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Yes, yes, rain sucks! I'm all ready to run some on-road & was very disappointed in the rain today. I don't have alot of Saturdays off from work lately...
 

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Nitro TC3 is alive!!! Dirty, Josh and I worked on it saturday and got the motor broke in. I ran it again on Sunday and it ran fine. Still working on the fuel tuning.
 

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Yea... It is foams for nitro on road. I'll start asking around, as far as what is working well lately. I know there are a number of new nitro sedan specific tires that have come out in the last year or so. Jaco has Nitro shoes, etc. They're coming in different widths now, too.

Usually they run slightly softer rears than fronts; like 45 shore front, 40 shore rears.

If somebody can get with Bubba, Chris Crews, or Gary Miller, they would know pretty well, I would think. Donnie may know as well.
 

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I talked to donnie and he said to run double purple fronts and purple rears. The rears should be wider than the front but I don't remember the exact mm size.
 

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26mm front... 30mm back if you are talkin proline nitro shoes. If you run 30mm rear tho, remove some rear toe! Plaids and purples are not as durable as "gas rubber" tires. www.speedtechrc.com carries a wide range of tires, foams AND rubbers. Thier listing can give you and idea of what to order from Rusty The new Mugen MTX-3 tires (foams) are very wear resistant, (one run in modified with an 8 turn and there was little to NO discernable wear on my abrasive home track surface... (no chunking) and provide ample traction for the dollar, on high temp asphalt tracks. At 16$ a pair, and several weeks of running, you cant beat em! Shore ratings for front up to 110 degrees (track temp) is 45... and 42 in the rear. Just a starting point that should work well. I included a pic of some YOK138G tires (rubber) that i usually practice with... these wore out in about 8 hard runs, all the way down to the threads! The foams have several weeks on them... and still have yet to get smaller than 2.24, chunk, or peel apart like plaids and purples do! Dont debate the difference between nitro HP and electric HP... there are guys here with serpent 705's and two speeds that cant touch my lap times... OR straightaway speed. So tire durability on nitro shouldnt be a factor. We have a club out of Florida, PARA R/C, that has brought ALOT of fast guys here for racing. Huge 200' x 75' layouts in the middle of the local HT parkinglot. :eek: Anyways... just my .02 .
- Dave
 

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Just because electric is faster doesn't mean the tire wear is even remotely the same. Electric is faster mainly BECAUSE it is smoother. Smoother= less wear.

That said... I think driver and setup have more to do with tire wear than gas vs. electric.




Of course mainly I just wanted to bust you balls a bit Dave. :devil:
 

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:jest: Nothin like a good ball bustin! I think i miss that most of all...being here in AL. You and Jady can get rather raw... and makes for an amusing night at the track! :lol: Agreed... tire wear is related to driver and setup... but alot of people will automatically say gas is harder on tires due to the "increased HP". Which reminds me... while talking about tires... did you ever find who snagged your tires off of your integra?! Me and my girl swapped the Saturn L200 for a 94 prelude with an h23 in it (104k miles.. and milano red, damn good shape, got it from a chic, original owner, her dad bought it for her as a grad present, she was selling it to get a BMW... friggin creampuff man). Aint done nothin to it yet (just a clutch... wasnt slippin but... wanted one with more bite.. and had the flywheel turned down while i was at it)... prolly wont for a while...the import scene here is kinda slow. So im hoping interest in ripping parts here is just as slow! Noone here does any motor work on imports other than repair. There is a shop..but they do only bolt-ons and rims and tires... no machinists for head work and such. But i figured 190HP stock was sufficient for now... LOL Anyways... till next time...
- Dave
 

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yep what they said. tire wair is usally set up and trigger finger. i've run most of all tire compounds. 40 & below shore for colder weather 50 degees & lower. 40 & above shore for 60 degrees & above. they also make front & rear foam rear foam being more open cell front foam is more dense closed cell. a mix of compounds between 50 & 60 degees.
I run 40 in the rear 45 in the front, purple rears double purple fronts varing the width acording to what the car is doing. hope this helps some. .............bubba :confused: :confused:
 

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Bubba

What's happening? Will you be joining us soon? The 17th?

Dave

Excellent purchase. :thumbsup: I dig ludes!! MMMMMMmmmm. H23. So much potential in those engines. The right cams and bolt-ons do so much for those. There is more going on for Hondas in Alabama than you might think. I'm not sure where in AL, but there are a couple good Honda gurus around with a lot of forced induction experience.

One is named Jim (knows supercharged setups very well, makes custom pulleys and other stuff) Contact info:

Motorvations Motorsports
(205) 661-3600
'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
'95 Civic DX Coupe with H22A4... Daily driven with a baby seat in the back...
Best 1320: 13.96 at 101 mph


As for the wheel thief.... Last I heard the cops knew who one was but he took off out of town. Oh well. I've moved on. Let's hope Kharma catches up with them.
 

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Chad! Thanx for the info... i was wondering about underdrive pulleys, and supercharging versus turbo. I know the difference between the two, and i think i would prefer supercharging to turbo. Supercharging gives power without the lag (but a little more drag), and on demand, but i know a person that is on top of the game can get a turbo almost lag-free. Not to mention the piping for a supercharger seems to leave a cleaner appearance under the hood. A full header and exhaust setup will run me close to 900... all GReddy bolt-on. Parts for these things aint cheap. I will most likely do exhaust/intake first... fuel/spark management... then cams/head/pulleys. Forced induction will be last. NO NITROUS... i have seen the bad bad bad of that world. Depends tho... ZEX makes a great kit... maybe a 50 shot... you know speed... its addictive! :devil: Heck im having fun runnin stock mustangs and camaros!! Car handles tight for it to be that old... it has the SI Aluminum wheels of that year... so some ground control coilovers to drop it a lil bit, and some cross drilled rotors should make her look sweet going slow... and bring her down fast. Sure beats the blue 1986 Accord hatch i used to have.......... LOL I ran a guy here that owns a Type R...hes got me on top speed... i can pull him all the way to 90 in 3rd... then he just walks the dog on me (hes prolly slow on the shift) ... i top out just shy of 130 mph flat-out. I say walk the dog... hes about two carlengths ahead of me. Next time ill close the sunroof! LOL Ill give that guy Jim a call and talk to him, pick his brain on what he thinks i can do. Geez... too many hobbies! My brother in law has an '02 smurf-blue BMW M3... dear god that car is sick! His wife just got one of the new Z4's....... bastards. LOL

Whats up Bubba? How you been feeling? I miss the city.... >sigh<
- Dave
 

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:eek: :eek: Off road need s some help saturday May 10 to get the track finished. Any help any length of time.
Remember on road saturday May 17
Rusty
 

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My TC3 is ready. My 1/12 is sorta ready. Just need to get some rear tires for that. I guess pinks or whites? I've only run 1/12 mod on pavement for a half a lap or so. :eek: Some of you were there.... Some of you saw the tape. Lol. It was a spectacle.

Dave: I have a Zex kit with a purge solenoid, pressure guage, etc... I had it in my GSR for one weekend/ bottle. Clutch couldn't hold it, and I didn't feel like taking the time to put in an aftermarket one. The car only had 12,000 miles on it at the time. I had the interior gutted at the time. I ran a best of 14.6 ish with a "65 shot", slipping clutch and a struggling driver (my first and only time on a real strip). I remember having good trap speed (indicating good power), but my 60 foot times were horrid... like 2.3's.... part clutch, part inexperienced driver. You need a real beefy clutch to run nitrous. But you can run it pretty safely motor wise. The main thing is to retard your timing a couple of degrees, and run colder spark plugs. Never over rev. Missed shifts BAD. :mad: :eek:
 
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