So what do you do in the case of the KSG where the rear steer slugs are .100" ??Basically just to account for vaiation in the thickness of the t-plate..
For instance IF I have a .063 t-plate and the associated spacers make the rear pod graphite level with the chassis... IF I switched to a THICKER .075 t-plate it would cause the rear plate to sit lower than the chassis.. So I run thinner ones for the thicker plate.. OR If I run a springsteel t-plate you use the thicker ones to keep the pod from being higher than the rest of the car... since the pivot balls bolt on top of the t-plate you have to adjjust for the variance in sizes...
*** 99 times out of 100 I use a .063 plate.. So I simply just use the associated spacers..
Why this insistance on getting the pod plate 'exactly' the same level
as the chassis plate?
Are you thinking the car will be a piece of crap if it isn't?
What are we using for theory, that makes it imperative to have them
Because it comes that way from the builder, certainly does not mean
that it "has" to be that way...
Is the stock Hyperdrive chassis, the "only" way it will ever be fast?
Anyone seen one of Frankie's? :drunk:
When you consider all of the modifications, and all of the various
adjustments, that people make differently from car to car, driver to driver,
surely people can't think that this is an "absolute"....
When you buy the car, and it has for example, an .063" glass T-plate,
are you thinking that that is the only thing the builder says will work?
Then why do we all go to the plate de jour?
I'm just curious where this thought process comes from?