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Is there a reccommended size for the rear pod spacers on a 1/10 pan car? I am currently running the edge chassis with a .63 fiberglass t-plate.
 

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I'm assuming by pod spacers you mean the spacers that mount under the t-bar to attach the pod. I use .080" spacers. They are those countersunk aluminum washers.
 

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I usually just use the associated plastic spacers.. PN asc4526.. then I use some really thin HPI shims on top of that if it needs more... ..Usually with a .063 t-bar my car is good to go with just the spacers.. When I use a springsteel t-bar I use the Silva t-bar spacers..
 

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Basically just to account for vaiation in the thickness of the t-plate..

For instance IF I have a .063 t-plate and the associated spacers make the rear pod graphite level with the chassis... IF I switched to a THICKER .075 t-plate it would cause the rear plate to sit lower than the chassis.. So I run thinner ones for the thicker plate.. OR If I run a springsteel t-plate you use the thicker ones to keep the pod from being higher than the rest of the car... since the pivot balls bolt on top of the t-plate you have to adjjust for the variance in sizes...

*** 99 times out of 100 I use a .063 plate.. So I simply just use the associated spacers..
 

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Basically just to account for vaiation in the thickness of the t-plate..

For instance IF I have a .063 t-plate and the associated spacers make the rear pod graphite level with the chassis... IF I switched to a THICKER .075 t-plate it would cause the rear plate to sit lower than the chassis.. So I run thinner ones for the thicker plate.. OR If I run a springsteel t-plate you use the thicker ones to keep the pod from being higher than the rest of the car... since the pivot balls bolt on top of the t-plate you have to adjjust for the variance in sizes...

*** 99 times out of 100 I use a .063 plate.. So I simply just use the associated spacers..
So what do you do in the case of the KSG where the rear steer slugs are .100" ??

I've been basically putting a .020" shim under the cross brace mount and under both t-plate pivot balls to raise up the t-plate just enough so that the bottom pod plate is level with the bottom of the chassis. Otherwise when running a .063 T-plate, the lower pod plate would be lower than the chassis.

Is there a better way to deal with this ?
 

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You can shim under the t-plate where it mounts to the main chassis, but that affects the roll center of the car.
Yeah -- but if the KSG rear steer slugs are .100" you are kind of stuck with doing that, right ???
 

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KSG did those .100 spacers for a reason..
 

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KSG did those .100 spacers for a reason..
Please elaborate...

So are you saying the intent is then to actually run it with the bottom pod plate LOWER than the bottom of the chassis plate ? not level ??
 

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I'm curious.

Why this insistance on getting the pod plate 'exactly' the same level
as the chassis plate?
Are you thinking the car will be a piece of crap if it isn't?
What are we using for theory, that makes it imperative to have them
perfectly aligned?

Because it comes that way from the builder, certainly does not mean
that it "has" to be that way...
Is the stock Hyperdrive chassis, the "only" way it will ever be fast?
Anyone seen one of Frankie's? :drunk:

When you consider all of the modifications, and all of the various
adjustments, that people make differently from car to car, driver to driver,
surely people can't think that this is an "absolute"....:confused:

When you buy the car, and it has for example, an .063" glass T-plate,
are you thinking that that is the only thing the builder says will work?
Then why do we all go to the plate de jour?

I'm just curious where this thought process comes from? :eek:
 

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I'm curious.

Why this insistance on getting the pod plate 'exactly' the same level
as the chassis plate?
Are you thinking the car will be a piece of crap if it isn't?
What are we using for theory, that makes it imperative to have them
perfectly aligned?

Because it comes that way from the builder, certainly does not mean
that it "has" to be that way...
Is the stock Hyperdrive chassis, the "only" way it will ever be fast?
Anyone seen one of Frankie's? :drunk:

When you consider all of the modifications, and all of the various
adjustments, that people make differently from car to car, driver to driver,
surely people can't think that this is an "absolute"....:confused:

When you buy the car, and it has for example, an .063" glass T-plate,
are you thinking that that is the only thing the builder says will work?
Then why do we all go to the plate de jour?

I'm just curious where this thought process comes from? :eek:

Well.. I'm curious too as to the insistance that the lower pod plate be level with the bottom of the chassis plate. If the lower pod plate is .020 or .030" lower than the chassis plate, then what does that do the the car handling ??
 

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I dont believe running the lower od plate lower due to spacer - slug thickness will affect the car much at all as it does not change roll center because the movement axis of the pod hasnt changed. all it realy changes is the ride height and that can be changed with the ride height adjusters if necassary.
 

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Can't back up my answers but, here is what i heard

If you POD is (higher) THE THE CHASSIS (LESS SPACERS) more rear bite

If your Pod is Lower then the chassis equals rear more free.
 
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