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Painting templates for the deflector ring of lights and impulse crystal.


someone should offer a painting service for those tricky bits - I think that sort of thing happens in the car kit making circles - just send off the part.

Mike
 

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Since we're making requests for new things,
I'm tired of all this Aztecing.
How about some Incan painting templates for the Refit? :tongue:

Arapaho?
 

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robiwon said:
A different take here, how about someone selling pre painted but un-assmbled Refits? Kinda Bandi-ish.
Good idea. No offense intended but "what about seams and light leaks". The Bandai has that problem,if you don't mind the seams and leaks.
 

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fokkerpilot said:
.....and colored grills for the warp nacelles.
I tried that. Granted I had probles with the actual casting with air bubbles but even so, I only had I think it was 6 people interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
capt Locknar said:
The mold for that would just be outrageously Huge. Not worth it for something that can be fixed with a tad bit of putty.
That takes more than a tad of putty to get right. The kit's parts fit horribly do not have any overlap, no alignment at the tabs at the top, poorly fitting aignment ate the bottom, no tabs at impulse engine

Then you have the problem of grove alignment and getting the groves scribed through the fill.
 

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bigjimslade said:
That takes more than a tad of putty to get right. The kit's parts fit horribly do not have any overlap, no alignment at the tabs at the top, poorly fitting aignment ate the bottom, no tabs at impulse engine

Then you have the problem of grove alignment and getting the groves scribed through the fill.

I have to agree with Jim. The gap around the impulse engines once the DLM part is added needed more than a little putty to fix. The problem was also apparent with the kits impulse engines. The saucer would have been better had the windows come attached to one half of the primary hull.
 

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bigjimslade said:
Then you have the problem of grove alignment and getting the groves scribed through the fill.
Although, I believe that some people here have had success with using decals to represent the deflector lines around the saucer edge, meaning that no scribing would be necessary.
 

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After wasting months (and two saucers) on trying to get the side walls installed with no seams, I finally gave up and sanded the scribed lines off.

By no means does this mean I think it can't be done. I'm sure some of you have figured it out already. I couldn't. I could get most of the seams removed, but in the areas where the seams joined among the scribed lines, I never could get them to go away completely. I even tried re-scribing those areas, but the result was not satisfactory for me.

So, decals for me - unless someone comes up with a way to create photo-etch scribed lines.
 

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bigjimslade said:
That takes more than a tad of putty to get right. The kit's parts fit horribly do not have any overlap, no alignment at the tabs at the top, poorly fitting aignment ate the bottom, no tabs at impulse engine

Then you have the problem of grove alignment and getting the groves scribed through the fill.
yeah that part of the kit was POORLY engineered.
(this is in reference to the Sides of the saucer, not the DLM part)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sanding Smooth/Deflector Lights/Warp Grills

Krako said:
After wasting months (and two saucers) on trying to get the side walls installed with no seams, I finally gave up and sanded the scribed lines off.
....
So, decals for me - unless someone comes up with a way to create photo-etch scribed lines.
That's the same for me. I just gave up trying things were so bad. (Which is why I raised the issue here_

A set of relief-etched brass pieces might work as well.

In Re: Deflector Lights

Whe I found worked pretty well was to use Bare Metal Foil, burnish down, then trim out the openings.

For the warp grills, I found Tamyia clear paint works well. Mix some clear red into clear blue and airblush.

j.
 
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