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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
thank you for the explanation.
I have been considering getting a resin printing 3D printer.
I just don't know if I am going to be able to create files for it to print from.
you seem to have found sources for the items you print?
or are you writing files yourself?
thank you for the advice and yes, liking what you are doing with both tracks.
I get most of my files from a website called "Thingiverse". They're all free, you just download the files, open them in your slicer program and (once you confirm the file will print properly), save it to removable media and stick that in your printer. You just have to remember guys put their files up for free, so it may or may not work right.

IOW: "you get what you paid for"......

You have to be a bit creative when searching for files. For example, if you type "slot car" into their search engine, you get some returns, but not a lot. Type in HO railroad and you get more results than you can manage. I just keep in mind I need to search both for exactly what I want and broadly in a category that may have what i want. As another example: I'm going to print off an Adco trailer:

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for the plateau area as a place where ambulance and fire truck crews can rest while a race is on. If you search for that under "adco" or "slot car", it won't show up. If you search for "HO train", it shows up. The Train guys are just crazy about producing 3d items. The "RC guys" are also rabid for 3d, so searching RC car turns up lots of useful items. You just may have to scale up (or down) to get your scale size. You just have to be careful when scaling things down, as you may loose details or the printer may not have a small enough nozzle to print finer lines. You can "nozzle down", to keep detail, but a smaller nozzle means even longer print times.

You can also find other "free" stl/3D files on the web, but you have to dig for them. Only one I've found where all the files are free is thingiverse. The rest all may have free files, but they're mixed in with all their "pay to play" files. Prices are all over the chart for pay ones. "Pay" files can be anything from a couple pennies to hundreds of dollars. All depends on what the creator wants to charge.

I would suggest you have a read of the link I posted above before laying down your cash. It lays out the main differences between FDM and Resin printers.

In a nutshell, resin printers are more expensive to buy, more expensive to run and have some limitations compared to FDM (like: only a couple color choices of resin, can't use a resin tank until empty, etc).
 

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Discussion Starter #122 (Edited)
Well, I finally got around to stripping down the two “dyno-mite” fuellers. Sample pic:

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one was pretty clean, the other looked like it had been through a mud pit and a big ball of hair.

I got them both cleaned up and dropped them on the “proto” drag strip.

Holy carp, are these things slooooowwwww!

Now, one almost doesn’t move at all, so its new tires needed and I think the “blade” style pin is scraping the track, so more to check out there.

The other car zips down the course (using anywhere between 16-18v), but it starts out slow and only gets a little bit faster as it goes. By the time it gets to the end, its going a decent clip, but not even close to what one of my afx, tomy or life like “inline box motor” cars.

Are all “pancake” motors this slow? I mean, these are shockingly slow.

I gone though them a couple times now and they’re clean as a whistle, all the contact areas are clean and shiny and everything that shoukd be oiled is oiled...
 

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I still advise you to get on Nitro Slots.
there is a 4-gear class being run starting Thursday and they are NOT slugs.
thank you for the info on 3-D printing
 

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Discussion Starter #124
I still advise you to get on Nitro Slots.
there is a 4-gear class being run starting Thursday and they are NOT slugs.
thank you for the info on 3-D printing
I've had a look, not really my jam. LIttle too narrow focused for me, I'm not into "competing".

I'm just building stuff to have fun, which is not to say I haven't picked up a tip or two lurking on that site...
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Well, nearly 48 total hours, but most of the stands are done:

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Thats a total of 6 different pieces glued together, but I think it looks pretty good!

:)

Now to print the roof and the people. I’ll also have to “re-print” the stairways, but I only need to do one of those. There are railings, but those are already done, just not attached yet.

I might take a couple days break from it though. I’m getting a little tired of waiting/watching for days to get something off the printer. Not to mention, the room gets bloody warm while printing and I don’t deal with heat well (on average, Canadians are more used to dealing with cold than heat ;) ). I’m not what you would consider impatient, but a guy can only take so much of something before you need some time away....
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Trying to sort out fencing and barriers. Tried a few “test prints:

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the barrier fencing is just about spot on I think. Fence mesh is too fine at that scale to print, so I’ll just use door/window screen for that.

The concrete dividers were actually printed out as barriers and fence too, but ended up so small they were only useful as concrete dividers. I have to try a couple different styles of concrete barriers. These are “ok”, but not quite what I want.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #129
GD printer!

Well, I guess it might be the filament.

Using a different brand and it's "blobbing so badly its ripping the print off the print bed!

Grrrrrrrrrr........
 

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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
Printed off a lot of the track wall/fence sections and glued them together. No mesh yet, but I have it picked out. I just have to go buy a roll so I have enough to do it all in one shot.

I also got tired of the multi-day prints and started with some small stuff. Namely, light posts:

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I started with several designs that were hollow, to allow running wiring in them. But in order to print them to a scale that didn't look waaaaay out of whack with the rest of the track, I was either loosing detail or the hollow sections would not be able to printed in anything but solid. This was the last design I tried:

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I got it to a scale that "almost" looked right and still had some hollow in it, but printing enough of them would have taken something like 300 hrs and 60 meters of filament! Nope, wasn't doing that!

So what I settled on was a street lamp "head" from another design and a section of steel brake line. That gives me a had to put and led in and a strong, hollow "pole" to mount it to the track surface. It looks quite tall in the pictures, and it is too tall. But the plan is to drill a hole through the table surface and then insert the street lamp. That allows me to fine tune the height (to get it looking a little more in scale) and it also allows me hide the wiring under the table.

Right now, I've printing off 50 lamp housings. More than enough and it only took a couple hours.

Next up, another long print:

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Next weekend, I'm going to print a "rock shed" for where the terrain overhangs the track:

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I try to wait for weekends for multi-day prints because I'm on "time shifting" for my electric power. In a nutshell, the prime rate for power is 19 cents/KW and the "off" hours are 8 cents/KW. Off hours are 11 PM to 7 AM and weekends from 11 pm friday to 7 am Monday. Prime is also reduced after 4 PM, but it only drops to something like 14 cents/KW. Considering that a 3D printer is alll about plastic melting temperatures, it's worth my while to wait for the off peak hours. Which means under 8 hour prints I can do through the week and multi-day prints are best left for weekends.

Here's a few real life examples of rock/snow sheds for those whole live in "flat lands":

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The top pic is from New Zealand (or Australia, can't remember offhand). I'm also looking at that water feature and getting ideas........lol!

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #131
There we go:

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That actually looks better than I thought it would.

Street lamps are 6-8 meters high around these parts and that's a 1/64 scale 8 meters tall.

I like it!

:)

Those will get installed around the track and there will be "flood lights" for the pit area and front straight. The stands will have their own lighting installed in the roof structure (not made yet).
 

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Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
and so it begins:

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Kinda looks like a bunch of :"F's"....which is kind of a hint towards how I feel about all these hours and hours of printing right now!

LOL!

:)
 

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Dont burn yourself out! I have been enjoying the progress and build up.

Can you post up a very very short video of the printing process - so we can share you pain? 🤙
 

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Discussion Starter #134 (Edited)
Dont burn yourself out! I have been enjoying the progress and build up.

Can you post up a very very short video of the printing process - so we can share you pain? 🤙
“Short” would have to be 5-10 mins long to see anything and even then, it would only be like a .2 mm thick line....yeesh.

I’m probably making it harder on myself than it needs to be by doing a full bed print at once. I just can’t seem to start a print looking at all that empty print bed space and thinking I’m “wasting“ it. Of course, the more items you drop on the print bed, the longer it takes.

When I was refining the size of the light post housings (so the hole would fit the 3/16 brake line poles) It would take roughly 10 minutes per housing. That should give you a rough idea of length.

As well, the taller/thicker the item is, the longer it takes to build it up.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #135 (Edited)
Well, getting to be the time for my least favorite part of building models/etc:

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Paint.

Ugh.

Mostly because there's only one way to do it: slow, precise and fiddly.

It does make things come alive though. That may look poorly done, but it's only the first coat.....
 

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Discussion Starter #136
3 more roof panels, then roof billboards (that's only a 2 hr print job) and we're almost done printing the pit garages:

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There is no floor in the back part of hte garage, so I'll have to make that in Tinkercad. Easy peasy, it's just a rectangle of the right thickness. I'm "undecided" on whether or not to make slots in the floor. It would be useful for keeping slot cars in there, but I'm currently thinking I'm just going to make it a static diorama type of deal. You know: cars, crew, toolboxes, etc.

3D printing is certainly an exercise in patience though....looks like another 24-30 hrs before tha last piece of the pit garage is done. That's not counting making a floor and printing it out either....:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #137
Ugh, it's been a while since I painted something this small:

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I think my eyes are going crossed! lol!

It's pretty small overall. For reference, the spacebar on the keyboard is bigger!

Believe it or not, it looks much better in real life. The picture is zoomed in to a level that you won't really see in person. .

Chopper will be an overall yellow and red paint scheme. I'm cutting in the details first, then the main colors will go on.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Yep, I like it:

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Not bad for something that used to be a roll of plastic "string"!

You can also see in that last pic that I've started the fencing:

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Little sloppy looking right now, but that was just getting the base of it stuck to the uprights. Now that it's attached, I can start gluing the rest of it down and shape it to the way I want it.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #139 (Edited)
working on the scale people:
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That's pretty close to a good scale in relation to the vehicles. Hard to tell with the camera zoomed in at 4X, but the detail is actually pretty good for fresh off the printer. That's a woman standing with one hand on hip, jeans, blouse and hair pulled back. A little cleanup and paint will make it just about perfect.

:)
 
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