Joined
·
1,465 Posts
It seems resin does not glue well with the testors glue. W are you guys using to stick it to cars? I got my weired Jack stuff and it won't stick very well with testors bottle glue.
Resin and glue?
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Nope, Testors liquid wont cut the mustard. It's a solvent not really a glue. It's strictly meant for fusing styrene parts together. Think of it as a chemical welder
For resin you have to use an actual bonder like super glue. Cryanocilicates, AKA super glue are also avaliable in a two part system with a spritzable catalyst. Many favor two part epoxys like the JB products especially when bonding two different species
I have reached the level where I can glue my fingers together with durn near any product. :freak:
For resin you have to use an actual bonder like super glue. Cryanocilicates, AKA super glue are also avaliable in a two part system with a spritzable catalyst. Many favor two part epoxys like the JB products especially when bonding two different species
I have reached the level where I can glue my fingers together with durn near any product. :freak:
Joined
·
244 Posts
I use more resin a drop works wonders,or thick gel superglue when not in a high impact area.
I depend on 2 types...
As Bill, DRAGU, and HRM have said... Epoxy resin types are very good. Super types when not in a high impact area.
Personally I've had good luck with Zap-A-Gap. They have a thick formula instant CA+ type "super" glue. It will definitely cloud clear glass parts though, so be careful. At certain times I even use Z-A-G like a tack weld. Very small amount just to barely hold the part in place and then I follow with an epoxy to actually finish the job.
and...
I also use a 2 part Devcon 5 minute epoxy (or similar brand), but make sure you get the clear drying one because most times you dont want that nasty tan stuff. Hobby stores usually carry an A and B bottle version. Bottles I highly recommend over the dual syringe plunger or tubes (both can leak and just picking them up you can get them all over your hands and whatever you put them down on). Bottles are the way to go as far as measuring amounts too. There are also some brand epoxies that offer a range of longer cure times 5min. 10min 30min. etc.
I ran out of my bottle supply and got tubes recently (all they had) and look at this mess. Despite re-capping tightly they always seem to leak....
As Bill, DRAGU, and HRM have said... Epoxy resin types are very good. Super types when not in a high impact area.
Personally I've had good luck with Zap-A-Gap. They have a thick formula instant CA+ type "super" glue. It will definitely cloud clear glass parts though, so be careful. At certain times I even use Z-A-G like a tack weld. Very small amount just to barely hold the part in place and then I follow with an epoxy to actually finish the job.
and...
I also use a 2 part Devcon 5 minute epoxy (or similar brand), but make sure you get the clear drying one because most times you dont want that nasty tan stuff. Hobby stores usually carry an A and B bottle version. Bottles I highly recommend over the dual syringe plunger or tubes (both can leak and just picking them up you can get them all over your hands and whatever you put them down on). Bottles are the way to go as far as measuring amounts too. There are also some brand epoxies that offer a range of longer cure times 5min. 10min 30min. etc.
I ran out of my bottle supply and got tubes recently (all they had) and look at this mess. Despite re-capping tightly they always seem to leak....
I use a 2 part epoxy for gluing posts into my master before making the inside mold. I also use it to thicken up thin spots when I am in a hurry.
The best glue for resin is the resin it was made from. The only pain is you have to wait a little for it to thiken up before applying it. It can be applied water thin but when this thin it only seems to work for small details like a gas cap.
The last regular size Indy car I made I made a paper thin casting of a 1/43rd mold then used scissors to cut out sections. Applied tape to the inside to hold it together then spot glued it with resin. Once I had all the sections tacked I then used resin to fill all the seems, Then sanded it down. This worked very well and other than the time waiting for the resin to thicken. Whenever I need resin to glue a body or work a new one I normally cast a body and use the left over resin as my glue.
Yo do need to waer gloves or have a very good hand stone for cleaning your hands. I use the hand stone as I don't like working with gloves.
Roger Corrie
The best glue for resin is the resin it was made from. The only pain is you have to wait a little for it to thiken up before applying it. It can be applied water thin but when this thin it only seems to work for small details like a gas cap.
The last regular size Indy car I made I made a paper thin casting of a 1/43rd mold then used scissors to cut out sections. Applied tape to the inside to hold it together then spot glued it with resin. Once I had all the sections tacked I then used resin to fill all the seems, Then sanded it down. This worked very well and other than the time waiting for the resin to thicken. Whenever I need resin to glue a body or work a new one I normally cast a body and use the left over resin as my glue.
Yo do need to waer gloves or have a very good hand stone for cleaning your hands. I use the hand stone as I don't like working with gloves.
Roger Corrie
I like to carefully clean the two areas to be glued to remove any oily substances that may be left by resins like Alumilite, etc. Then, (if possible) i lightly sand those specific areas to get them a little rough. (Take care to stay within the contact areas). Small amount of super glue and apply pressure. For spoilers, i will apply a small amount of super glue to the posts, position posts and let set. Then, if the spoiler post holes go completely through the trunk, i apply a small amount of resin from the bottom and let set. Resin applied to the posts from the top can be tricky and leave you with little mud-mounds of resin that need to be sanded down or cut off. Super glue should leave you with a clean flat surface around the posts. The resin from the bottom provides additional strength.
-noir
-noir
Joined
·
1,677 Posts
Dragula said:
Really? I use alumilite and have had real good luck with it. Superglue sticks real well, and even quality acrylics like testors model master stick right on. But I also sand my stuff with 400 grit and wash in soap and water before doing any work also...
I recommend CYA adhesive (CYanoAcrylate).....medium viscosity (gap-filling).T-Jet Racer said:
The resin used for my interior kits is Vagabond 36XXX. This bonds well to most hardshell slot bodies with CYA. Tack-glue the interior plate into position with CYA and accelerator, then add some CYA beading underneath to solidify.
And as posted just above, I also recommend acrylic model paint for my interior kits.
WJ
http://altair-four.com/rsl/bh.htm
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
They use a lot of filler to cut the mix .Make go futher .try contact Dan or scott Wilson at 1-269-944-1758 ask them about "Alumilite" they got them started .their resin has no fillers and way less smell too. They make a lot of resins for other people and put their names on it. Tell them Big Kevin Masters sent you :thumbsup:Dragula said:
Dascar Plastics LLC.
5610 E. Napier Ave.
Benton Harbor, MI. 49022 USA
Phone: 1-269-944-1758
I use thick super with quick set for instance results
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!