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I was tinkering last night with my older Tyco cars, most are from the early to mid '80s. All the 440s have black frames, the X2s have either a black, or grey frame. All of my armatures are wound with red magnet wire, and have a wider gap between the segments than the newer Tyco cars, and later Mattel versions.

The first thing I did to each car was take the axles off and clean them, and the chassis. I polished the motor brush tubes with 1000 grit, replaced the guide pin, replaced the front axle assembly (new tires and rims, old ones had rotted). Next I removed the pinion and crown gear and repalced them. I re-fitted the cars with copper ski shoes. I wipe everything off with a little ethanol (everclear).

Last year I had taken the motors apart and cleaned the insides of the brush tubes, and replaced the brushes and springs, and cleaned the motor bulkheads, removed all lint, the polished the coms, lubed and re-assembled. So I did not mess with the motors last night as they were already cleaned.

Next, after re-assembling the car, but no rear axle, I place them on a 12 inch section of straight, connected to my 20 amp 0-30 volt variable power supply and set it to 8 volts, and let the car run while listening to the motor. I have a small piece of 1/16" dia. wood dowel shaped like a wedge at the tip, and 1000 grit paper glued on it. I use this to lightly touch the com while the motor is running, just enough to get the copper bright. You can hear the motor pick up RPM significantly during this step, some really wake up!

Lastly, I put in the rear axle assembly and double check the gear lash and clearances. I have some silicon grease I like to put on the crown and pinion, and I let them break in by running on the track with the rear of the car lifted just enough so the rear tires don't touch the track. After about 10 minutes, you can hear them get quieter, and smoother.

I have extra magnets from "dead" cars, but have no way of checking them for strength or matching them, but suspect I could get more out my cars by so doing, as some are much faster than others. I have no way of knowing how to tell if my traction magnets are reversed either.

The cars all have slip on silicon tires. I had to put bigger rims on the one 440 as it was bottoming out with the silicons I have.

We have the Tomy International Race Challenge track, 4- lanes, and run the Suzuka circuit as shown on the box. The Tycos, once tuned up, can give a Mega G or Super G+ a good run for the money, but the traction magnets are weaker, requiring you to drive more. That is offset by how fast they are, but that does not surprise me after seeing the crummy looking endbell and brushes on my Super G+ cars.
 

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Welcome to the forum Jay! Nice post. You inspired me to take a look at a few of my chassis. There is a Tuning section on this forum if you have some more insights to share. They'll be easier to find later on in there.
 

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...I have no way of knowing how to tell if my traction magnets are reversed either.
Most Tycos have straight polarity traction magnets, but if you have some that are reversed polarity.
How you can tell what side they go on is the bottom of the traction magnets will match up to the inside radius of the motor magnets.
Or the top of the traction magnets to the outside of the motor magnets.

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good post and welcome to ht!i like the tycos that i have.i am a bit afraid to tinker too much with modern cars however.do you need special tools like endbell tools and such to break down the inline cars?i have seen tools made for this but are they a luxury or a necessity?i also would like to get more out of my tycos,to smoke my afx purist buddies:p
 

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...do you need special tools like endbell tools and such to break down the inline cars?i have seen tools made for this but are they a luxury or a necessity?
For Tomy/AFX Super G+, Turbo and SRT you can use a cut off standard paperclip for an endbell tool.

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