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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning everyone, I have been wanting to purchase a good HO controller for a long time. I currently run Parma econo's....but the ohms are waay off.

I have strongly considered buying one of BRP's Nitro controllers.....but this morning I've been sitting here browsing some sites with controllers for sale....and I stumbled onto something which got me to thinking. Why not just build up my own controller???

Ideally, I'd use a BRP 120 ohm resistor....BUT, I'm considering buying a Parma HO plus controller and swap resistors out.Also, I found that " SlotProSpeedway.com " sells a really nice reasonably priced "brake pot" and knob. Ideally, I'd also add built in fuse protection.....just like the nitro controllers that BRP uses in thier controllers.

Does anyone have any experience with the Parma HO plus controller??? I like the fact that it has an aluminum frame and heatsink.......but I'd like to know if anyone thinks that the brake pot and fuse protection would fit......

ALSO, does the HO plus controller use a standard type of controller case??? Reason I ask is I'd like to find one of those old vintage parma green glitter housings for it ;)

I look at it like this guys.....I love slots,intend to hang with this hobby for years and years....so why not build the controller I want. I know that I could just go buy a difalco or something......but that's not what I want :)


Sorry for the rambling...hopefully this post and my questions will make sense to someone....lol

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #3
dlw said:
HoWorld.net has a step-by-step article on how to make your 120 ohm controller into a 7-settings adjustable controller.

http://www.howorld.net

THANKS for the reply, I do have that info stashed in my links....But I'm in need of some more specific info pertaining to this actual controller itself..... ;)
 

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The handles have been the same for at least 10 years. I have had 6 different Parma controllers, and not noticed any differences. If there are differences, it's very subtle.

The aluminum framed turbo/plus models are very nice. There's some room left inside, but it can get tight depending on what you want to do. I have done the variable resistance mods, and you can't just smash all the stuff back into the handle and make it fit. There is some planning involved.
 

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Manning said:
The handles have been the same for at least 10 years. I have had 6 different Parma controllers, and not noticed any differences. If there are differences, it's very subtle.
The plus controllers come in a clear handle. Painting the inside of the handle is quite popular... Let your imagination run wild!

-- Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Manning said:
The handles have been the same for at least 10 years. I have had 6 different Parma controllers, and not noticed any differences. If there are differences, it's very subtle.

The aluminum framed turbo/plus models are very nice. There's some room left inside, but it can get tight depending on what you want to do. I have done the variable resistance mods, and you can't just smash all the stuff back into the handle and make it fit. There is some planning involved.

I know for a fact that there are major differences in the Parma controllers.Ohms truely DO matter when running slot cars. I've ran the two Econos I have for a few years.....but recently a friend of mine bought one of the BRP Nitro 120 controllers (based off of the Parma Econo design, with a custom 120 ohm resistor and built in fuse protection) and it's like night and day....when running my Tjets.

Ideally, I'd mount the brake pot on the very front of the controller as shown on Slotprospeedway's site.....seems like the easist and best place to put it. As for the fuse protection I'd just mount the fuse holder in the base of the controller handle...just as BRP does with thiers.....that is, IF there's room with that aluminum frame and etc.



I did consider the thought of painting the inside of the handle....and yeah, that is one definate option.....maybe I'll shoot for some wicked candy flamed pattern.... :tongue:
 

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Your question..........
ALSO, does the HO plus controller use a standard type of controller case??? Reason I ask is I'd like to find one of those old vintage parma green glitter housings for it

Sorry, I thought you were wanting to know if the HANDLE, or the plastic piece your hand touches was the same. I attempted to answer that part of the inquiry. Apparently I misunderstood the question, or did not word my reply correctly so it could be understood.

Yes, I know the ohms matter. I have owned a 1, 2 and 3 ohm for my 1/24th cars when I raced those 10 years ago, and currently have 2 90/60's and a 45/35's for the HO stuff. All appear to have the same plastic pieces (case or handle or grip....) your hand touches.

Maybe I'm just having a bad day or something..... :wave:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Manning said:
Your question..........
ALSO, does the HO plus controller use a standard type of controller case??? Reason I ask is I'd like to find one of those old vintage parma green glitter housings for it

Sorry, I thought you were wanting to know if the HANDLE, or the plastic piece your hand touches was the same. I attempted to answer that part of the inquiry. Apparently I misunderstood the question, or did not word my reply correctly so it could be understood.

Yes, I know the ohms matter. I have owned a 1, 2 and 3 ohm for my 1/24th cars when I raced those 10 years ago, and currently have 2 90/60's and a 45/35's for the HO stuff. All appear to have the same plastic pieces (case or handle or grip....) your hand touches.

Maybe I'm just having a bad day or something..... :wave:

Ahh, ok man, THANKS for the input....you did answer that part of my question for me :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well guys, I've ordered my Parma Plus controller yesterday morning....and last night placed an order for my BRP 120 resistor...and brake pot.

Now begins the wait for the goodies to arrive.......then a trip to Radio Shack to buy the fuse holder assembly once the parts arrive.

I know CaptainFred's BRP controller uses a 1amp fuse.......is that the best size fuse to go with? Just figured that I'd ask....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well guys, I just finnished building my controller a few minutes ago. I can safely say that this project was a pain in the arse because of the inner aluminum frame/heatsink. I had to trim out an area in the base of the frame for the fuse holder to lay....and then weave the wires thru the frame to reach the brake pot in the nose of the handle.

So my totals for this controller are:

Parma HO plus controller $44.18 shipped from Hobbylinc.
BRP Nitro 120 ohm resistor $20.00
Slot Pro brake pot $9.99 plus $3 shipping (Both bought from Jim Nagy at "SlotProSpeedway")
Fuse holder $1.99 Radio Shack
1 amp Fuses $1.99 Radio Shack
wire terminal connectors $1.50 Radio Shack
larger knob for the brake pot $3.99 Radio shack (4 pack, so I'll count only $1)
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Total $83.65

Just a little over what I anticipated.....but I'm very pleased.

Would I build another controller like this one??? Nah, not with the aluminum inner frame.......only in an empty econo frame.....it's simply too much work.

I'm pooped right now.....but I'll try to post some pics tomorrow evening to show off my new controller :thumbsup:
 

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Where's those pics TX? :) I would love to see some and maybe if you have time a little how-to guide to putting it all together. I wouldn't mind trying something like this myself.

Thanks!
 

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adjustable controller....

slotpro sells already built controllers for $79.99

since TX spent almost that much in parts, it seems easier just to buy an already built controller, unless you score a used parma controller on ebay cheap. i tried that, and ended up with a bunch of rusty crappy parmas that need springs and screws and other things replaced besides the resisitor.

http://www.slotprospeedway.com/Controllers%20&%20Controller%20Accessories.html
 

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Yeah I know Mike, but as you know I like to break my own stuff. :rolleyes:

I just thought if I could figure out how to set up a controller with a brake/coast dial, then I could also try it for sensitivity as well. Just somethign I wouldn't mind knowing how to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
mking said:
slotpro sells already built controllers for $79.99

since TX spent almost that much in parts, it seems easier just to buy an already built controller.

Actually, let's compare apples to apples. The controller I just built is not even comparable to the one Slot Pro sells.

MY controller has an aluminum frame and cooling heatsink, AND built in fuse protection.

I honestly feel as if I've made a wise investment in what I have......

Here's a couple pics......


 

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Hey, looks great TX, nice work! Looks like a good investment to me.... If you have any tips or make up a mini "how-to", i'd love to see it!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
martybauer31 said:
Hey, looks great TX, nice work! Looks like a good investment to me.... If you have any tips or make up a mini "how-to", i'd love to see it!

Marty, the first thing I'll say is get your Dremel out before customizing one of these controllers with the inner frame. I did a considerable amount of grinding and fitting to get the fuse holder to fit how I wanted it to.

Also, before mounting the brake pot in the nose you'll have to flip the resistor bolt around...AND grind the head severely for clearance against the brake pot.

When you wire up the brake pot only hook up the middle wire, and one wire on either side......doesn't matter which (or so I read)

One thing to remember, IF you have a brake pot installed and hook up the controller wrong you will blow the pot. Take the controller apart and switch the wire that was on one side of the middle wire to the other position on the pot...and you'll be back in buisiness :thumbsup:

LMK if you have any other questions and I'll do my best to help you out with ino ;)
 

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Hey TX, I have a dumb question for you... maybe 2. Do the brakes work without the brake wire, some of the controllers out there work like that don't they? Or am I way off? I just know at the fray they only have 2 wire stations so the controllers need to work with out the red wire.

You also mentioned that if you hook up wrong, the pot will blow, wouldn't the fuse blow before the pot? If not, what exactly does having the fuse help with?

I'm just looking at doing something like this to have as a backup for my fray cars. Like I mentioned in another thread, I dropped my Difalco and it's been sent off to be fixed. All the rest of my controllers are 3-wire and really are meant for faster cars like G-Jets and G3 super stocks, I tried one with my fray car tonight and I had no control at all. it would be nice to have something simple like this that would work if I get clumsy again and need something immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Good morning Marty, first off, let me start by posting the links that I used as information to help me build my controller. I just took bits and pieces from these links and a bit of guesswork to come up with what I have. I'm definately NOT an electrical genious.....so this was tough on me and probably why it took me a while to build my controller. For someone who's experienced with ohms and controllers it'd be a breeze for sure...

Links:

http://www.slotcartalk.com/slotcartalk/showthread.php?t=11096

http://www.slotcarcorner.com/Articles/VarBrakes/VarBrakes.asp

Now, as I understand it......without using the brake wire you'd still have a sort of "on and off" type of braking....not as smooth without the brake pot. At least that's how I've understood it. I nor none of my friends at this time even own a track wired for brakes. I plan to wire my track for brakes....but that's still a ways off. I merely wanted to build my "hot rod" controller to have the ability of a brake pot in case I were to travel to a track that does have brakes.....

As for the fuse protecting the brake pot.....no it doesn't. Again, as I have read and understood (and yes, I could be wrong,someone PLEASE enlighten me if I am) the fuse is there to protect the resistor. I've got the resistor wire ran thru the fuse....so that's all I'm assuming it's protecting. I read the bit about the brake being able to fry if wired wrong thru the first link I posted.

Anyhow, I hope that helps man.......lmk if you have any other questions......I'll do my best to help! :thumbsup:
 

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The tracks brake is just a wire from the negative side of your power supply,that hooks to the brake lead from your controller,put a 3 to 5 amp fuse inline with this wire and you should never have any problems
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hornet said:
The tracks brake is just a wire from the negative side of your power supply,that hooks to the brake lead from your controller,put a 3 to 5 amp fuse inline with this wire and you should never have any problems

Yeah, I was familiar with how to wire the track for brakes........but never thought about putting an inline fuse on the brake wire :freak:

GREAT idea....THANKS for mentioning it! :thumbsup:
 
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