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Discussion Starter #22
deadie,

So far we have seven announced entrants. Six are HobbyTalkers, one is on the IPMS/USA Figures forum. Of course, you're also a correspondent at The Clubhouse. And I sent an invitation to the Black Swamp Modelers special interest group, of which Ark Undertaker and I are both members. Not a bad start!
 

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Laird of Dunans Castle
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deadie,

So far we have seven announced entrants. Six are HobbyTalkers, one is on the IPMS/USA Figures forum. Of course, you're also a correspondent at The Clubhouse. And I sent an invitation to the Black Swamp Modelers special interest group, of which Ark Undertaker and I are both members. Not a bad start!
Nice! Of course, since I started my less-than-illustrious building career here at HT, this is where I will be doing my posting.
 

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Laird of Dunans Castle
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Upon reflection (which, by the way, is NOT a word vampires like to hear ;) ), since I seem to be the only one from the CH that got in on this, I'll happily be your CH correspondent!
 

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I have all the sub assemblies glued together.

I started cleaning up the seams.



I had a small accident with his hand, I was distracted when I was clipping one half hand off the sprue.



Luckily it fixed easy.


A few thoughts so far,

The plastic is very thin, but molded well.
It cleans up nice so far.

The plastic seems brittle, harder than other styrene.

TenX and testors liquid have worked well so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
mach,

Thanks for the photos! Also, the heads-up about the styrene. FYI, deadmanincfan has been posting his progress over at The Clubhouse.

I haven't started the figure, yet. I'm working on a scratchbuilt diorama item. As soon as I have the thing put together, I'll post photos; WIPs would be meaningless at this stage, trust me.
 

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No new photo's

I'm cleaning up the seams. The kit did us a favor by having the suit re-enforcing band run along the outside leg seam, but the inside one is proving to be a pain. I used Testors liquid cement in the black angled bottle. I use extra and squeezed it so melted plastic would be forced out. I hoped that this could be sanded away and show no seam but the fit on mine was off a bit and I ended up with a ridge. I sanded and sanded and it helped, but I was getting concerned that I was thinning the plastic too much. I then added a layer of putty and sanded that. I think I have it now. Hopefully I can get a coat of primer on him today so I can see where I stand.

I think I'm going to pre shade the parts and put on a top coat of paint and then assemble him. I dont think I want to paint the straps on the body with his limbs attached.

It looks like the arm fit will be good, but the leg/body fit will have some issues.

I don't build figures, so if anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.
 

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I decided to glue Flash's legs on before priming. This might help with some of the fit issues.



They actually fit better with some glue, I only see 2 bad spots.
On his right leg on the inside and outside.

 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
mach,

I think you've handled the mismatch between the leg halves as well as could be expected. I prefer thinner liquid cements like Plastruct Plastic Weld or Tenax 7R over the Testors Liquid Cement, but whatever works for you is what's right. I will say that no single type of cement can do every job; I have epoxy, super glue, and good ol' tube glue handy in addition to liquid cement.

The only thing I would add is that it's usually best to do the most work earlier in any project to lessen the work later. For example, dry fitting and careful sanding to get the best fit between parts before assembly will reduce the time and effort needed to putty a bad fit later on. Worse still is having to correct an assembly problem after paint has been applied.

If you can make the joins of the arm assemblies to the torso look good, your strategy for painting those straps will probably work. Fortunately, the sleeves of almost every garment are sewn on as separate pieces. That means there will naturally be seams at those locations, both on a real garment and a plastic model.
 

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Nice going so far Mach - I haven't gotten past the opening of the box but I do know I'm going with a base different than the original.
Steve
 

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mach,

I think you've handled the mismatch between the leg halves as well as could be expected. I prefer thinner liquid cements like Plastruct Plastic Weld or Tenax 7R over the Testors Liquid Cement, but whatever works for you is what's right. I will say that no single type of cement can do every job; I have epoxy, super glue, and good ol' tube glue handy in addition to liquid cement.
I agree. Tenax is my go to glue for building. I was thinking that the thicker Testors liquid would help with filling the seams, and it did.

Over all its a well engineered kit for its time. Some thought went into him.

I still haven't decided what color to paint him.
 

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Flash's tool kit is hollow. When it's put on him you can see that it's hollow.
I did not like this, so I filled it with Aves sculpt. I think it looks better now.



I started painting some detail parts.

I also got a coat of white primer on Flash. I'm still not sure what color I'm going to paint him, I've actually thought
of covering him with bare metal foil, but I don't have enough on hand and it might prove impracticable.

His hands will probably stay blueish and I'm thinking white for the tanks unless I go with white for the suit.

 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks for the heads-up about the tool kit part, mach7. I didn't think anything of its being hollow, just figured that it would fit snugly enough against Flash's hip so the empty interior wouldn't be seen. I'll make sure to dig out my Aves and follow your example. BTW, the closed flap of the ray gun holster bugs me. I'm thinking of cutting it off the part and re-positioning the flap so it's partly open.

Today I picked up the telescoping brass tubes at my LHS for the large background element I'm building for this project. Coming down the home stretch on the thing. When it's in a recognizable form, I'll post photos of it.

I've also cut the kit parts from the sprues - with a sprue cutter, of course - and washed them in soap and water. I use Simple Green for this, it's a terrific degreaser to get all those oily residues from the manufacturing process off the parts. And Simple Green doesn't leave any residues of its own behind as dish washing detergents can.

Photos coming soon, in the meantime everybody have a great weekend!
 
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