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Discussion Starter #1
I'm fixing a leaf blower. When I took it apart the fuel lines were all hard and broken. It looks like this;

Ooops..... my first post so I can't add a link so after the board url add
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The parts list says I need to buy these 2 things and doesn't list just the hose.
  • 147356 Return Line Assembly
  • 147036 Fuel Line Assembly

I'd just go buy some fuel line but it looks like the OD must be exact to seal the hole where it goes into the tank.

Anyone know where to buy this resiluent fuel line and what sizes?

It has a Walbro WT275 carb. If it is clean and the diaphram in the top and bottom look good is there anything else to look for?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After a little more reasearch...

Do I want to buy a variety of Tygon Fuel Line?

This stuff is all brittle, stretched cracked so it will be hard to determine the two sizes for he green and yellow.
 

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I am pretty sure that both of the lines are the same size diameter. I use a 3/16" O.D. diameter fuel line on the majority of Ryobi engines I come across.
 

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In case anyone searches for this model Ryobi and finds this, the tubing that goes to the pump side of the Walbro carb is 3/16 OD 1/8 ID. The tubing for the regulator side (primer) is 3/16 OD 3/32 ID.

I got the 3/16 OD 1/8 ID at Lowes in a package that was labled 3/16 OD 3/32 ID :confused:. I went to another Lowes thinking I could get the other tube but they were all labled wrong. I had to go to a lawn equipment supplier to get the smaller ID tube. It was .25 per inch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Crap

I replaced all the cracked, brittle split hoses. The first time I primed it the bulb cracked so I went out and got another one.

It won’t start. It runs on starting fluid and if you let it sit a little gas comes out the main nozzle (I think) and it will run on that for a couple seconds.

The carburetor does not leak externally. I took the top and bottom covers off and the gaskets looked good and the flapper valves on the pump body looked like the pressed against the holes. The diaphragm on the bottom had no holes but seemed stiff; of course I haven’t looked at one before.

When I prime it the bulb fills 3/4 with gas but on the release it sucks an air bubble from the carburetor you can see going through the line. Is that right? I can’t think of where that air would be coming from.

What is the next step? I am worried about the air bubble that sucks through but can’t figure where it comes from. It could be normal but I have nothing to compare it to. The instructions I have don’t show how to service the main nozzle check valve. Is there a check valve on the idle/low speed circuits?

Is the next step to get the K10-WAT repair kit or should I try D10-WAT gasket kit?

I already have $10 invested in this thing.
 

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Is the first step to pressurize the fuel line with a hand pump and see it climb to 20-30 psi and have it drop off to 10?

Is that brass plug in the diapragm chamber the main check valve?
 

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It's very possible that the diaphragm is stiff and not working properly. Bubbles in the primer bulb are normal as a little air can make it back into the metering chamber before the check valve seals good.

I personally prefer to use the complete kit, but if the only problem is the diaphragms, then the diaphragm kit is a little cheaper.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got it to run on its own tonight but was very hard to start.

It held air to about 25 psi when the needle lifted off the seat.

I blew air through the brass fitting with the hole in it in the bottom chamber and saw vapor come out the main nozzle. I tried to suck on it and got a taste of gas. I started to play with a vacuum pump and after a while it held steady. Now when you blow or suck you can hear something click inside.

I have no idea if I did anything to make it work. I will try to start it again tommorow.

I did notice after it ran the primer bulb was hard, almost pressurized. How do you tell if the fuel pump is working?
 

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I tried to start it this morning and it would not start without starting fluid.

Once it starts it runs fine and restarts.

Could this be caused by the flaps on the fuel pump diapragm not seating until the engine runs?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
All right I think I figured it out.
The choke plate has a wave washer that I thought should go under the plate. It turns out it closes off the throat much better with it on top.

Starts and runs fine.:)
 
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