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Discussion Starter #3
Well since it will be applied to resin.....
Do you think it will affect that?
-Jim
 

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Well since it will be applied to resin.....
Do you think it will affect that?
-Jim
Quick answer: NO! But don't take my word for it....test, test and....test. Lacquer won't even hurt resin.

If it works, then I know what I'm taking about, if not, then I'm full of crap.

ha9001-
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good deal, Thank you I appreciate it sir! :thumbsup:
-Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What would be the best way to apply this?
From the inside with tape on the outside or ......???:confused:
-Jim
 

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Thats a cool looking ship Jim and I hope your build goes well!

This stuff is designed to fill directly from the tube's spout into the window hole. Its thick and so you can 'draw' the window by moving around the edge and pulling the 'drip' towards the middle. What you are left with looks like the hoop from those bubbles we had as kids. The glue forms a membrane that dries clear. Be sure to avoid capturing and air bubble because they won't break while the glue dries and you'll have a void. If one forms try using a straight pin to pop it or just clear out the hole and refill.

The pic shows what it looks like on an 1701A I built a wile back.

Regards,
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Very helpful advice Matt. Thank you.:) So I don't need tape to keep the glue from falling through?
Been working 12 hour days at my "job" :mad:,(not complaining, happy to have one.) Just very little time for anything else.
-Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So do I put this stuff in from the inside or outside? Before or after paint?
Thanks,
-Jim
 

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What would you say is the maximum window diameter for this to work?
The late East Bay Hobbies (RIP) had a truck that the builder used Krystal Klear - the windows there were about 1/4" square. It's not the same stuff, but I'd assume the max window size would be comparable.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So do I put this stuff in from the inside or outside? Before or after paint?
Thanks,
-Jim
^^^^^^^Yes good info. But what about this^^^^^^^?
-Jim
 

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You may want to check out this video by Trekmodeler. At around 3:18 he talks about materials, tools and techniques for making windows on a Reliant he's building.


He does great works and his videos are usually pretty informative.

Regards,
Matt
 

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Another quick tip is ... create the windows after you've painted/decaled, but before you dull-coat your model. The dull-coat will "frost" the windows and spread out the light, making it more even.

(Actually, I suppose you should probably do a coat of Future or what-have-you to seal/protect the decals before adding the windows as this stuff is mentioned as being hot. I've only just purchased my first bottle last weekend at the LHS after reading this thread.)
 

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I'm using smooth-on resin (more work than this product), then planning on frosting the windows on the inside, or gluing mylar on the inside to diffuse the light. As for the outside, after I gloss, I'll probably mask the windows before dullcoating to keep the shine -- I had a sign shop laser-cut a bunch of small circles and shapes.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Very helpful guys. Thank you. That's part of the reason why I like this place.:)
Matt, that video was very informative , thanks.:thumbsup:
-Jim
 
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