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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Kind of in response to the other thread (without stealing the thread...), my JLTO cars that are the most fun for me to drive are the ones that I have replaced the pinion and crown gear with standard Aurora parts.
My son had a "Racing Party" at our house for his birthday. We used 4 cars.
2 were Aurora Tjets, one T/O width. One Fray/VHORS width. 2 were JL cars, both T/O width & slip on silicone tires. One had 9 tooth pinion (Aurora) and one had 14 tooth (stock) pinion. We ran IROC type races. All cars had pickups limited. The bodies were 2 Gran Sport Vettes, 1 JL 69 Mustang and 1 Nu-Rora Mustang.
None of the kids liked running the stock JL chassis.
All the kids liked the 9 tooth chassis no matter what the brand or width.
I have since changed the other JL chassis in this set to a 9 tooth pinion as well.
And sure, the car will lose speed in the straights with this conversion. But the cars are so much better to drive...
So for me:
  1. install round wheels and tires.
  2. limit the pick up shoe travel.
  3. put a 9 tooth gear in it.....
Of course, I don't have a super speedway with wide sweeping turns.
I have a small, tight track...
And the standard disclaimer. YMMV
Later..
Scott
 

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which gear

Scott, which gear do you replace? the gear on the axle? (isnt that the crown gear?) dont you then need to replace the little cluster gear that hangs down from the top plate?

or do you replace the gear (pinion?) attached to the armature shaft?

thanks
mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Whups! I'm a dork...

Ok, in my haste at work to post when I am supposed to be working I wasn't very clear :rolleyes: ...
When I was talking about the "pinion" gear I was refering to the gear that drives the axle gear (crown gear)...
I replace the 14 tooth gear under the gear plate with a gear shaft, 24 tooth driven gear and 9 tooth driven gear from an Aurora Tjet... (whew)
I also use a Tjet crown gear on the axle.
While this limits the top speed it also smooths the car out...
Scott
 

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thanks for clarifying that...

how difficult is that? i havent perfomred that particulary operation yet....

what tools do you need to press the shaft into the driven gear on the top plate?

thanks
mike
 

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Mike, the RTHO gear tool has the tool to press that on. If you don't have that tool, I highly recommend it. Next time we get together you can look at mine...
 

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Mike, the RTHO gear tool has the tool to press that on. If you don't have that tool, I highly recommend it. Next time we get together you can look at mine...
*note to self....turn down invites to marty's house to see his tool*


Sorry...couldnt resist :cool:
 

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Model Murdering
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mking said:
how difficult is that? i havent perfomred that particulary operation yet....

what tools do you need to press the shaft into the driven gear on the top plate?

thanks
mike
I thought I'd make an effort to remove Marty from the Whuppin' post, He's had enough tomatoes thrown at him. Mine included. :p

As Marty originally said, The modern press makes the operation childs play. RTHO's press is a first time every time unit.

In the stone age you popped them with the screw driver, and gently tapped them back together, using small punches and the LFH. It took a fair amount of skill to do and occasionally you'd kill one. Regardless of the method used, checking the final running clearance and binding is the important part. Anytime a brass gear was upset/or moved it had to be re-lapped/polished. They are soft. The modern press is accurate and gentle.

Like Scott, I prefer the short track gearing for the most part. It should be noted that slight changes in tire profile can subtly affect the final ratio.
If you've got a 14t rig thats too leggy/twitchy in the corners drop some profile before you change gearing. Like wise if you've got a 9t tire frying car that fades on the straight, go up some profile if there is room and see what happens.

Obviously the hotter the guts, the car can overcome over geared or profiled combinations up to a point. Although I never thought of it this way before, the trick is to find the setup that provides what the controller guys call linear accelleration that matches the cars performance capabilities and track design.

I noticed that Larry had an RTHO press at the last gathering, if your still fearful of Marty's tool. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Since we are back on post...
I also forgot to mention that you have to ream out the hole in the gear plate for the Aurora cluster shaft.... Seems that the JL shaft is a bit smaller in diameter...
Scott
 

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Woohoo, back on topic! Nice save Bill! :rolleyes:

I also have a device that will do the driven pinion made by JW and one by SCM, I can be a bit of a gear hog...

I have to say the RTHO is the best of the 3, they all work just fine, but the RTHO is the best IMHO.
 

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Model Murdering
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Dont mention it Bro, we were abusing ya pretty hard. :devil:

I agree! Rick's products are first rate.

OT: I wont make Portland. I've got the crud pretty bad, and refuse to share it. Good luck - shine up , rubber down. :thumbsup:

Bill
 

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Portland??? That race was last weekend, the next race with be at Steve Stauffers up in Bothell on the 21st of April. Let me know if you're interested in that one. My own schedule for a thrashing at my house may be out for April, but I want to do another one early in May if I can and you are on the invite list bud.
 

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Youza! See how farged up I am? I dont even know what the date is. Couldnt have anything to do with the Nyquil! Could it? Duh zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
 

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noddaz said:
Since we are back on post...
I also forgot to mention that you have to ream out the hole in the gear plate for the Aurora cluster shaft.... Seems that the JL shaft is a bit smaller in diameter...
Scott
Now theres hole reaming.........great, Hanks going to suspend everyone now.
 
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