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Premium Member
2,145 Posts
Thanks for these tips Tom

In my car in S/S class....I use Flanged arm rear bushing metal....or plastic, plastic is lighter and preferred. I remove front bulk head bronze bushing and replace with plastic bushing. also you can use bronze bushing....but I use a 1/16 drill and make the whole just a hair larger.
i use a Gold end bell or just the replacement gold brushes......you need to tweak the brushes alittle.....hopefully you already do this...hard to explain....but I can try if needed. I cut a slot in small flat screw driver to tweak the brushes.

Before racing the car I put in on the breakin box at 3 volts for 1 hour. After breaking it in. I put the car on the Dyno and make sure that it reads 8 or higher on the meter. If so the car is ready to race.
I use 7-21, 7-22 gear ratio.....I like the gears from slottech the best and by them alrady mounted on the griptite axle & Tyco pinion works the best
I use spacers on the back of the axle gear to get proper mesh....I remove the stock large plastic spacer and throw them away ......... using the spacers on back side of gear only...saves weight. I cut off the nub on the end of pinion so it never hits the gear or axle....by moving the arm back an
forth. plus saves weight
I use a .011 pickupshoe spring on the passenger side and .010 on drivers side. use gold pickups and gold chassis tabs when possible.
I use 432 narrow tires and 338-340 fronts....make sure the front tires are just touching the track....also bent the bottom of the pickup shoe hangers at a 45 degree....it helps hold the shoe on.
Get your chassis pinned for the rear axle retainer.
Use G3 wide traction magnets in high down force mode
That is all I can think of off hand.
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