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Discussion Starter #1
I have had the SCX Tri-Oval set that comes with Casey Kane (sp) and Kevin Harvick for a few months. Myself and a freind broke it out to play with it last night, and it seems to both of us that the Dodge out handled the Chevy in both lanes. I know that the mags can be adjusted, do you think that SCX made one mag closer than the other? How do they adjust? I have not taken them apart as of yet. The one thing I did notice between the 2 cars, is the the Chevy had more front wheel play (slop) than the Dodge, would this be the handle issue? Can/how do you adjust the front axle? Allen wrench, twist it? or what.
Thanks in Advance for any and all comments.
Jimmy
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I forgot to ask about the controller, I have a Parma turbo controller that I would like to use, How is the terminal jack wired? pos,neg and brake?
Thanks again
 

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theycallmejam said:
I have had the SCX Tri-Oval set that comes with Casey Kane (sp) and Kevin Harvick for a few months. Myself and a freind broke it out to play with it last night, and it seems to both of us that the Dodge out handled the Chevy in both lanes. I know that the mags can be adjusted, do you think that SCX made one mag closer than the other? How do they adjust? I have not taken them apart as of yet. The one thing I did notice between the 2 cars, is the the Chevy had more front wheel play (slop) than the Dodge, would this be the handle issue? Can/how do you adjust the front axle? Allen wrench, twist it? or what.
Thanks in Advance for any and all comments.
Jimmy
Hey Jimmy!

The SCX NASCAR's are very similar (in fact, exactly similar) to the Scalextrics in many cases. WhatI have seen is that its the luck of the draw when it comes to motors - some are hot and others are just straight out of the box lemons. Just depends on what you get so to speak.

As for the wheel slop, yes, that can at times add drag to a car and reduce the performance of the car. In most cases, with my cars, I will pull the wheels off the front axle and the chuck the axle into my dremel. After gluing the tire onto the front wheels, I'll place each wheel onto the chucked up axles and begin "truing" the tires. Basically, I use sandpaper and lay the tire flat against the sandpaper - of course you want to make sure that the sandpaper is on a flat, even, hard surface. I take the tires all the way down until they are almost at the wheels - be very carefull as I have had some tires rip through and expose the wheel rim. Doing this removes the tires from touching the track up front or minimally touching, insuring that the flag and braids stay on the track and thus, the car remains in the slot. This has proven many times to help me out.

Another thing I have seen people do with solid (through and through) front axles that had a ton of play, is pull the axle and then make little squares out of hard cardboard. They then punch the axle through the center of the squares. They mount the axle back on the car, threading the cardboard squares on the inside of the chassis through the axle so that it "wedges" the axle upward away from the chassis and remove the up and down play in the front axle. Of course this requires measuring and making sure the squares are exactly the same so there is no height difference, but I think you get the idea.

Finally, going back to the motors, sometimes they need a good cleaning and lubing. Get some Pure Performance Electric Motor Cleaner and some elextric motor bearing oil. Take the cleaner and shoot it all in the motor, once you remove it from the car. Make sure that you keep spraying in the motor until all of the black carbon comes out of the motor. Once it stops coming out, dry the motor out by letting it sit and dry or use compressed air to blow it out. Once its dry, take the oil and lube where the motor's shaft goes through at both ends - this is important to insure that the motor does not seize or burn up. Put the motor back in and you should see a little bit of motor improvement. You can also grab some comm drops and try to place some on the comm of the motor to get better contact between the brushes and comm of the motor - that will improve performance from time to time.

I hope some of the helpful hints help! Good luck and have fun!

PD2:thumbsup:
 

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You can lower the magnets on the SCX NASCARs by loosening two small screws at the end of the magnet holder. The more you loosen it, the closer you get the magnet to the track, and the more magnetic downforce you get.

You should always true the rear wheels and tires, to do this you first take the tires off of the wheels and spin the wheels against an emory board to remove any molding flash and make sure they're round, do this gently as you do not want to take too much off; replace the rear tires, run a small bead of super glue around the joint between tire and wheel so that the tire won't slip, and then true the rear tires by gently lowering the rear of the car against a piece of medium grit sandpaper while the motor is running. Do not put enough pressure to bind up the motor! Sand the tires until you can see no glossy areas on them. The front tires I like to sand down until they don't actually touch the track, or I replace them after truing the front wheels with Slot.it Z0 zero grip tires.

SCX motors can be improved greatly by making sure that the brushes move freely in the brush guides, and that both brush springs have as equal brush tension as they can.

Another problem with these cars is the pickup strip between the motor and the guide. You can cure that problem by running a wire shunt between the motor and the brass strip on each side of the chassis, eliminating the brass spring strip contact. You can also use the tension of those spring contacts to tweak the flex of the motor pod in the chassis, which will help. I like to run the cars where the pod moves fairly freely. Set up the body so it floats freely on the chassis, this will also help with your handling.

You can replace the magnet in the magnet holder with a Slot.it "c" magnet by cutting out small squares at each end for the magnet to sit in. This will improve the magnetic traction. The cars seem to also like having a small button magnet just behind the front axle on the center line of the chassis to help balance it.

Other than these things, there's not much you can do without causing the car to no longer be legal in a stock class.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the input, some of which I already knew from commercial slot tracks that I have ran/raced on in the past. The home track is almost a differant ball game for me. A boy do I feel STUPID. I acttually have the Scalextrics, not the SCX, I thought these 2 home tracks are the same thing. Do I ever have mud in my face. I will try these pits and wee what happens.
My buddy did not want the Dodge car, he wanted the Chevy, after getting smoked by me again( more on that) He wanted the "Dodge" to see if there is a differance. You have read the diffarnce. Now for the again part, We race RC Gas Trucks as well, and here lately I have been putting the smackdown on him ever so badly.....
thanks again.
 

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theycallmejam said:
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the input, some of which I already knew from commercial slot tracks that I have ran/raced on in the past. The home track is almost a differant ball game for me. A boy do I feel STUPID. I acttually have the Scalextrics, not the SCX, I thought these 2 home tracks are the same thing. Do I ever have mud in my face. I will try these pits and wee what happens.
My buddy did not want the Dodge car, he wanted the Chevy, after getting smoked by me again( more on that) He wanted the "Dodge" to see if there is a differance. You have read the diffarnce. Now for the again part, We race RC Gas Trucks as well, and here lately I have been putting the smackdown on him ever so badly.....
thanks again.
Sounds like you might have the advantage, just from having a better trigger finger. ;) I too come out of racing RC - gas trucks, 1/8 buggies and MT, as well as electric truck and onroad cars. Its kind of nice to have a race and only worry about that trigger finger - although, it will definitely make you a lot more sensitive to getting on and off the throttle through those curves.

Glad we could help!
PD2:thumbsup:
 
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