STAR WARS R2 & 3PO
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Geez, I first thought that the R2 pic was of the real thing......excellent work as usual!
I'm always bringing friends to your website to view your work, you gonna post these there when you're finished?
Also, on the model, didn't the center "leg" retract into the body? Been so long since I had these two it seems like a vague memory
I'm always bringing friends to your website to view your work, you gonna post these there when you're finished?
Also, on the model, didn't the center "leg" retract into the body? Been so long since I had these two it seems like a vague memory
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1,291 Posts
Sharp clean work!:thumbsup: What color blue did you use on shorty?
Thanks guys! 
Yep Mitch the upper leg does retract.
Believe it or not those droid kits go for 10.00 to 30.00 on ebay all the time...even the original 1977 releases!
For R2's blue anodized parts I used a base coat of a flat aluminum with final coats of tamiya clear blue, the dome is metallizers aluminum.
3PO is painted with the Alclad II 'pale Gold' a little brighter color than the bootle looks but nothing I experiemented with had that real nice bright metalic look
Watch...in a week or two Alclad will come out with a BRIGHT GOLD!
I did try to mix a bit of the Alclad chrome with the pale gold but it didn't look right....BUT! it did work great for 3PO's lower right leg!
Yep Mitch the upper leg does retract.
Believe it or not those droid kits go for 10.00 to 30.00 on ebay all the time...even the original 1977 releases!
For R2's blue anodized parts I used a base coat of a flat aluminum with final coats of tamiya clear blue, the dome is metallizers aluminum.
3PO is painted with the Alclad II 'pale Gold' a little brighter color than the bootle looks but nothing I experiemented with had that real nice bright metalic look
Watch...in a week or two Alclad will come out with a BRIGHT GOLD!
I did try to mix a bit of the Alclad chrome with the pale gold but it didn't look right....BUT! it did work great for 3PO's lower right leg!
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6,630 Posts
Beautiful work Fluke! I've always thought MPC/AMT's R2 kit was one of their best. A few minor modifications, and you have a reasonably accurate R2 at a decent price. I wish I could say the same for C-3PO...unfortunately, I haven't found a good way to get around his egg-shaped, too-big-for-his-body head. But for what they are (not to mention the nostalgia factor), these are pretty good kits, and you've certainly done them justice!
One of these days I gotta get me an airbrush so I can start using Alclad's products...
One of these days I gotta get me an airbrush so I can start using Alclad's products...
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1,784 Posts
AHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!......Fluke, you're making me crazy! First The Spindrift and now THIS. As soon as I build something that I think looks decent, you hafta go and post YOUR latest project and then I look at mine again and it looks like I built it with my feet . I can't STAND it anymore! If you weren't such an asset to this hobby, I'd have to hate you !!!
Seriously, beautiful job (as usual).
Model on Garth!
. I can't STAND it anymore! If you weren't such an asset to this hobby, I'd have to hate you !!!Seriously, beautiful job (as usual).
Model on Garth!
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312 Posts
How did you accurize and correct the R2 kit's inaccurate dome? I used the blue panel kit insert, but vacuformed a new dome to put it in.
Howdy spacecraftguy! :wave:
Thats was the first thing that I noticed was that funky wedge shaped white plastic disc that goes between the dome and the body, So I sanded that vertical and then got rid of those two lower 'ridges' or 'lips' at the bottom of the dome. ( now all the parts are even ) then I made up the anodized blue ring. So now there are three parts in order from top to bottom:
1. the dome.
2. the thin blue spacer.
3. the thicker aluminum spacer.
All pre painted then attatched later NO MASKING!
The clear blue insert kit part for R2's dome was cut into sections ( for easier work ) and was painted before it was inserted into place.
I hope that answers your question?
Thats was the first thing that I noticed was that funky wedge shaped white plastic disc that goes between the dome and the body, So I sanded that vertical and then got rid of those two lower 'ridges' or 'lips' at the bottom of the dome. ( now all the parts are even ) then I made up the anodized blue ring. So now there are three parts in order from top to bottom:
1. the dome.
2. the thin blue spacer.
3. the thicker aluminum spacer.
All pre painted then attatched later NO MASKING!
The clear blue insert kit part for R2's dome was cut into sections ( for easier work ) and was painted before it was inserted into place.
I hope that answers your question?
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312 Posts
Sure did!
I did a variation on your method - I vac-formed a new dome, cut holes in it for the panels, cut the panels apart and glued them into the dome, then glued a sheet styrene disk into the bottom of the dome to replace the funky kit version that has that angle cut in it.
I have to say that your R2-D2 looks really great -superb work!
I tried to fix the C-3PO head - filled in the triangular hole in the face, tried to modify the eyes. It came out a little better that the stock kit, but wound up finding one of the talking C-3PO pens that Tiger made a few years back, and cut the head off the pen and used that. Looks a lot better.
I did a variation on your method - I vac-formed a new dome, cut holes in it for the panels, cut the panels apart and glued them into the dome, then glued a sheet styrene disk into the bottom of the dome to replace the funky kit version that has that angle cut in it.
I have to say that your R2-D2 looks really great -superb work!
I tried to fix the C-3PO head - filled in the triangular hole in the face, tried to modify the eyes. It came out a little better that the stock kit, but wound up finding one of the talking C-3PO pens that Tiger made a few years back, and cut the head off the pen and used that. Looks a lot better.
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