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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had gooed myself onto a corner and all current projects were curing. So Weds night after Chat I opened up a fresh pack of blades. The following reflects the ensuing carnage. ;)

Pic 1 - Here we see a crusty yellow deuce that had simmered for several days in easy off to remove a good mile of blue paint. The left rear fender had to be barbecued with my bic and straightened. It finally flattened out! Not much to look at but she's hiding something!

Pic 2 - The front and side trunk seams were painstakingly scribed out. The lower seam of the rumble was determined from A Model "A" website and scribed out in it's natural position well above the lower trunk seam. This allowed some of the rear screw post to be salvaged.

Pic 3 - Lousy pic! but you get the idea. I'd like to have the lid drop a little lower, however the floor of the rumble compartment will determine the final position of the lid as the seat back and bottom must come together correctly when opened.

Pic 4 - A front stop was made from a Ferrari 250 GTO rocker panel. It'll probably get thinned a bit later

Pic 5 - Shows the pivot/slider bar. It was made from the other Ferrari rocker and functions like one slat of a roll top desk. It will be hidden by the seat backrest down the road.

It should be noted that without the efforts of Boss' and his pevious R&D efforts; this rumble rod would never have materialized. Thanks Phil! :wave:

More to follow. See next post. :cool:
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #2
Rumble notes

Pic 1 - Gives you an idea of whats left of the rear post. Triangular side reinforcement gussets will be gooed in when I fill the backside of the rear apron. This is SOP on my modified deuces as the rear apron is notoriously thin and therefore problematic. The gussets and rear fill will be easy. They will be bonded in one continuous float.

If you squint a bit you can see the inner guides for the rumble. They mirror the fender shape and have an arched relief slot along the top. The guides were made from the Ferrari GTO roof.

Pic 2 - Of course chassis mods are required! They are minimal. The rear frame rails are notched out to the rear gearplate index slot flush with the rear deck. The tail of the gear plate gets a 60 degree undercut.

Next on the to do list is the forward panel of the rumble compartment, floor, and seat upholstery. I've still got half a ferrari left. :rolleyes: LOL!

After the rumble is complete the body will get the usual side fill treatment, a rear drop axle chassis, and I'm leaning towards a convertible "top up" look for a lid.

So far I've got four hours in this tub.
 

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Looking good! :thumbsup:
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanx Guyz!

videojimmy said:
very nice Bill... ever think about covering the back of the seat with a little thin fabric?
VJ- I had thought about fabric; but at some point my rigs go through the car wash for grease and grungous removal, as I do run them all. My stuff has to be wash and wear! LOL

I had planned on cutting up an old leather belt to investigate the possibilities for seating. Sort of a Jr High leather craft project. I magine I can still pound some tuck and roll pleats into some hide with out screwing it up. Vinyl was the obvious water proof choice but resists tooling impressions. I'll probably fudge a few attemts before I figure it out. I had also considered felt as this would mimic the old school factory mohair interiors. Too many choices. :freak:

Ed- My skill level either bud! I just keep cutting till it looks right or disappears
into a vat of goo. Gets rid of the evidence dont 'cha know! I never post my failures. They just get cut up for sectional rerpairs, or rendered down and sprayed on another car. ;)

Wingless- Thanks for the props! The hard part is behind me.

Jim- Actually I'm just standing on Phil's (Boss) shoulders on this one. He showed me the way by sacrificing an old Hotrod for the original rumble seat R&D. The tedious part is scribing out the rumble lid with out screwing up the seams. The frustrating part was designing the inboard guide tracks and keeping them identical so the lid doesnt sag to one side or the other.

Works good so far with just a light poke from your finger.

Hint: The relief in the tracks must extend well forward of the normal operating position to allow easy install and removal of the lid. As the lid moves forward the body widens out and you can pivot the lid for removal. I just got lucky there. Such will not be the case once the rumble compartment floor is installed on final assembly, as the lid will more than likely be captive. For now it provides the luxury of removing the lid while the rest of the body work is completed and access for spraying color inside and out. I was also fortunate the the pivot placement is ballanced properly over center so that the lid doesnt fly open when you accelerate or slam shut when you hit the brakes. I wouldnt want Reggie and Veronica to be decapitated when Archie pounds the brakes instead of the clutch cuz he was checkin' Betty's sweater. :p

Saftey first :thumbsup:
 

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Crazed Painter
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Bill,

That is Sweet! I'm inspired and going to my work area right now to work on a slot car. Well first just gonna stretch out on the couch and watch T.V. for a bit.

I have never used Easy Off before. Will try it. I use Pine Sol in a pickle jar or ELO (Easy Lift Off from the hobby store). I have removed paint off of my AW green and white Camaro but, the green paint still leaves a trace of tint....Hmmm to get an all white AW body maybe Easy Off will work? White cars always POP the decals and don't leave that fade through look like darker colors sometimes do.

Thanks, Bob
 

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Bill, that's AWESOME...

and a nice side note about this project, for others who might want to try it: if you can't get hold of an original Aurora Hot Rod or if you don't have the stones to cut one up (I did once, dunno if I still would) you can use a Dash Motorsports body. You got me thinking about locating one of them...

But lemme get this straight... this thing is gonna be functional?!? wow. I'd be impressed even if it was just glued in the open position.

By the way, for removing old paint from original Aurora bodies, have you ever tried **** N Span? It's been a while since I sang it's praises here, but it works wonders...



(sorry to those who have seen this pic a bazillion times :wave: )

--rick
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #10
Rick - High praise from the Dremel Master. Thank you!

Yes it's a fully functional rumble. :thumbsup:

Now for the record: All my deuce hacks are shells deemed unfit by others!
They all have some supposed catastrophic flaw that makes them undesirable to collectors.

It only took a couple hours on two different evenings to build the rumble. However I've been agonizing it it my mind for a couple of months prior to picking up my blade.

I will now hang my head in shame. :rolleyes: Like the dipstick I am, I didn't make any templates for the guide rails. I generally work freehand. I've learned most patterns never work out anyway due to some pretty large variances from car to car. The pieces have to be hand filed to attain the fit I like any way.

Regardless of my lame excuses, I should have made patterns; but when I'm on a roll and the chips are flying I hate to break stride just to scribble a little picture. D'oh!

Yes I remember these **** and Span pics and the "oh my gawd I muttered" under my breath. They really cant turn out much better than those two!:)

I use **** and span as well. I've found that there were/are so many different paints and brands that no one product is a magic wand. I don't jump straight to easy off. I have a least to most toxic procedure list that I follow. Gotta get good and mad first then I bring out the highly caustic stuff.
:mad:

As many have noted the easy off will, not might..."will" brittle-ize styrene! So do most cleaners on the "base" end of the PH scale.

Like Gear Buster sez, "If it can clean the grease off the shop floor, consider what it sucks out of your car bodies." GB was referring to Superclean at the time.

However my liquid styrene techniques tend to soften the bodies somewhat prior to curing. The end result is noticeably supple when compared to an easy offed body. It's a curious and positive by product of the process. Seems to revitalize even the crispiest cars.

Woah Bob! Easy off has a nasty habit of driving some pigments into the pores of the plastic. Especially lighter colors. Proceed with caution. When it does occur I try to carefully wet sand the offending pigment out. I've wondered if a Sonic cleaner would rattle out the remaining pigment from the pores???

BTW I do all my wet sanding from the couch. Some of my best stuff is couch inspired! LOL
 

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This car is going to be so sweet when it is completed, Bill!
I don't understand the agonizing over it though. You said yourself that if it doesn't work out well, then you simply make parts or billrene out of it. You could also repair it too. Small job with all of your skill, eh!

Will this car be yellow when done or will it get a different color sprayed on?
I really like your leather idea, too! In my minds eye, I can see light tan leather against the yellow. Very cool! :thumbsup:
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #12
The rumbler is gonna be our favorite color Joe. ;)

I'm gonna cook up an old vibe controller and try spraying that.

I've got a hankerin' to do some S'Lime green too. Currently trolling for one of those weirdo dump trucks in mediocre condition for a meltdown.

Picture a coupe done in Slime with some AFX fenders seamlessly molded on. Just popped into my head yesterday.

Perhaps I've lost my mind but the ideas keep coming, and I cant stop whittling.

Still havent tried the brighter yellow from the daredevil stuff yet. You may like that better than the creamy yellow. I'll get a test shot up this week sometime.
 

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Duke Dave of Sealand
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ParkRNDL said:
(sorry to those who have seen this pic a bazillion times :wave: )

--rick
But Rick it has inspried me a bazillion times.. Post it anytimes its a classic display of what can be done with a vetern slot car.


Dave
 

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Crazed Painter
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ParkRNDL said:
Bill, that's AWESOME...

and a nice side note about this project, for others who might want to try it: if you can't get hold of an original Aurora Hot Rod or if you don't have the stones to cut one up (I did once, dunno if I still would) you can use a Dash Motorsports body. You got me thinking about locating one of them...

But lemme get this straight... this thing is gonna be functional?!? wow. I'd be impressed even if it was just glued in the open position.

By the way, for removing old paint from original Aurora bodies, have you ever tried **** N Span? It's been a while since I sang it's praises here, but it works wonders...

--rick
**** N Span is now on my shopping list. Thanks!

Just got another easy and fast shipped order from Slots n Stuff after work tonight. Always smooth. Put a chassis under 1 of the 2 clear bodies ordered. Is this cool or what? :confused:









Again very nice rumble seat on a very cool car! :thumbsup: Bob
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #15
Interesting study!

Thanks Bob!

I've always been sweet on Aurora's Hot Rod. Just like the 1:1 Deuce, which has been customized every which way but loose over the last 75yrs; it suddenly dawned on me that one could hardly go wrong with mods to the Aurora Deuce. It's a simple design that readily lends itself to butchery. The whole thing started when I restored an old flatside vibrator and saw some potential for mischief. The ideas now come quicker than I can build them.

I never thought to buy one of those clear "Dash" re-pops for R&D. After seeing your post and pics it would have made life a little easier. The clear shell really provides X-ray vision into issues like how far you can go with post cutting before the gearplate binds? Whether or not the rumble seat was possible? Could I really get a flatside deuce body on a shaved T-jet chassis?

All moot points now as I just used the ole third eye, but it sure would have been nice to have the clear version at the time! D'oh! :freak:

I've still got a hankerin' to whittle up one of those ABS Dash versions when nobody is lookin' :devil:
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #16
Updates

Here's some detail pics and recent updates.

Pic 1 - Shows the the inner rumble guides bonded to the inside of the rear fender. Note the double thickness.

The rear gusset supports what's left of the screw post and reinforces the notoriously weak rear apron.

Pic 2 - You can clearly see how the lid sits when open. The rear chassis rails provide a fixed stop for the lid. This pic illustrates the required gearplate bevel and gives a good idea of where the rear wheels sit on the drop axle chassis.

Pic 3 - Still a little rough, but a good indicator of how the rear post is cut so the lid can sneak by. Obviously the screw is shortened. It holds quite well inspite of its appearance. The rear post, support gusset, guide tracks, rear apron, and inner fenders are all one continuous bond. After surviving a couple of major tumbles it's proven to be rock solid!

Pic 4 - Here's a good look at the relief cut on top of the guide track. Nuthin fancy here. It's just got to smooth and equal height on either side.

Pic 5 - There she sits. LMAO when I cropped this shot. There's a bit of extra fill on the hood that'll have to be cut back to drop the snout. The side fills are roughed in. I'd like to drop the tail a bit more, but that'll move the gear plate up into the area I left for the rumble compartment floor/filler.
 

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Your craftsmanship work is just plain Sweet! You got some skills. Bob

I did some work on a AFX woodie but, Bruce Gavins has if for a bit now. It kinda looks like a phone booth pickup truck. I would also like to make one of these without the wood grain. Someday.... Chopping up the Woodie intailed more than I thought it would once started because, I don't like to do anything half ars. Bob
 

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Model Murdering
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Hello Operator? Dial AFX-COOL! Please

Thanks Bob,

Just when ya thought ya'd seen it all. That's one "phine phone booth Phord". That's a great way to use the Woody's height.

I can see it as a pick up or a coupe.

I dont see why a guy couldnt scribe the panels out on the corners and flip the panels inside out if you want to go smooth side out for a woodless phone booth. I think that's a great idea.

Ha ha ! Looks like your gonna have to do four versions now. A coupe, and a pick up in both smooth and wood.

Here's a shot of a Woody I killed a while back, sorry to the folks who have seen it 8000 times already.
 

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Bill Hall said:
Thanks Bob,

Just when ya thought ya'd seen it all. That's one "phine phone booth Phord". That's a great way to use the Woody's height.

I can see it as a pick up or a coupe.

I dont see why a guy couldnt scribe the panels out on the corners and flip the panels inside out if you want to go smooth side out for a woodless phone booth. I think that's a great idea.

Ha ha ! Looks like your gonna have to do four versions now. A coupe, and a pick up in both smooth and wood.

Here's a shot of a Woody I killed a while back, sorry to the folks who have seen it 8000 times already.
O.K. everyone else has seen your woody 8000 times but, this is a first for me. Sweet! If I win the lottery I want one of those. :cool:

It is nice to see other peoples stuff as it gives you an idea of what can be done.

I also have all my Dads Hot Rod Mags from the 60s and 70s that I look at alot. Have also been able to pick up older mags fairly cheap at Auctions and swap meets. Old is good. :)

I found this Yellow Model A on the bay in a junk body lot and it was dirty and looked like nothing. Cleaned it up and added Mooneyes to it. The front rims need to be redone. I just painted over the JL pull-back chrome. Going to strip the chrome off and air brush them for a clean look. The crappy rim edge does have one thing going for it. you can paint it white and make the allusion of white walls....Yeah baby! The top is not glued on...it just has the glass holding it in. See my gallery for pics...

Bob
 

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Looking good guys...

Some mighty fine jalopy-choppin goin on roun'hyar Bob&Bill :dude: :dude:

BTW..... Bill, I have used nylon stocking material for HO hotrod tonneau covers before. Maybe it could work for the fabric on your rumble seat? Either applied or even used to "imprint" a putty like surface.

But stay away from the fishnets... That's a whole other kind of HO and only "certain guys" can pull off that look!!!! :p :p
 
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