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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everybody, figured I would start a new thread for the new cars. The old thread dates back to 2009 and doesn't really include any info or discussion about the Razor. Now we've got one big Team CRC Oval thread for all oval related products from CRC.

the write up for the new cars on the Team CRC site -

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=179&mode=&order=0&thold=0


Here's some Razor 3 pics:









Battle Axe 3:








Larger, high-res versions can be checked out on the website.

Let us know if you have any questions!


John
 

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I have both cars and only ran them twice before hanging them up for the year. There both awesome pieces and I can't wiat for the NEWYEARS DASH
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Will the 12th scale (and F1) be making its way to Horizon's distribution?
Yes! they should be showing up in Horizon's system soon!


i have the 1/12 scale car and it was money right out of the box...
and the slider rear pod is awesome :thumbsup:
:thumbsup:

Nice looking car

RC
Thanks!


I have both cars and only ran them twice before hanging them up for the year. There both awesome pieces and I can't wiat for the NEWYEARS DASH
:thumbsup:


Who makes those inner tie rod ends on the 1/12th scale car?
Wow, good eye! i forgot those were on there. Those are not the tie-rods that come with the car either. Those are the optional titanium tie rods (p/n 3317), and the ball ends are an old Losi ball end that they don't make anymore. they were for one of their touring cars.

the car comes with 2 steel tie-rods, and 4 of the ballcups that's on the outer end in those pictures.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The Battle Axe also comes with steering tie-rods. They're just not in the picture because there was no servo in the car yet.
 

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Battle Axe 3 takes the victory at the Sunshine Tour series- Jacksonville, Florida (4-29-13) in the Stock Spec13.5 class.
 

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Memorial Day Weekend

I heard some of the big dogs from CA may be heading out to AZ for some racing this weekend. I can't wait.
 

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Heard you guys had 148 entries last Sat. night, plus Todd, Raymond and the Mikes came to CALI for a day of On-Road practice on Sunday -
 

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I heard some of the big dogs from CA may be heading out to AZ for some racing this weekend. I can't wait.
I am trying to make it out that weekend. I know I'll be in Arizona, just not sure if the wife will let me out for the afternoon and evening...although I'll be trying...
 

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Az

Heard you guys had 148 entries last Sat. night, plus Todd, Raymond and the Mikes came to CALI for a day of On-Road practice on Sunday -
Yeah, they are doing really well in CALI. I think the final number was over 150 (like 157). It makes for long nights, and I'm really dragging by the end, but I love the competition:)
 

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Sounds good

I am trying to make it out that weekend. I know I'll be in Arizona, just not sure if the wife will let me out for the afternoon and evening...although I'll be trying...
I hope you can race with us, I know Scottie and Raymond are looking forward to racing you:) Maybe you can get some of the really fast guys from CA to come out and race with us.
 

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Bound Suspension Arms

Hi guys. I have my BA 3 built but not perfected. The only problem I have is with the suspension arms. If I snug the 4 cap bolts, the arms are bound up. I can loosen the bolts until the arms are free but now the pins aren't captured enough to keep the arms from wobbling around. It's like the plastic cap and lower mount are way undersized or out of round. Or am I doing this backwards and the arms are supposed to rotate where the pin goes through the ends of the arm and not the center section? Either way I'm guessing I'll need a reamer? If so, can you suggest the correct size? Other than this, the car was spot on.

Thanks!
Brian
 

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Brian,
I left the caps tight but opened the bores on the arms a lil bit... I used a piece of drill rod and some mothers spun in a drill... worked great :)
 

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Brian,
Make sure the top A-arm rotates freely on the hinge pin per above post WITH OUT the pin clamped to the castor block. I hold the hinge pin with a smooth faced needle nose plier and adjust the size of the A-arm holes until the arm swings smooth and free. Take your time, you don't want to over do it and make the holes to big! The arm should drop by itself just by the force of gravity.Once this is accomplished, you can now mount the hinge pin (with the three castor shims and a-arm installed on pin) to the castor block. Check for smooth and free movement about the hinge pin axis. Note that the pin does not rotate in the castor block and cap....but it's the arm that rotates around the captured hinge pin. Most likely, you will find that the arm does not move as freely now as it did with the pin not mounted in the castor block. I would check for binding between the arm and the castor block and top clamp. I've found that the length of the top cap must be shortened up a little to create a liitle more clearance between the a-arm mounting holes. If you are running the stock plastic castor blocks, they also might need to be shortened up a little. You can do this by sanding one end (or both ends) a little to effectively shorten the length of the cap and or castor block. Place a piece of sand paper on a flat surface and run the end of the cap across the sandpaper. Again take your time, checking the fit often until your satisfied. You want to remove only enough material to obtain free and smooth movement. I'm running aluminum castor blocks. They are shorter in length and only the top cap needed adjustment. This is a great front end with alot of adjustment. The only drawback I can find about it....it needs ALOT of massaging during the building stages in order to obtain a free and smooth operation.

It's very important to keep your front end smooth and free. It will make your car much more consistent and responsive to changes. Make it a habit to inspect, clean, and adjust as necessary. Especially after making any geometry changes.
Hope this helps....any more questions, feel free to post them....or pm me.

Sam
 

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Front End

Though I didn't have any issues with the front end on m BA 3.0, I think this is very usefull information. Thanks for the posts:)
 
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