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Anyone got some pointers for a newbie on 4 cell spec battery maintenance? just getting started and want to get max performance and life out of my batteries.
 

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Have you looked at Spec battery charging thread below ?

I'm assuming your using Trinity Spec packs , either 4 or 6 cell.

Bottom line ,,, you can't abuse these like the old scr packs.

Charge at a modest 5 amps , discharge after race at 10-15 amps.

Never " cycle " discharge any higher as the cell temps skyrocket.

I'd use either a bc-112 on pf 1 or a converted Bc-210 for 4 cell.

Never deep discharge , bring entire pack down to .75 per cell and don't hold it there,,,,,,, just do it with a half dozen 1154 bulbs and let it bounce back.

I shouldn't say it but ,,,,,,,,,,if you were running good cells like the Sanyo Red SCR's then you'd dead short , ect , ect.

Just my opinion :)
 

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i had a pack that was headed for the garbage, was only good for about 2 1/2 minutes, i dead shorted it and its one of the best packs outta the 10 or 12 i got right now !!
 

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Thats why I gave up racing for almost three years, moved here to NC and they were mostly racing spec, bought four packs and got only one decent pack out of the bunch so I just quit racing, brushless has gotten me interested again. Ralf
 

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kill em dead with the lights, make sure its waaaaaay dead on the lights, and i just made a jumper with my sermos connectors. plug it in and then the majic happens !! they will get pretty warm, but it worked on a few packs.
 

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Dead shorting

Dead shorting will bring up the MILLAMPS but u will loooooooose run time and U cant a fored to lose run time in spec classes.... Just be genital with them and they will come around.... 4.5 Amp charge and 10 amp disscharge u can go up to
5 amp on the charge. At home I charge at 4.5 amps and when I get to the track i peek at 5 amps just another thing the faster u put in the faster it will go out...... Just my .02
Have FUN and GOOD luck L8er JW#62
 

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To try to help everyone with their spec packs this is the info I got out of my GFX this weekend after cycling. I drop them down to about 1v per pack before I charge them, and they are all the new red spec packs. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks
Joel White

Spec 1
Dischg Time 599 Dischg Ave Volts 4.63 Charge Time 1634 Cutoff Volts 3.60
Peak Charge Volts 6.74 Relative Res 150 Actual Res 40.5 Dischg Amps 10.0
Delay1 120 Delay2 120 Charge 1 Amps 4.0 Charge 2 Amps 5.0
Peak 1 Det 0.030 Peak 2 Det 0.040 mAHr 1663 mWHr 7704 Dischg Ave @1V 4.66
TurboFlex 1 ON Level 3 TurboFlex 2 OFF Level 6

Spec 2
Dischg Time 579 Dischg Ave Volts 4.48 Charge Time 1706 Cutoff Volts 3.60
Peak Charge Volts 6.97 Relative Res 172 Actual Res 42.6 Dischg Amps 10.0
Delay1 120 Delay2 120 Charge 1 Amps 4.0 Charge 2 Amps 5.0
Peak 1 Det 0.030 Peak 2 Det 0.040 mAHr 1608 mWHr 7213 Dischg Ave @1V 4.58
TurboFlex 1 ON Level 3 TurboFlex 2 OFF Level 6

Spec 3
Dischg Time 544 Dischg Ave Volts 4.51 Charge Time 1813 Cutoff Volts 3.60
Peak Charge Volts 6.68 Relative Res 156 Actual Res 44.6 Dischg Amps 10.0
Delay1 120 Delay2 120 Charge 1 Amps 4.0 Charge 2 Amps 5.0
Peak 1 Det 0.030 Peak 2 Det 0.040 mAHr 1511 mWHr 6820 Dischg Ave @1V 4.56
TurboFlex 1 ON Level 3 TurboFlex 2 OFF Level 6
 

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OK Just to jumpstart this tread again I did make some tests with older (yellow) 4-cell spec packs last summer. Charge at 4A run for about 5 minutes with a very low geared pan car then discharge at 10A - all with an Intellipeak charger/discharger. Did it for a total of 3 runs. Nothing fancy at all.

With newer red cells I just don't know if batts would react the same. Maybe the more you apply tricks the more you may see differences.

The one thing I wonder: Do all these 1A dischargers any good? I mean even after using your pack for runs during a day then put discharger on it, it might take hours before pack completely discharges correctly. It also tells me the longer it discharges, running time gets higher while power goes down.

On the other hand I'd not try a 30A discharger with 4cell spec probably too high it would toast it or make some wonderful fireworks.

I still have all my spec stuff so I could do some testing again and play with gearing to check runtime.

Stephane Courchesne
Drummond,Quebec (Canada)
 

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I just got my first "official" 1600 spec pack to run in street spec. I plan to try treating it like some 1500 NiCds ai ran in a different spec class that required 1500 batteries.

I charge them at 4.5 to 5A. After I run them, I dicharge them on a string of lights (10 bulbs - Deans discharger) until the black box cuts off.

Then I start my special procedure: On the 6 cell pack, I dicharge them to 6 volts at ever decreasing amp rates. I start at 3A, then 1.5 and keep cutting it in half or so until I have taken it down to 6V at .1A (yes, one tenth Amp). So far, I have gotten two years out of a pair of 1500 NiCd Piranha packs and they still cycle out to within 10% of what they started at.

I store them in between races as they end up after the .1A discharge.
 

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Okay very interesting...here is what I do......and I haven't seen any fireworks or had one pop yet....

New packs.....

Charge at 4 amps for 600 seconds.....discharge at 18 amps to 3.6......

take them ALL the way down with 2-3 bulbs till the lights go out.......

Charge at 7 amps.....0.04 cutoff.......get them warm.....

Belive it or not I am still running packs that are a season old in my legends car and my stuff is fast.....

Now old packs I do the samething but to dead short them I let the bulbs sit on longer...then when I charge them I have to put charger on Long lock out....

Now during the week cycle them on Monday at 18 amps to 4.00 volts....take all the way down with lights......cycle on wednesday.....cycle on friday....and race them.....

I have found the abuse doesn't kill them it makes them better.....
 

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Im still runnin 3 year old packs. I charge on an indy at 6a then give them a hit at 6.8 (cause thats as high as it goes) or so before I run. I ran last sat. and I havent discharged them yet. When I do it will be with 12 bulbs untill the lights are out.
When I used my turbo charger(that just broke):cry: I charge at 6.5 and peak at 7.5 with plenty of heat. I only use them for qualifying but they are strong all the way. The new packs are not going to last as long because the numbers are too high when they peak already. old packs are peaking at 7.3 to 7.7 the new ones peak at 8.4 with only 3 runs apiece on them. Nothing like improving something and making it worse.
 

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darrel, you have a picture of the back of your turbocharger?

I just grabbed one off ebay, but the wires were cut.

Cannot tell which goes to power supply and which to battery to be charged, let alone positive or negative leads.

I think the ribbed portion of the lamp cord is positve as it leads to the fuses.

Thanks for your help, after 16 years away from RC Carpet Oval, I'm jumping back in Legends.

Swore I'd never got back to Bojunk.....well I was wrong :)
 

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BoneSpec said:
darrel, you have a picture of the back of your turbocharger?

I just grabbed one off ebay, but the wires were cut.

Cannot tell which goes to power supply and which to battery to be charged, let alone positive or negative leads.

I think the ribbed portion of the lamp cord is positve as it leads to the fuses.

Thanks for your help, after 16 years away from RC Carpet Oval, I'm jumping back in Legends.

Swore I'd never got back to Bojunk.....well I was wrong :)
Sorry I didnt get back sooner I just noticed your question.
Looking at the charger from the back with the wires on the right it goes like this.
the top wire is the power supply pos. the 2nd wire is the power supply neg.
3rd down is the batt. pos. and the last is the batt. neg.
I hope this helps you out. good luck with it its a great charger, at least it has been for me for the last 18 years.
 

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well, I opened it up.......thats never good right????????

I'd planned on adding 12g Novak leads.....in place of 18g lamp cord.....right.

Followong "common" sense the 15 amp fuse is input, 12VDC+ would go stright to fused, so the "ribbed" part of the lamp cord was 12VDC+......

I had to enlarge the opening on the back panel for the larger wire.....overall in the process I broke the leads for the temp sensor (thermistor) that was glued to the heat sink on top of the case.

I'll get pics this weekend, but from Ebay wins, I have FOUR Novak chargers, so I'll be find if I killed the CETC.........I hope not though!
 
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