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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm diddling around with a couple of AFX Dragsters I just got. One each of the Dodge Fever and Furious Fueler. Man, these are odd beasts. Trying to figure some things out...

1. Does that little piece of wire attached to the extension serve any mechanical purpose, or is it strictly cosmetic? Looks like simulated front suspension arms or something, but I can't see where they actually do anything...

2. I only got one 4-gear chassis between the two dragsters. It's the non-mag version. The crown gear was off when I got it. I put one in from a junker 4-gear I had around, and added the missing commutator brushes and fired it up. The crown and pinion do not mesh well at all; they slip pretty badly. The car moves, but you can tell the gears are not meshing fully and I wonder if I'm taking teeth off as it runs. I noticed the later (Magna-Traction) 4-gears have an additional screw to hold the back of the gearplate down tight, and I assume it's to fix this issue. Is there a fix for the nonmag chassis without provisions for that screw?

3. I stuck in a Magna-Traction 4-gear chassis just to see what it did. It kinda stunk, but then my track isn't exactly set up for drag racing. I wondered if the new AW 4-gears can be modified to fit the old dragsters. Obviously the body mounting ears would have to be removed... but is that all? Does the extension fit into the front of the AW chassis properly? Anybody running the new chassis under these old bodies?

4. Any other tips/tricks/words of wisdom on these dinosaurs?

thanks in advance for any help...

--rick
 

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Without seeing it, all I can say is to:

First check the rear gear on the top plate and see how much slack that rivet has and get rid of that slack (without binding the rear gear, of course)

Next, check that crown gear to see if it's ok. Also you may need a spacer behind it to fix any side-to side slop

Then put a downward bow in the gearplate clamp so it'll hold to the chassis better.
 

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LED Burner Outer
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Scope out Sgrigs' 4 gear he did a while back. If I recall correctly, he clamped the back end of the top plate down besides the regular clamp. The top plate might have a little warp in it, and it don't take much to lose gear mesh with the crown.
 

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Rick, I have one of those original Dodge Fever Dragsters too. And when I got it, it had a stripped crown gear. But I got a good one from JAG and put it back together and noted the same issue as you described, and I noticed it was caused by the lack of tightness between top plate and chassis. BUT, the good news is, I just added a piece of safety wire to the back half of the chassis to tighten things up. And she runs fine now, and is sorta fast if you use a Full power 22v power supply, as the Blue Drag arms need to Draw alot of Current to get motivated. BTW- the Blue Drag arms are very torquey but don't scream at high RPM's, so Aurora used tall rear tires to achieve speed. The thing isn't a lightning bolt, and is only as fast as an average A/FX car....but YMMV.
 

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PS- these Dragsters are also VERY sensitive to correct pick-up shoe contact patch, and I also added a tiny lead weight up front under the chassis extension as well. When tuned correctly, these things work pretty good, but were never extremely fast, but they were about a match for the normal A/FX cars of that same period.
 

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Model Murdering
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Sometimes there is more than one problem. Those whimpy crown gears were a joke. Additionally, they originally neglected to strap down all the extra monkey motion out back.

They eventually secured the rear of the gear plate, but forgot about the gear.

I've had great success using the AFX 3 gear crown on both "secured and un-secured" four gear Specialty set-ups. I'm done wasting precious modeling time on "never right-everfail parts".

At a glance, maybe try modding the new 18 tooth AW crown into the Dragsters? Because the axle support shoulder is inboard and the "toof" count is increased (closer to the stock gear ratio); it would seem to be the logical choice for some minor 'sperimenting.

Looks good on paper...?
 

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Good thoughts Bill about using the AW crown. Gotta try that out. I've had good luck with the Tyco white 22 tooth crown. The one with built in spacer on the side without teeth. I think these were from the last run of HP2 chassis before the HP7 came along.
You need to sand the spacer down a bit to get a good mesh, but it works very well and really pops the hole-shot.
And the wire form is for looks, trailing arms/suspension brackets. No real purpose other than looks.
I haven't tried the extension on the new AW 4-Gear chassis, but it should work. I've used the extensions on the original Aurora AFX Magnatraction chassis. Works well for making funnycars and getting the fewer number of idler gears.

-Paul
 

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4 gear crown gear

some good advice. i have found the origanal tjet gear works good. it does take some trimming to get it to work. the gear is larger in diameter, but its the same number of teeth. the origanil gear is not a good mesh. dinner isready must go
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh wow... so that extension will bolt on to a standard AFX or MT chassis? Never even thought about that. Hmmm...

Thanks for all the advice. next time I fool with it, I will try a different crown gear for starters and go from there.

--rick
 
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