve J, on Flickr

Looking pretty good:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Dorsal-Almost Ready for Primer
by Steve J, on Flickr

The trench got some additional puttying, filing and sanding. Special attention was payed to the corners at the top of the wall behind the dish. Scribing tools came in handy:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Deflector Trench Detailing
by Steve J, on Flickr

The aft running light (non-flashing) /control room window platform was filed and sanded to shape:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Stern Attention
by Steve J, on Flickr

Next I'll finish masking the running and navigation lights before shooting her with an overall primer coat.
 

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Really great build! I'm working on the same model at the moment. I see we're both using fiber optics for the blinkers. I'm wondering how you're gluing seams together like the ones around the nacelles without melting the fibers. I've tried a lot of things and have yet to be able to use styrene glue with out the fiber breaking. I've been reduced to using 2 part 10min epoxy on those areas which I find has a little give and definitely doesn't leave a completely gapless bond.
 
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