Hobbyist Forums banner

The first of several large orders.

1726 Views 18 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Pete McKay
Placed an order from BRS this evening for half a dozen Ninco Rally cars, and I noticed something about one of them. The "Imola" Subaru lists on his website with ball bearings and the NC-6 motor, if that's so this car will be one of the hottest in my collection. Not the hottest mind you, but will be one of the hottest. Between Yoshi and myself we have ordered a dozen cars, I have 3 in my possession now, he has another 5, this makes 20 cars available to the guys in the club. A few of those guys already have their own cars, those that don't will be able to buy these from us at what we paid for them, and we will have a decent supply of loaners as usual. The Imola Subaru I think will stay in my possession. We've bought a few used cars too that will be given to a couple of the younger kids that always show up when the garage door is open and the cars are racing...after, of course, they wash my truck.

The next order I place will be for tune up and replacement parts. I'm already picking the brains of several racers about the Ninco ProShock and ProRace parts, this time there is a complete and total sharing of tech tips between my son-in-law and myself and the rest of the guys. My personal car will be a Citreon C4 (Red Bull) and it will have as many upgrades as I can manage to get past the rules makers. Right now the only real rule has to do with magnets, and we're allowing stock magnets only so long as they draw less than 300 grams on the magnet marshall. That means the NC-6 motor, ball bearings and 30T crown gears will be finding their way into both my team cars.

Our first event will be September 6th.
1 - 7 of 19 Posts
SWEET Pete! BRS/Brain won't steer you wrong and the NINCO cars are always solid racers! Definitely post up pics when you have everything setup and cars ready to race!

Now, this is just my personal opinion, so take it for whatever its worth.......

I think you are doing good race testing, but. I think that what you will find in the end is that the NINCO and SCX cars are going to be the best. The Carrera's are just dead weight and are maybe a step up from AutoArt cars. The AutoArt cars - well, just as their name suggest, they are great art that are perfect for putting on the shelf for display. Don't get me wrong, you can spend some tuning and tweaking hours getting those cars up to the specs of an SCX or *maybe* a NINCO, but out of the box, NINCO and SCX will beat those Carrera's and AutoArt's hands down.

Sounds like you are definitely going to have a GREAT racing program Pete! Looking forward to the first race report!

Yoshi - interesting on the AutoArts. Honestly, they used to be the dogs of the 1/32 world and you could hardly get anyone to buy one, let alone race one mainly due to the fact of how little attention was paid to the mechanics of the chassis and car for racing and how much attention was paid to the details. GREAT lookers, horrible racers as we used to say. Maybe things have changed - which would be a good thing for AutoArt.

The Carrera's were just dead weight. Heaviest cars around and yes, poor magnet placement as well as the tires were great for looking at, but you had to chunk them if you planned to race them. Sounds like you have a good one if it is performing that well. I've had two - one is a shelf-queen of a '67 Corvette (aside from the '63, one of my favorites) - and the other was a 575 Ferrari GT racer. Heaviest and slowest car without magnets.

And now that I'm thinking of it, that might be where things change drastically for the cars. Right now, you guys are running with magnets and that might be optimal for the cars. But as soon as you yank the magnets, all bets might be off. Each car may handle, run, and perform totally different and you may need to introduce weights and weight limits to balance the car for non-magnet racing.

Definitely let us know how the cars work out over the course of the races!

See less See more
AH! Well then that makes a TON of sense why Yoshi thinks the AutoArt's are great! ProRacing parts will make a turd seem like a racer. LOL!! Magnet racing will heavily depend on the magnet traction, first, and then the tires. So I'm sure you will be experimenting with tires and magnets till you remove the magnets. Then it will be weights and tires with heavy tires focus.

300 grams should be WAY more than enough. 200 is probably more reasonable, depending on how heavy the car is. You will be surprised when you get to sans magnet racing - strategically placed weight on the chassis is more than just piling up the weight.

Have fun!
I think you guys will get more of a following for this seeing that the X-Games (original reason this all started for you guys) has a rally car segment. To me, it's almost like drag racing, but yet using a street format vs. straight-line, heads up racing. I wonder if you could adopt some of the concepts of bracket racing and what not too? Just another idea of changing things up.

Regarding the weight factor, that seems about right. I'm looking over our local clubs rules and the heaviest car (the old NASCAR, prior to the CoT) had a weight limit of no more than 120 grams and no less than 110 grams, sans magnets. If you use the 300 grams total down force measured on a magnet marshal, 120 grams is exactly 40% of the maximum 300 grams. To give you any idea, that NASCAR, as I recall, was just under the 110 gram weight, box stock without a magnet, which means you only had about 10 grams to play with on the car. Sounds like very little, but believe me, it was plenty!

Some other things that they implemented: weight must be applied inside or underneath the main body of the car and not on aerodynamic surfaces. And weight can only be visible from underneath the car and barely, if at all, visible from the side of the car. Here are some other things that we could do to the cars:

- You may re-paint it.
- You may add weight.
- You may glue the engine to the chassis.
- You may glue the wheels to the axle.
- You may glue the tires to the wheel.
- You may glue the gears to the motor shaft and axle.
- You may glue any loose body, chassis or detail parts.
- You may lubricate any moving parts.
- You may true the tires.
- You may repair damage in such a way as to restore original function and not improve it.
Just some additional stuff to help you think about the future as you get into your first race. ;-)

See less See more
Sounds like you had some fun Pete! That is awesome! And that is cool that those little rallies can catch some air like that. I bet having the 4WD helps to pull that front end and keep it in the slot, just as much as the magnet.

Magnet placement on a chassis is definitely VERY specific to the manufacturer. If you don't place it where they intended then your handling and performance are all off. Now changing it to increase or decrease down force might help, but where to place them is so specific. Most of them try to keep it in the centerline, down the length of the car, to pick up the track.

Glad you had fun with the encyclopedias! LOL!

You probably don't need that screamin' NC-6, but the ball bearings would have been nice. Eh, as you said, some cars do great on the plastic delrins.

I've personally never heard of the STP trick. Most people just replace the belt with a better one or the ProRace one, like you said. I'd definitely watch to see if he does it.

Suspension on a car, regardless of type, is always interesting. I've seen it help and I've seen it hurt performance and capabilities. The only way to know is to test each car out and tune it according to each track you race. I've had some that I did not have to touch coming straight out of the box and I've had others that I just locked it all down.

Glad you are liking the cars you got Pete! Keep up the practice and you will be getting some podium finishes soon enough!

1 - 7 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.