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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best way to remove anodizing??

I tried easy off oven cleaner on a friends KSG and I think I ruined the look,,now all the aluminum is dull gray and black spots on it..The gray polished up alright but the black I can't do anything with..

Thanks for the help,,

Dusty Dean
 

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Dusty
How long did you let the parts sit in the Easy-off?
I let em sit about 7 minutes. The parts are almost always black or dark gray.
I used some real fine grit sandpaper 1000 grit or so then take the polishing wheel from the dremel to it with some Mother's, then hand polish it the rest with a soft cloth. Sometime the parts are stubborn but that method usually works for me.

You should check with Rick W., he stripped his entire KSG down and polished it all a while back.
 

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if u leave it on to long it will turn the parts black.... the main thing i have noticed is about every two minutes the oven cleaner loses it power.. so i take the parts and rinse them off.... then i put a new layer of cleaner on... doing this every two to 3 minutes allows u to see when the parts start to turn black.... also 6065 aluminum turn black alot easier.. this is softer then the better strionger 7075.... i use mothers polish when i am done for a mirror like finish..

it is key when polishing aluminum to only go in one direction.. meaning up and down or side to side.. if u swirl or go all directions it will not polish correctly.... this isnt just my opinion i was told this buy a promotoer at a car show for mothers... it has something to do with the pours in the aluminum
 

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If you rub the black off before you rince the part or let it dry it will come off easier ...Or look up Caswell Plating.com on the net and they sell an actual anodize stripper...Plus there is a lot of good info about anodizeing on that site....
 

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Removing anodizing: teaspoon of drano to one quart water.. chemicals in drano are alomost the same as anodizing shops use in removing the dye..
 

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KOZ could you post some step by step instructions for mixing and useingf this on a part?
I know a lot of folks who ask about this, (myself included) . and a full method to follow is a great thing to know.

Also as for sanding alluminum...burbs is correct, acctualy what he said goes for any, what is commonly refered to as a.. "class A surface"
It may seem to take a lot more time, but when working any part to a smooth finnish, wearhter it be for poliish or paint.
allways sand in one direction only...your efforts will be rewarded in the end.
Regardless of the type of sandpaper or polish you are useing it has grit,the grit may be very tiny, but it is there.
You are useing that grit to turn the surface, which under heavy magnifacation, has the appearence of a moon scape, to that of a window pane.
The smoother it gets the shinnier it will become.
The abrasive material you use weather it is 100 grit sandpaper, or mothers polish, leaves varrious size scratches in the surface of the material...obviously with a polish like mothers paste, those scratches are microscopic, but they are indeed there.
by maintaining one direction of appliy the friction/abrasive material. all those scratche become oriented in the same direction, and the material, developes an uniform pattern.
this is way when you see a custom bike or car with polished alluminum. one part may look shinny regardless of the angle you look upon it from....the part that has an odd sort of haze to it from certain angles has been sanded and polished from any anngle or worse had someone use a rotary type tool WAY to early on it the process..rotary tools should be used at either the very start to remove heavey scale and finishhes, then followed by uni-directional sanding , stepping down in grade to the finest posible grit, or as a final step, buy put a light ammoutn of finnish polish and only letting the tool glide over the surface, noty even holding all it's own weight at low speeds.

You can remove anodizing by hand, but it takes MAJOR time, and paitence.
I used to spend my evenings during the winter, in my walk out basement polishing parts for both myself, and my friends drag bikes. I did this, because I was the guy who hated to work with the bottom end of the motor, and thus the tranny, so I got to be covered in grey slime all winter while the others wallowed in grease.
HINT even if using palin old sandpaper, and no chemicals....use some kind of gloves and a simple dust mask, and eye protection nothing specal, the cheep stuff is fine.
I almost put myself into the hospital, doing this stuff while laid off, I was polishing about 18 hrs a day in a t shirt and gym shorts, with a drink buy my side....looked like some early botched attempt at kiss makeup, all covered in a silver hue, drink included....Yes kiddies, for the purposes of THIS story, it was.uh .pepsi..yes! pepsi...LOL!

Doc said I probably ingested about 3 pounds of alluminum dust, plus a lot of the aluminum m dust paricles had been absorbed into my bloodstream through the skin, mostly, through my fingers.

My hands worked and appeared to be, like the old arthritus foundation comercials, sore, couldnt close or full open them at all for a couple weeks...felt like someone had smashed them with a hammer while I sleept.
Not trying to scare anyone, I was doing the equivelent of about 3 motorcyles worth of parts, were are talking little parts that might equal a points cover or two...but use some protection and avoid a bad situation..little bit goes a long way..and if nothing else DONT follow my example...LOL!
 

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On Alum. You go either up and down or side to side. There are abrasives in all polishes.. I happen to work for a Auto apperance Co. I myself use a rubbing compound that we have. Its aggressive. As far as removing the dye. I havent tried it yet. But I polished the nose on my DO car just using the compound and a micro fiber. But if you go around in circles it will scratch the Alum.
 

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04E-There;s really nothing to removing the dye,like i mentioned 1 teaspoon of granulated drano to quart water,i would recommend to do just a few parts at a time so you just remove the dye and not erode the aluminum.. you'll see the dye just bubble off ..wear rubber gloves,drano is some pretty harsh stuff..just keep pulling the part out and checking it,then rinse in a neutral bath..water...

once the dye is removed you can either tumble the parts or polish or scotch-brite them..Personally i prefer the scotch brite look on the aluminum before anodizing.. polished or tumbled parts sometime have that really cheesy looking shiny finish,but it's all about what you like..

Note: just leave part in long enough to remove the dye it happens quickly!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies guys,,,now I will know for next time!! I should have asked BEFORE I ruined the hubs,,8 hours was a tad too long to leave them soakin.....LOL

Oh well,,
Dusty Dean
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not my car...I like RED and I leave it on!!!!!!!

Glad to see ya back racing..now maybe when I come up and race I won't get picked on so much,,they will be on you!!!
 

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Dusty,
You still going to the ARCOR open??
if so when are you leaving to go down there?
I plan on leaving Thursday morning.
 

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I have done my own anodizing, and there are some chemicals that you can use to strip the black/gray residue off after you strip them. I always use a solution of Red Devil Lye to strip them. I will have to look at the composition of the other compound, but i use it as a pre-anodizing dip. PM me and i will give you some tips. I also do anodizing.
 

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erock1331 said:
Valdosta, how much do you charge to anodize all the alum on a pan car?
And what colors do you have?
Yes, same here - What colors and how much for a set of IRS caster blocks, KSG shock mount, Servo mounts and pod plates?? Do you have any pictures of your work???

Thanks :thumbsup:
Tom ~ [email protected]
 

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EHR said:
Can anodized alum. be spray painted?
Can it? Yes but it wont last in less you sand it first....Think of Anodize as like a thick clear coat, It fill's in all the pores and if you paint over it without sanding it to roughin it up it will just chip off.....
 
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