I use nothing but Rivets to reassemble my Customs because I like a clean, permanent professional finish. Just like the factory.
Rivets aren't necessarily cheaper than 1/56 and 2/56 sheet metal screws that you can find at Ace Electronics.
But, JL Rivet posts are of a smaller diameter than HW's and using small screws may be easier for some people.
Drilling out the JL post with a 1/16" bit and using a tiny sheet metal screw is a quick and easy way to reassemble those JL's if you don't mind the look.
The last time I bought Rivets was a wholesale deal of 20,000 and I've pieced out half of them online.
You can buy the correct Rivets at NAPA parts dealers.
A 250 pc box is about $13.
Here's a link to one of my "CadillacPat Customizing Tutorials" here on HobbyTalk with all the necessary Rivet information,
The rivets I use on my customs are MS20470 solid aluminum button head. I have two sizes. The larger rivet is used on most modern diecast. The smaller works well with older, vintage international diecast and chassis/axle retainers in Jada and Greenlight cars.
The larger ones are -A3-4, the smaller A2-2.5
The number indicates diameter-length in 16ths of an inch. The head diameter on the A3-4s is 0.18"; dia; the A2-2.5 head is 0.11"; dia.
I drill out the old rivets with the diameter bit of the rivet I'll be using. I use a hand drill rather than my dremil. the drimiel was WAY to fast, causing the bit to walk as the metal softened from the heat. I come back with a larger drill bit to take the old rivet shoulder off. That usually requires using a end of a precision common screwdriver to peel the last free.
I had to buy them by the pound, so I have enough for my lifetime and the next 200 generations to come.:drunk: