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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was wondering if anyone has done testing lap times ect with the stock gray rotor and black upgrade rotor and sintered.

Jake
 

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They all perform exactly the same. The sintered rotor's advantage is in temp. It stays colder so lap times stay faster in the end. On a dyno there is no difference.
 

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I've got nearly the same results between the grey one,the black "4300 upgrade" and the sintered. The sintered one came off cooler than the other two.
-George
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info guys.

Our track record of 84 laps was set last week with the stock grey rotor .

Jake
 

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theory is the sintered rotor allows a lower temp.. this in turn allows you to run a higher gear, making the car faster.. however your car has to be spot on to notice it because if it isnt working right and you go taller o the gear it wont be as efficient..

this is the generl idea ive gotten..
 

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also depends a whole bunch on the track size. If it is a small tight track chances are you won't see as much difference with the sintered rotor. Burbs is right on the money!
 

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If you gear up with the sintered rotor to get the motor the same temperature as you had it with the grey rotor you can be pretty much assured you'll be over geared.

In my opinion gearing by temperature with the BL motors is very overrated.

I think the consesus is that there isn't much performance difference, but the increased durability of the sintered rotor is probably worth the $30 in the grand scheme of things.
 

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durability

I am just looking into the brushless arena, what does durability of the 4300 mean? should I just wait to upgrade the rotor when the stock is used up? And what defines when a rotor is beyond it's usable life? I may not be asking the questions with the right words, so please teach me!
 

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ron you need the lrp sphere comp
you need the 4300 motor
you need the rotor upgrade kit (includes the end bell and rotor and bearing)
not working on your motor= priceless


my humble oppinion is..if you do not own the sintered rotor you are going to be laps down.
 

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it sucks that folks just couldn't leave the D&mn 4300 motor alone and race it stock. Maybe the 13.5 will remain a virgin.
 

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katf1sh said:
ron you need the lrp sphere comp
you need the 4300 motor
you need the rotor upgrade kit (includes the end bell and rotor and bearing)
not working on your motor= priceless


my humble oppinion is..if you do not own the sintered rotor you are going to be laps down.
I don't know if you've raced them back to back or not, but the laps down statement is definitely incorrect. I'd be giving you the the benefit of the doubt by saying 1.5 seconds down, but no one I've heard of who has run them back to back has found much difference. Very anectdotally I thought my motor felt a bit stouter with the black rotor.

To answer the question about durability I didn't find the magnet (old rotor) to weaken much over time, but I have seen several of them move on the shaft. I haven't sen or heard of this happening with the sintered.
 

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Echeconnee said:
it sucks that folks just couldn't leave the D&mn 4300 motor alone and race it stock. Maybe the 13.5 will remain a virgin.
Cliff keep in mind the 4300 has been available for about four years. Just like everything else brushless technology has changed over that time. However development of the sintered rotor is actual a good thing, it eliminates what few problems we had with the original rotor.

The only down side is it just happened to release at the same time the 4300 oval class is gaining in popularity. I think eventually you will see an all in one package. For now Novak has made it a little easier by putting the cap and sintered rotor all in one bag NOV5923.
 

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I am really enjoying the comments on the sintered rotor how it is not fair or I thought that this would be cheaper etc. How is this any different than new brushes or special magnets in the can or removing the laminations on the arm in our old stock motor days?

I agree that the sintered rotor is the way to go for manly heat reasons. About 30 degrees cooler. As far as laps down I disagree. I have run the same number of laps as I have with the stock rotor vs sintered. The car stayed consistant throughout the run.
 

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Yea I know, just ordered 4 bags, lol. I just think some things are better left alone.
 

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katf1sh said:
ron you need the lrp sphere comp
you need the 4300 motor
you need the rotor upgrade kit (includes the end bell and rotor and bearing)
not working on your motor= priceless


my humble oppinion is..if you do not own the sintered rotor you are going to be laps down.
Fish- You forgot one:
more time working on your chassis setup= more priceless!
I don't know about the "laps down"-I had the stock rotor on my car when I beat Ronnie for the win in the HW Holiday race.
-George
 

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Sintered rotors will move on the shaft. They are "glued" on. Mine moved in a crash. It completely spun. I loctited it back together.
 

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laps down

Kat you have seen me race, I will start out laps down.

Kat and others, thanks for the input, I have access to a couple of 4300 and a GTB, and perhaps a source for the sphere, I see if I can't get it all together for the speedway spectacular and try to run around behind you guys.
 

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I am purchasing my first brushless system this saturday so hopeefully I am not making a mistake by selling all my brushed stuff and gone brushless. I also ordered the arm and upgrade kit for mine as well so I hope that the guys who race them at my track can help me with my setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I sold all my brushed stuff to run just brusless and would never go back you will like it way better.

Jake
 

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Sintered rotor is definitely worth the dough. Much more torque & runs cooler.

As far as running it in spec class, the stock rotor has plenty of grunt. The spec class should teach chassis setup and driving skill, leave the speed to 4300 and modified.

Just my thoughts.
 
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