That problem is more prevalent with direct drive cars. I have never had that happen with my electric 1/8th scale Losi with a [original] Mamba Max driving a Neu motor. Or with a Castle Sidewinder driving a Novak 8.5 (without the sensors) in my XXX-T (offroad truck). The slack in the drivetrain/cvds lets the controller sync up with the motor instantly.VicnPA
A couple weeks ago, I was at my Local Hobby Shop and a guy came in with a new car he bought with a Sensorless Motor/Esc combo.
I don't recall the brand, but the ESC looked like the Speed Passion LPF, but it was sensorless.
He was having a problem with the ESC setup - (so he thought) It had Forward and Reverse...but if the car went forward, it didn't want to back up...if it went backward, it didn't want to go FORWARD, if he STOPPED while going in those directions.
He had to switch directions while the car was moving...
In RACING, guys have found many times a SENSORLESS Motor won't take OFF on the line, so they get RUN OVER. The car works fine with a shove to get the car moving.
This seems to come from the sensorless motor being shoved backward prior to the start of the race - and the motor doesn't know what to do when you hit the throttle.
YOU DON'T HAVE THAT PROBLEM generally WITH SENSOR BASED Brushless Motors.
Now that all depends on the controller:thumbsup:I can run a sensored or sensorless 17.5 behind my hobby wing 35 a esc with no issues(off-road),But a race buddy of mine tried the same thing with a castle speedo and got horrible cogging on the higher wind motors (13.5,17.5). So, like sensored speedo's, the firmware and adjustability DO matter.Get sensored period. Sensorless will work OK with about 8.5 turn or under. Don't even think about sensorless 21.5 or 17.5...........terrible...........