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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
... pin-vise ...


Thank You for your very kind replies.
:rolleyes: ;)

Question, whats a pin vise, do you have a picture and can you hook it up to the dremel ?

Good question.

A pin-vise is a small hand-held drilling tool. It uses "Exacto"-
style vise-sleeves, into which are inserted very small precision
drill bits. This tool works best when drilling very small precise
holes ... carefully, slowly. On some, one end features a spinning
knob (or collar) to place your index finger upon ... while guiding
the drilling process, spinning the tool with the rest of your hand.

I have tried an older dulled carbide bit (a #60 ... tiny for sure)
in my Dremel, set at its lowest speed. The darn bit broke almost
instantly after contact (in low rpm) on a much-older test-casting.

So for any bit small enough to be used in a pin-vise, I recommend
the slow but steady (and safely controlled) hand-drilling method.
Your results may vary.


My preferred pin-vise is a DELTA set from Lowes. I also have one
of my father's special vintage 'p-v' sets ... all the various bits are
tungsten-carbide (he worked as a tool & Dye maker before I was
born ... and he'd saved every one of his specialized tools.)


Well anyway ... Walthers has them ... Lowes, Ace, and a host of
numerous model-hobby suppliers.
:thumbsup:
Jeffrey



 

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Hey Jeff,

I've always used a Variable Speed HandDrill for drilling out Headlights and Taillights to set my Rhinestones.
Even Side Safety Lights on some of my Tankers.
You can control the speed much better and the Torque of the HandDrill completes the job in just a few turns of the bit.
Start your hole with a 1/16" bit for good dead centering, and enlarge it as necessary.
Shaped High Speed Cutters, pear shaped and Cone Shaped will leave a nice bevel around the hole you drill.


Tamiya, AutoAir, AutoBorne and a German company begining with H, all offer Transparent water based acrylics for filling in the taillights on chrome HW Bumpers.

All these little touches, if you'll take the time to add them to your Customs, will stand out against others that don't have them.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
Keeping the ZING in CustomiZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

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I've used epoxy as a lens as well. The car needs to be angled right while it sets up so as to create a slight buldge in round lenses. The large flat ones I set so as to let the epoxy settle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
... more great info ... thank you ...





Thank You ... ALL of you ... for your input.
;)


'Hooter', nice idea about those epoxy lenses.

Bob, your idea sure sounds like a winner.

:thumbsup:

Jeffrey



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·




George, very glad you like the rig. Thank you kindly,
for the praise ... that monster has been a work-of-love.

:thumbsup:

Jeffrey



 

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Yet another gem of a thread brought to you by the good folks at Dreem Designz!

It very much deserves to be raised from the dead.

And that scratch-built big rig is from another World!!!
I assume it's about 1:64th scale?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
....................
And that scratch-built big rig is from another World!!!
I assume it's about 1:64th scale?

Thank You once again for your thoughtful compliments, Dave.
:rolleyes: ;)

Yes, the truck is an accurate 1:64 scale. I used a scale-math formula,
as well as precision 1:64 drafting scales, to measure everything on it.
Below are much-earlier (WIP) images of it, with some of my "Kuztomz".





 

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Wow, NICE additional pix!!!

So I have a question.
I don't know a lot about big rigs, but why is it that some (like yours) have a ton of space between the trailer and the tractor???
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wow, NICE additional pix!!!

So I have a question.
I don't know a lot about big rigs, but why is it that some
(like yours) have a ton of space between the trailer and the tractor???

Thank You once again, Dave.
Let me send you a PM so that I'm able to better answer your question.
I'm not all-together sure of the full answer, but I have some thoughts.
:rolleyes: :cool: ;)




 

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Wow, NICE additional pix!!!

So I have a question.
I don't know a lot about big rigs, but why is it that some (like yours) have a ton of space between the trailer and the tractor???
Cause some people thinks it looks cool! But for fuel economy, the closer a van trailer is to the back of the cab the better.
You get 80K gross weight, split like this. 12K on the front and 34K each on tractor and trailer tandems, there are exceptions but you get the point. Your allowed only so much weight per axle. A stretched out truck might look kool but you're not going to be able to get the "allowable" amount of weight on the front axle. So to be legal on the other axles means less payload, less payload means less payola. Stretched and lowered is whats hot now it seems. Some look way cool, some don't! To each their own, beauty is after all in the eyes of the beholder! Oh man, sorry about going off the deep on this one! :wave:
 

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Cause some people thinks it looks cool! But for fuel economy, the closer a van trailer is to the back of the cab the better.
You get 80K gross weight, split like this. 12K on the front and 34K each on tractor and trailer tandems, there are exceptions but you get the point. Your allowed only so much weight per axle. A stretched out truck might look kool but you're not going to be able to get the "allowable" amount of weight on the front axle. So to be legal on the other axles means less payload, less payload means less payola. Stretched and lowered is whats hot now it seems. Some look way cool, some don't! To each their own, beauty is after all in the eyes of the beholder! Oh man, sorry about going off the deep on this one! :wave:
Not at all sir, very helpful!

And a hearty welcome to the new guy from Kenner (wherever that may be! ;))
Lum :wave:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·



Hey Friends ... Thank You, Thank You ... for being
so helpful and kind to each other. This is so much fun !!
:rolleyes: ;)

Great info, "wildbill...". Thank you for clarifying that answer.
:thumbsup:




 
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