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Discussion Starter #1
I'm building a drag car, The chassis is a new Thunderjet 500, it has a mean green arm,stock mags, the gears have been lapped and the slop taken out of the rear axle. Would it benefit more from one or another,braids, shunts, both, or does it really need it?
 

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both increase the conductivity of any car. but, try the shunts first and compare the change in performance, then add the braids and make another comparison.
braids may prove to be a little high maintenance for a lot of people.
if you are speaking of the AW or JL chassis be really careful soldering. the chassis melts very easily and the rivets can act as a heat sink and cause problems there.
lightly tin all surfaces before making the final solder joint.
 

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I'm building a drag car, The chassis is a new Thunderjet 500, it has a mean green arm,stock mags, the gears have been lapped and the slop taken out of the rear axle. Would it benefit more from one or another,braids, shunts, both, or does it really need it?
The answer is yes! :p

Both!

Each modification remedies the individual shortcomings of the two moveable electrical connections in the pick ups. They should be two separate considerations of the same dilemma.

Shunting the shoe hook-hanger plate connection adds reliability to the primitive spring loaded hinge connection; and I've rarely met a custom or performance setup that didnt benefit from the addition of braids.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys! Thanks Al,it's a new Ultra G so I'll keep that in mind.
It's a proxy car for an NTRA race. The rules say stock chassis with the exception of the braids, shunts, 5ohm arm, and sili-foams, .485 max. Any rear gear. Here's a picture, sorry don't have one of the chassis.
 
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