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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So while on vacation this past week I finally decided it was time to build the E.
I've had this model kit for a few decades I think.
Bought it at a Walgreens when they still carried plastic models; that, in itself, tells you how old this kit is.
:D
Anyway, this is the 1/1400 scale Star Trek Insurrection kit but I will be building it as the Nemesis version...

Box Art:

USS Enterprise E - AMT/Ertl Kit
by Steve J, on Flickr

Kit Decals. Ship registry, pennants, lifeboats, etc:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Kit Decals
by Steve J, on Flickr

I also bought two aftermarket sets of decals some years ago from STModeler and Acreation Models.
First I bought STModeler's then saw Acreation had come out with a set of aztec decals so I bought them too.

First up STModeler:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Decals STModeler
by Steve J, on Flickr


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Decals STModeler
by Steve J, on Flickr



USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Decals STModeler
by Steve J, on Flickr


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Decal Placement Guide
by Steve J, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Then we have Acreation...

Instruction guide:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Decals Acreation
by Steve J, on Flickr

Decals for the warp nacelles, impulse engine vents, and deflector dish.
And, of course, lots of escape pods:
USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Decals Acreation by Steve J, on Flickr

Closeup of deflector dish decal:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Decals Acreation
by Steve J, on Flickr

Closeup of impulse engine vents:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Decals Acreation
by Steve J, on Flickr

You get 4 pages of aztecs:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Acreation Aztec Decals
by Steve J, on Flickr

Upper saucer:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Acreation Decals Page 1
by Steve J, on Flickr

Lower Saucer:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Acreation Decals Page 2
by Steve J, on Flickr

Secondary hull and struts:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Acreation Decals Page 3
by Steve J, on Flickr

Warp nacelles:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Acreation Decals Page 4
by Steve J, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Decal placement guide:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Acreation Decals Placement Guide
by Steve J, on Flickr

Not shown is the Paragrafix brass photo-etch I bought mainly for the
deflector dish etch but we'll get around to that later on...

So... now to get started on plastic. First I took the parts out of the box. All there and accounted for:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Saucer Sections
by Steve J, on Flickr


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-More Parts
by Steve J, on Flickr

Just a wee bit of flash:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Flash
by Steve J, on Flickr

Like I did with my USS Saratoga, this ship will get the Raytheon Effect treatment...

Using a soft lead pencil I trace the shape of the upper saucer floodlight on the upper saucer exterior hull.
I'll cut a section of masking tape to the same shape and apply to the inside of the hull for
the Raytheon Effect:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Floodlight in Pencil
by Steve J, on Flickr

I used this CGI image off Modelermagic.com to get the shape of the upper saucer spotlight right:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-CGI
by Steve J, on Flickr

Did the same for the lower saucer:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Lower Floodlight in Pencil
by Steve J, on Flickr

CGI image:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-CGI
by Steve J, on Flickr

Next I applied Tamiya tape for the lower saucer floodlight. This is on the inside of the model:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Raytheon Effect Masking
by Steve J, on Flickr

Same for the upper saucer floodlight. Again, this is on the inside of the model:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Raytheon Effect Masking
by Steve J, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Holding the upper saucer hull up to the light so it shines thru the plastic allows me to
check the position of the masking tape on the inside:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Light Test
by Steve J, on Flickr

Same for the lower saucer hull:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Light Test
by Steve J, on Flickr

With RE masking done I primed the inner saucer halves with Duplicolor grey automotive primer:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Interior Priming
by Steve J, on Flickr

Once dry I'll spray with black before a coat of white for even light reflectance.

So that's all for the moment.
Next time I'll show how I fixed the inaccuracies of the deflector trench using my handy battery
powered hobby dremel, some styrene sheet and square rod, and AVES Apoxy sculpt.

Hope everyone out there is safe and sound during this scary time.
Thankfully, model building is a relatively solitary hobby so I'm able to cope with isolation better than most.
 

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Are those STModeler decals still available? It looks like you got a good copy of the ACreation decals... the last 2 sets I bought were more red than anything, which made them unuseable.
 

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WOW, Steve!
You really have your work "cut out" for you!
Looking great so far. What's your plan for the nacelles?
-Jim G.G.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What's your plan for the nacelles?
-Jim G.G.
Hmmmmmm... Light block first, then a coat of flat white.
For the Bussards... going to try laying some clear red styrene sheet underneath the clear kit parts. Might look pretty cool. As far as lighting goes... probably use some red LED’s ... think I have some in 2mm OD laying around. Three per Bussard or six per nacelle.
For the blue nacelles... going to experiment with blue LED strip diffused thru milk jug plastic.
I also have those Acreation decals which might look great backlit by the blue LED‘s. Might also try cotton balls for diffusion, I’ve heard others say that works too. Now that I have my homemade LED tester sorted out I can start experimenting. This is one of the fun parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Never heard of plasma packs but those Bussards do look great. The glow rods are interesting too. Seems to me you could make them yourself using blue LED’s and an acrylic rod sanded and/or sprayed with flat lacquer to give an even glow. Yes, Starling‘s stuff is inspirational alright. Still I do enjoy coming up with my own effects.
 

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Very nice! My FAVORITE !701!
Years ago I purchased a VERY expensive cast model of the E "E" and sent it off to a well known model maker (had his own model making shop) for a professional build.
"Life" got in the way and we lost touch, and a few years back when I tried to reach out to inquire about the E I never heard back and am very sorry I've lost that kit, and can't ever get it built.
I will enjoy watching your build!

Dave
 

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Sorry for your loss of the kit. Are they available on the 2ndary market still (or even more expensive now?) How about as a built kit?

👂
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update...

Finished the trench off with some brushed on Mister Surfacer:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Backside of Deflector Trench
by Steve J, on Flickr


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Finished Deflector Trench
by Steve J, on Flickr

Using a pinvise I drilled and filed out these slots in the ventral saucer indent. This represents the auxiliary deflector array according to an LCARS schematic I found online:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Aux Deflector Ports
by Steve J, on Flickr

You always need to go at these ports from outside and in with this relatively thick plastic. So cleanup is a big thing when I drill my ports:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Aux Deflector Ports from Inside
by Steve J, on Flickr

I gave the aux deflector array a few coats of thick primer to smooth over any imperfections during drilling and filing:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Mister Surfacer
by Steve J, on Flickr

Not bad. I'll do a little more work to make the slots more uniform before final hull coats:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Aux Deflector Array Light Test
by Steve J, on Flickr

Removed Tamiya tape and sanded clean the upper saucer floodlight shape for the Raytheon Effect:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Demasking Upper Saucer REffect
by Steve J, on Flickr

Once you put a bright cool white LED at the root of the flood inside it will shine thru for a very nice effect from outside I think:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Floodlight Effect After Demasking
by Steve J, on Flickr

Removed mask from inside lower saucer:

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Demasking Lower Saucer REffect by Steve J, on Flickr

Later on I realized I needed to include the small triangular areas even though they catch less light than the areas I had already made. You can see where they are missing in this image. Pie slices. So I went back and sanded the areas inside the hull to close the arc of illumination from the flood:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Floodlight Effect After Demasking
by Steve J, on Flickr

After sanding off the trench shoulder triangles to complete the arc of illumination (the trench on the outside is a hump on the inside) I like the effect much better than before:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Lower Saucer REffect Test
by Steve J, on Flickr

More to come with fun with aluminum tubing and power jacks/plugs.
Also more light blocking and white coats!

Stay tuned my fellow inmates!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
New update...

I'll use an aluminum tube for the display base with a plastic tubing insert (had to modify a larger diameter plastic tube hence the slice and section removed).
It will slide into the aluminum tube almost flush leaving a tiny air gap where the back end of the Size K DC power plug slides down into it.
The styrene tube is glued in with CA to help insulate the metal aluminum tube from the soldered positive and negative leads of the plug.
It's also better to glue the metal power plug into a plastic sleeve to avoid metal to metal contact:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Display Rod Parts
by Steve J, on Flickr

Now that I know it will fit l will shove it down further into the aluminum display tube before gluing with Plastic Surgery glue:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Insulating Sleeve Fitting
by Steve J, on Flickr

Just a test fit with the Size K power plug.
Once the white sleeve is slipped inside and glued into the tube it will make for a very sturdy connection point for the base:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Power Plug
by Steve J, on Flickr

Next I did a little work on the DC power jack inside the secondary hull...

I sliced off the end of the kit provided lower hull stand tube mount to accommodate a size K power jack.


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Internal Mount for Power Jack
by Steve J, on Flickr

Test fit slipping the power plug up from underneath into the power jack.
I had to glue on a thin styrene washer to shim it for a snugger fit:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Test Fit with Power Jack
by Steve J, on Flickr

That went pretty well. Next I went back and primed the secondary hull halves:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Secondary Hull Internal Priming
by Steve J, on Flickr

I use these for the light blocking and reflectance layers on the inner surface of the model:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Primers and Paint
by Steve J, on Flickr

Krylon flat white primer layed on directly over the Krylon satin black (black layer not shown here).
Only took a couple of coats:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Saucer Halves Sprayed White Inside
by Steve J, on Flickr

USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Krylon Flat White Primer by Steve J, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #18
As I started masking the nacelle halves for priming I did a test fit and realized I would need to remove the plastic on top of the grey nacelle halves for lighting.
Dumb ol' me thought the top of the nacelles were open for lighting already. Doh!
So I cut off the clear nacelle cover part from the clear sprue using a PE razor saw after which I sanded off any remaining sprue stub.
I learned a long time ago not to use sprue cutters on brittle clear plastic parts.
Now I can fit the clear cover in place on the top of nacelle and trace where the outer rim of the clear part is onto the gray plastic using a mechanical pencil.
Then I'll know where to cut:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Clear Parts Prep
by Steve J, on Flickr

The nacelle "cover" or whatever you call it that glows blue is fit to the nacelle.
A nice fit:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Test Fit Clear Part
by Steve J, on Flickr

A soft art pencil followed by a fine tipped mechanical pencil make a tracing around the edge of the clear cover onto the grey nacelle plastic.
Now I know to keep my material removal about 1/32" inside the mark leaving enough for the clear part to glue to:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Pencil Tracing
by Steve J, on Flickr

So next update I will be showing how the nacelles turned out after removing the pencil defined areas using either a hobby saw or most probably my dremel using a grinder bit.

As always, stay safe and happy modeling!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
New update...

Took about 10 minutes to put things back where they belonged on what had become a cluttered workbench,
an old drafting table.
Then I got out my Dremel with the grinder. It would soon be messy again,
covered by small bits of styrene popcorn peeling off the plastic from the hot grinder bit:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Bench Decluttering
by Steve J, on Flickr

The inner, darker pencil line is as far as I want to go. Just in case the line were to smudge I also went around and poked little holes using a pointy dental tool along the pencil line.
I initially thought to drill a hundred holes and cut the piece out with a saw but opted instead to hog out the tops of the nacelles using the grinder:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Grinder Guide
by Steve J, on Flickr

The line I want to end up with. I'll grind down close to it but leave enough to easily file and sand to the final contour:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- The Grinder
by Steve J, on Flickr

Plastic Popcorn. Not bad grinding IIDSSM. By the fourth nacelle half I could get one ground down close in under 15 minutes:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Plastic Popcorn
by Steve J, on Flickr

The sanding stick made quick work of the somewhat rougher surface left behind by the grinder. An exacto knife edge run along the cutout also helped to smoothen it further:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Sanding Stick
by Steve J, on Flickr

These sticks are spring loaded to accommodate different grit sanding belts. If your belt gets worn out or gunked up just squeeze the stick and rotate the belt to a fresh patch. Unsqueeze and continue sanding:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- The Detail Sander
by Steve J, on Flickr

Looking at the inside of the clear part against the now open nacelle top it appears I got it right.
No gaps from removing too much plastic. Should glue together well:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Nacelle Cover Test Fit Inside
by Steve J, on Flickr

A nice even edge all around. The pencil does not steer you wrong:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Nacelle Cover Test Fit Outside
by Steve J, on Flickr

I am very pleased with how the grinding and sanding went. Only took an hour. I have a nice smooth edge to glue the clear covers to. Plenty of room now for LED lighting:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Mating Halves Open
by Steve J, on Flickr

This should look great when lit. I have about three or four different ways I might light the engines. I have an Acreation deal for the blue lighting effect I'm seriously considering laying on the clear part. I think it would look great. Another option is to use the Paragrafix photo-etch warp grills. I remember them being a pain in the ass to attach on my USS Saratoga. The PE would require I sand off the molded lines from the clear kit part too. Ugh!:


USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Final Test Fit Clear cover
by Steve J, on Flickr

More to come with exciting stuff like...



Sorting out the nacelle strut wiring channels!

Stay tuned and stay safe!
 
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