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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1..is this the right stuff to make goop? 2..how do make goop?(plastic body repair/fill in substance)and the mix ratio? Mix with what?Bottle came with "this is the stuff to make goop and no instructions to do so.HELP!!!
 

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Mr. Hall is the goop master, but I can answer this.

1..is this the right stuff to make goop? Yes

2..how do make goop?(plastic body repair/fill in substance)and the mix ratio?
Cut the plastic into small pieces with exacto knife, or other suitable tool. Put into clean bottle. Add enough 3502 to cover the plastic bits. Allow the bits to dissolve. May take a couple of days for the magic to happen.

Mix with what? No mixing required. Plastic will dissolve.

Bottle came with "this is the stuff to make goop and no instructions to do so.HELP!!!
 

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Model Murdering
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...and there ya have it! These guys have been following along closely and doing their homework.

I would add that the plastic has to be virgin and clean. No other glue residue, or paint allowed.

Ya cant just compost scrap bodies. You have to be somewhat selective to ensure purity.
 

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Actually I do "compost" as all my current projects are custom and will get primed and painted.Someday soon I`ll find a poor abused body to restore correctly and will have to select plastic that is a good color match and clean from any paint or impurities.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks to all the above! Where or what is a good source of virgin plastic?all white plastic bodies?The bodies i have to scrap are all colored old afx bodies and some jl's.these are what i want to scrap(cars i have no desire to see go around the track).
 

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The virgin plastic MUST come from the actual slot car body in the color you desire, although some people have matched colors using the old 1960-'s-70's style Plastic colored Telephones !
Soooo... you need to collect slot bodies (or phones) to use as donor plastic for your goop !
 

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PS- if you use old Aurora A/FX bodies as donor plastic, you MUST MAKE SURE that no Paint from the original body is still on the donor Plastic you will be using for goop. Also to note, and I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think(?) that the plastic used on aurora A/FX is a different plastic than what was used on the Aurora T-Jets.
Also to note, sometimes color matching on A/FX cars gets tricky, as there was sometimes variations in shades, and especially if it was a semi translucent color... compare side by side to be sure of a match.
PS- you cannot use JL Plastic to make goop for an Aurora car, as most JL/AW Cars are merely painted White plastic, and it's a different type plastic than aurora used.
 

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The virgin plastic MUST come from the actual slot car body in the color you desire, although some people have matched colors using the old 1960-'s-70's style Plastic colored Telephones !
Soooo... you need to collect slot bodies (or phones) to use as donor plastic for your goop !
People collect the old phones today also, which drives the prices on those up rather drastically. I was quite shocked to see what was out there when I started looking for plastic. Best place to find the older phones is your local re-sale .. value village .. Salvation Army stores.

Good Luck .. :eek:
 

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Model Murdering
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Ya know what...?

Over time I've become a little more leary about the whole phone thing.

Admittedly I've used phone plastic, albeit sparingly. I initially had some success and was excited about the possibilities.

As time has progressed however, I have become less enamored with the idea of using old phones due to a few reasons.

The first being color match. I would rather have a scrap body or two that matches the repair exactly; rather than an entrie telephones worth that kinda matches. We're talking some serious tonnage requirements to have enough selection to effectively work with all the variations in the Aurora color palette.

The second being quality. Inert crap in their mix was not an issue....apparently.
What goop I've made from phones does have some character differences from that which was made with Aurora plastic. I dont allow bugs, hairballs, or sawdust.

In suspension it has a grainy dull quality like gravy made from cornstarch. Actually a characteristic of some Tyco mixes I made early on. This is unlike the cohesive, beautifully creamy mixture produced from old Aurora bodies.

Thirdly, I can easily alter the viscosity of my original Aurora mixes by metering solvent. Phone plastic on the other hand doesnt meter up from the colloid (base) state to my satisfaction. The middle range between base and wash is nonexistent; so that a medium product is difficult if not impossible to attain. Always too thick or too runny and very little middle ground.

In the interest of full disclosure remember that expectations are subjective, as are the results. My point is that I have always found that repairs made from phone plastic are more difficult to execute. The results are adequate but not always to the standard " I'd " prefer to see.

Lets keep in mind that the legend of Ma Bell and Aurora plastic being identical will forever be a part of slotcar lore and predates any of the advancements made at model murdering. I now KNOW they're not same; and until ya get a few thousand repairs under your belt and see the results first hand...

you mighty actually be swayed by the myth.

Me? Not so much anymore. I contend that our time is valuable and always figger that in order to keep the bar up.... you cant allow jokers in the deck.
 

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Model Murdering
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Soups on

Can you do molds, or make products with goop?
Well, I failed at it. For a coupla reasons.

The main one being that a low flash point product is used to liquify the plastic. This creates enough havoc as it is with regard to cure out even in very small thin layers.

Out gassing bubbles the finished product like small pox. Shrinkage distorted everything molded to boot.

Doba kicked the idea around in chat of cooking up some goop the old fashioned way using conventional heat.

The main issues are ....uh...the physical dangers of getting it into the mold and pressing in the positive half. Let alone the toxicity, the mess in general, and yer granola -tard neighbors ratting you out to Smokey the Bear and Hooty the Owl for killen' other peoples brain cells without a carbon credit in the bank.

It'd be interesting to know how long the stuff stays pourable/liquid and how long one really to had to work with it. A slosh casting might be the first thing to try.

Guess someones gotta Boy Scout a bunch of old 9" L&J curves and strain out the rails
 

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I think the mixture for phones had a higher impact quotient than the Aurora bodies. even though most slot car bodies impact at very high speeds, the slamming of a phone receiver onto the cradle or throwing one out the window when it rings at the wrong time (I've done it) probably involves more pressure than the little cars could take. the Princess phone I threw through the window survived just fine and worked OK 6 hours later when I regained consciousness. I was surprised no one tried to walk away with it, ah, but I digress.
 

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From my limited usage, I've found that goop tends to get thick with time. The plastic part stays, the 3502 kinda evaporates even when the jar is sealed. A little 3502 brings it back to a workable consistency when you need it.
 
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