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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So,after two year in a box,I decided that I wanted to see my Seaview up and built.The thing that bothered me was the radar domes on the sides.Some magic sculpt on the inside,then some resculping and you can see the difference.The center strake on the 17 footer does not go all the way up to the "stage" it fades at the top.Not quite finished but you can see where it's going.I found an automotive primer that,to me is the perfect top coat color.Now,if I could only get rid of the seam around the window insert....
 

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I finally found some led light strings that I want to use for lighting mine, so my journey with it is about to commence.

One thing I really wish, was that there were individual kit tips threads.. hunting down all the old build tip information is a bit of a daunting task.

For instance, I can't recall which was considered better.. assembling the front and back and then joining them, or assembling the sides, and then joining those. (I remember someone having a good reason for doing it side to side.

Maybe a "official" J2 tips thread would be a good place to start? Or someone here could be assigned mod status now, and be able to cobble something like that together?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's much easier to do the front and back and join them in the center. Your asking for a lot of headaches if you do it the other way. I just have to figure out how I'm going to add the inch or so to the length.There was soppose to be an aftermarket plug,but it never came out,so I'm left to my own devices.The 17 footer is longer and the sail should be back by about an inch.
 

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I'm content with the shape as it is. Besdies, I'd just muck it up if I tried to extend it any longer.

As a kid I was happy with the old aurora seaview.. this one will satisfy my adult craving.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The problem was how to add the extra length to the hull so that it represents the 17 footer.It came to me today that to make the plug I need to stand the front end in a box and and pour silicone up to the line.That should give me the plug with only one cut to the model.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The results.........The plug in place,now it looks more like the 17 footer.This also allows me to move the sail plate back as well.Time to join the two hulls together.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Sorry,no plans to make any more.The mold was a "dirty" mold...not much good for more than one,I had to pour two different kinds of rubber,the first pour did'nt fill the box and the second almost cured before I could pour it!I'm in the tropics now and it's a pain to make molds here.You could make your own box and plug,the bottom of the box is 4 3/4'' square,and the walls are 2 3/4" high.You need 18 oz.(revised) of silicone to make the mold.The resin is about 12-13 oz.Pour the resin in batches of 2 oz. each and not in one pour.

Because of the plug,the sail and the plate it sits on can be slid back to where it should be,and a piece of sheet styrene added to the front.The only thing I cut from the hull is the inner sleeve that went into the back hull,and that was after I made the plug.I tried to do a slush mold so it would be hollow but that did not work.The plug is pitted with bubbles and is going to need a lot of bondo to make it right.The photos shows how the plate and the sail move back.Remember the 17' uses the twenty missile plate.
 

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Beautiful.
I am cutting the limber holes in mine, its my third one! Also for my third RC, this time using a RCABS system from Big Dave Welch.

To cut the limber holes, I use a 1/32 drill bit with my Dremel on its lowest speed in a Dremel drill press, to open up the area, then just use a very sharp and small knife to finish it up....Perfect!
:thumbsup:

Limber holes look so cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'll be using Paulbo' PE Set for the limber holes.I'm going to split the top "Stage" off the hull,just havent decided when,before I join the hull or after.It will make replaceing lights much easier.
 

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The plug's looking super, Alexander. I don't think you'll have trouble with filling the pits in the casting, considering how nicely your sonar domes are working out.

A quick note on removing the "stage" area: that area on the studio models is also a separate piece with a very visible gap between it and the main hull. This means you don't have to make some insanely perfect seam between the two, which would be tough with a removable piece.

I'm looking forward to seeing more!

(P.S. I included extra grab handles so I think there might be enough to replace all of the ones along the spine and add the ones into your new plug area.)
 
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