Hobbyist Forums banner

1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is for all the model builders and and thing the do to build there models. If you have a way of filling spaces or anyway of sanding seams this will be the place to tell what you do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I'll start this off. When I build my models for most of the time I use Plastruct Plastic Weld which comes in a 2fl bottle and is a plastic solvent cement and I've used this since the 1980's. For me this is #1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
The main caution with Plastruct Plastic Weld (EMA in England) is it contains chloroform, which means it must be used in a WELL ventilated space, or it WILL knock you on your butt! Chloroform is an excellent plastic welding chemical; Martin Bower has been using it for years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As I live in a trailer (2br) I now have to work about that. Most of the time those bottles are covered, I only have them open when I'm using them. Otherwise I have only my jars with goo forming in them, sitting around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After I have made my goo, I use it to cover any seam that does not mate with other parts, and after it has turned hard I can then sand it down and after it have been sanded it can be painted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
As there are NO hobby shops in Rosamond there is nowhere to but anything else. So I make my goo but using Acetone and melting spear pat trees in it over night. That makes the goo after some 24 hours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This note to tell that I have been working on some drain pipes nothing has been done on any of
models or anthing else today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the pipes are almost done, it's been a heck of a job doing the pipes, hope fully all the epoxy will hold the pipes.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
718 Posts
Depending on the defect to be filled...

A) I try to avoid any seams when gluing... so I use Plastruct weld or one of the other "strong" solvent adhesives, if possible, applied with a syringe. If there's no seam needing to be filled, that's the best option.

http://www.plastruct.com/pages/CementGuide.html

Or, in my opinion an even better option, but harder to find, Ambroid Pro-Weld...

http://www.hobbymasters.com/ambroid-pro-weld-plastic-glue.aspx

B) If there are small features which need filling, I'll use Squadron putty. I normally use "Red" squadron putty (actually the putty is white, the label is red) for fixing surface flaws, and "green" squadron putty for filling gaps. No "scientific" reason for doing so... it's just sort of a habit I've gotten into.

http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SQ9060
http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SQ9050
http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SQ10705
http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SQ10205

(Squadron used to sell a "red" putty, which seems to have been replaced at some point with their white putty. Testors still sells a "red" putty, but the texture of it is pretty coarse, and thus I dislike it.)

C) For larger repairs, I use Milliput epoxy putty. There are multiple grades of this... I like the "white" putty, which is the most expensive but can, if done properly, provide a nearly porcelain-like finish... even better than the plastic it's adjacent to... and bonds VERY well.

http://www.milliput.com/home.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Whaddya mean, no hobby shops? There's Smith Bros. Hobby Center in Lancaster.
That may be so, BUT I am 13 miles north of Lancaster. Here in Rosamond there are the grate number of 0 hobby shops.I have to take a 3 hour bus ride to go to Smith Bros shop, so I have to make my own filler to work with. as it is I will have to take that long bus ride to get my bottles of glue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
I use Ambro Pro-Weld as well, but I think the secret it to get the parts trimmed and sanded beforehand so that when you put them together in a dry run, you see no space between the parts. The Pro-Weld 'melts' the parts together and any resulting seams can be easily trimmed or sanded away.

However, for older kits (like rebuilding old Aurora or PL repops) you'll need to do this and use a putty or other filler. For major gaps or where strength is necessary, I like the two-part J-B Stik, a steel-reinforced expoxy putty. The stuff even sets up under water, it's that strong and it also sands well. For other areas I like Bondo auto glazing and spot putty. It's pretty smooth and sands out nicely.

The best thing about the latter two is that you can get them in a Lowe's or Walmart in the event you don't have a hobby shop nearby (the nearest one to me in Dover, Del., is in New Castle, about a 40-minute trip.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the Plastruct Plastic Weld is what the hobby shop has, and I have been using it from the days that I built my first BSG model, and it still hangs in my living room of my trailer, and I fist built it when the T.V. show was on.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
718 Posts
NTRPRZ makes a good point...

It's actually a good idea to sand the surface where you intend to mate two parts, when using a solvent-based cement. The idea is to have the surfaces contact each other, so that (as he says) you can't see a gap... but to have tiny grooves which can allow capillary flow between the mating surfaces. I usually just lightly touch up mating surfaces with a medium grade sandpaper if I can, to provide this extra "tooth" for the solvent to distribute through.

Sometimes you can't do that, either due to the size/shape of the part, or due to fear of potentially marring areas outside of the target "bond area." But if it's possible, by all means, do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Most of the time I don't do that at all, there wave been some that I do a little sanding of the sides first but most of the time I just use my Plastruct to built with.
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Top