Hobbyist Forums banner
  • If you've ever been interested in the history of Zee Toys or Maisto over the course of the 80s, 90s and into the modern day, you should come over to the Hobbytalk Ask Me Anything with Chepp, now live and running until Thursday, September 23rd! Don't miss out! You can ask your questions here!
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just purchased a used tiller (6 hp Troy-Bilt Horse model) from the 80's that probably hadn't run in a few years. Got it started with a huge cloud of blue smoke and oil splatter all over the garage floor (Not sure where the oil came from). I went out this morning and started it up again and all seemed fine. Seemed to lose power when I actually start tilling and I still get bouts where the power drops and the cloud of smoke returns (I mean a huge cloud of smoke). I noticed that the oil level was a little high and have sinced drained the oil but haven't tried to start the unit yet. Any suggestions. I would love to find a manual for the engine but as of yet no luck. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Oh yea, the muffler is rusted on in place if anyone has a solution for removing that without breaking the screw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,241 Posts
white smoke is oil. it might be that the rings aren't seating perfectly. no big deal just use 30 weight oil or 10w-30. this minimizes oil consumption. don't keep the cylinder side down and make sure the oil sump bolts are tight. spray some carb cleaner in it while running to make sure the jets are clean. you can get manuals online on the engine manufactures website. as for the muffler clean the bolt heads off and use a adjustable wrench to get them off. if they break you'll have to get an easy out screw remover to get them out if it has threads for a screw in muffler go get one its alot simpler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bugman said:
white smoke is oil. it might be that the rings aren't seating perfectly. no big deal just use 30 weight oil or 10w-30. this minimizes oil consumption. don't keep the cylinder side down and make sure the oil sump bolts are tight. spray some carb cleaner in it while running to make sure the jets are clean. you can get manuals online on the engine manufactures website. as for the muffler clean the bolt heads off and use a adjustable wrench to get them off. if they break you'll have to get an easy out screw remover to get them out if it has threads for a screw in muffler go get one its alot simpler.
What do you mean by "don't keep the cylinder side down"? Regarding the rusted muffler, a little liquid wrench and a few taps on the end of the screw driver worked.

Thanks in advance to all for all the help!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,241 Posts
if you have the plug pointing on a down slope it will cause more than usuall oil burn at first for the engine especially since its so old. over filling with oil will cause the same. allways store the engine level or slightly at a higher level. when not in use for a long long time pour an ounce or so of oil into the plug hole a nd circulate it slowly with the plug out the help on engine wear on start up the next time you use it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Replaced the muffler and moved on to replacing the plug. I noticed that who ever put in the last plug stripped the threads and thus the plug was not tight. Would that be the cause of some of the smoke and loss of power? The engine seems to run much better now (with the new plug) without "most" of the smoke. I still need to run the machine under load to check for power loss. I did notice that the engine seemed quite hot after shutdown. Is this common for this type engine? I noticed that smoke was coming off the engine but stopped after it cooled down a bit. I have a new head gasket to put on the engine and then will clean up the cooling fins and such. I am hopeful that this should result in an engine that lasts for years to come. Would you guys also recommend changing the electricals (points, etc.).

Sorry for the run on and thanks again for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,241 Posts
if the plug fits real tight no problem there. it would cause engine compression loss and some smoke if not. you can allways buy a new head if it is not savable. air cooled engine are allways hotter than liquid cooled engines. make sure the fins are clean. use a non multi-viscosity 10w-30 oil, synthetic is better. make sure the oil sump bolts are tight and the breather is on real tight. usually thats where the oil comes from to cause smoke when hot. i would suggest replacing that along with the gasket and breather hose. i would recomend changing the points and such since it is so old. make sure your carb linkage is tight and the carb is clean also. never use the recomended 5w-30 oil for loads like a tiller it will produce alot more oil consumption.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
609 Posts
could be the crankcase breather causing the smokething .. on rusty bolts and exaust pipes that are hard to get out i always use a little heat or run the engine and use candle wax for lube just let it melt a little it will run right along the threads works really good works on crank shaft pullys real well overfull of oil will make it blow smoke in spurts too ,, you can tip the engine in any direction just not towards the air filter without any problems when not running if you tip it towards the air filter you will be buying a new filter Tecumseh 6 HP oh yea good engine !!! :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,241 Posts
could be the breather yes that to. my old 12hp briggs i/c. goooood engine. been through hell with the last two owners yes last two. i think its 6 to ten years old not sure the rider was free. uses oil when i over fill it. no dipstick. i got a deal on that one the whole rider new deck and pulleys. only problem dead battery blown fuse and a bad solenoid. all i stripped from an old murray. its an old noma. good mower. no engine rebuilds.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top