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Discussion Starter #1
Back in March I purchased the PL 1701 Refit & like everyone else I was blown away by how large, detailed & amazing the kit is. I however am a generation of the 1701-A version & was sad to see that the shuttlebay for that version was not included. After carfull consideration and much planning I decided to tackle this problem by building the shuttlebay from scratch, please keep in mind that this is my first attempt at scratch building & I send out my appreciation to all the people who gave me tips & tricks to help me with this project.


The following are pictures of the pieces built up from sheet styrene before any paint had touched them plus a few test fits. By the way for anyone new to this, a cool trick I stumbled upon was using an oversized door hinge with files or sand paper to keep all the edges and corners straight and at right angles, something very important if dealing with small measurements.







After I had hit this point in the project I stumbled upon difficulty with the roof and how i was gonna make it fit. After enjoying the summer with some camping & other activities I found my solution, some clear water bottles had just the right curvature for what I needed. Before I could get the roof done some sub-assembling was needed & before I could do that I needed to get some airbrushing outta the way. I am planning on lighting this thing so light blocking was needed as well



The windows of the control room I figured I would just make them black with a clear coat on top.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
The windows of the control room I wanted to stand out so thank to a tip from Rel, the guy who made that absolutely amazing Sovereign class Starship GK. He gave me a tip for useing Mr. Surfacer sprayed on in layers to build up the walls as to give depth to the control room windows.

This is a picture of the measurements for masking the windows.



The Windows getting masked.



The windows masked and ready for the airbrush.





The next shots about were my progress is right now with a few layers of Mr. Surfacer





My plan is to put 2 more layers on then sand it smooth to be ready for some airburshing with white paint. When I airbursh this piece I'll be airburshing all of the pieces & then finally I'll be able to do some sub-assembling. Painting should begin this weekend & I'll be sure to post some pictures when I have some more stuff to show.

Any tips or suggestions from anyone out there would be very appreiciated since this is my very first scratch build project.

To the addmins. I really don't know how to size down the pictures so if thats a problem please let me know how to post future pictures as thumbnails.
 

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Very nice!

After building up all those layers of paint, how do you unmask the windows without pulling paint off? Do you scribe around the masks?

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #12
zysurge said:
Very nice!

After building up all those layers of paint, how do you unmask the windows without pulling paint off? Do you scribe around the masks?

Eric
That is something that I have been thinking about & is a concern for me but I am hoping that after I sand it down, the layer of paint on the masks will be very thin. With the use of a sharp #11 blade & a whole lot of patients I am really hoping that it will come out ok. I am also doing some practice techniques on some scrap styrene to see what method works best.

If anyone out there has a good technique to help this out I would really appreciate a response.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
justinleighty said:
That's great! Could you tell me more about how you built the control room shape(s)?
First thing that I did & I am guessing that most scratch build projects require is lots & lots of research. I searched the net, asked around forums like this, Starship Modeler & Starship Builder. I found some CGI models of the shuttlebay And also I watched the Dvd STV with the remote in hand about 100 times. (If anyone needs referance material let me know)

The actual control room I built up in 3 pieces first the base with its basic square "C" shape, second the walls using very thin clear plastic. The walls were first cut in one long strip at the right height, then I drafted out the proper angles & lengths that I planed to cut each of the pieces of wall. Third I cut out a larger square "C" shape for the roof carfuly sanding down the angle of the roof using a small wooden block to hold the sand paper & to keep everything straight and flat. I did have put some support on the interior of the control room to keep it from collapsing when I was constantly sanding it, I also used "super glue" to glue it all together since cement glue doesn't hold so well under pressure with such small thin plastic. After lots of priming & sanding I was then satisfied with the overall look, it was then ready for the next step that you can see at the beginning of this post.
 

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Thanks for the reply! I wasn't sure if you built walls or just found a really thick piece of some material for the middle of a "sandwich" type structure. The whole thing looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's seems life is much like scratch building, full of trial & error. This weekend I tried to remove the masking for the windows & was sadly dissapointed how the results turned out. Even after sanding the Mr. Surfacer down to the masking as to limit the chance that some of the Mr. Surfacer might lift, it still didn't help with some of the windows.



I have already begun a diffrent method that I came up with while thinking of ways to possibly fix the surfacer windows. I am going to cut windows out of pre-cut layers of very thin styrene that fits exactly to the control room walls. After that I can just spray them white then attach them after all the painting is done leaving very little maintenece like sanding to be done. After thinking about this I figured it will acually be easyer & the end result will look much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Can you please explain or illustrate the "door hinge technique" for keeping things square?

Beautiful work!

Tom
After scribing the lines that I need leaving about 1 mm for error, I would then cut them to the appropriate shape. Once I got the shape I want I just need to insert the piece of styrene or whatever plastic is to be used into the hinge and sand to the exact messurements I required.



The hinge will keep everything straight and at right angles plus if the hinge is metal you can use a dremol to make the sanding faster without sanding out too much
 

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Mr. Canoehead said:
The hinge will keep everything straight and at right angles plus if the hinge is metal you can use a dremol to make the sanding faster without sanding out too much
OMG, that's frakkin brilliant! How come I've never heard of this before?!? That would have come in so handy on the bash I'm currently doing.

Have to pick up some hinges at the next flea market I go to.

Eric
 
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