I am partial to Ambroid ProWeld (another of the thin liquid glues). But use it in addition to, rather than in place of, the other glues.
Well said but thin CA will also operate by capillary action and if the parts are clean and tightly fitted I feel you get a very strong joint. If you buy generic or cheap "Superglue" with less polymer in it you'll end up with weaker bonds. CA glues are not all equal.dreamer said:Same here. I tend to favor either Ambroid or Testors tube glue. Ambroid and Tenax are pretty much the same, I'm told.
IMO the tube glue gives the strongest, most rsilient bond. Downside is it's messy and can mar your kit details.
Ambroid is an MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) cement, which actually melts the plastic at together at contact point. Presumably, this makes them one piece and gives a strong join. In my experience, pieces glued with it have broken apart easilyunder even slight stress if the pieces are still being worked. Big plus: the stuff evaporates rapidly and leaves the plastic around the seam undmaged. it's the cleanest of the glues. MEKs work by capillary action: hold the pieces together, brush the glue along the seam, it's drawn into the seam and fuses the pieces. It can be applied from inside the kit, given access, if you need a stronger weld and don't wish to get any on the outside of the kit.
Superglues, cyano-acrylates, I leave for resin and vinyl kits, and for filling seams. They can be a nuisance to work with, and don't hold up well under stress.
No kidding? I've never seen that happen, but then most of the kits I built long ago are long gone, so I have nothing to examine for this problem. Thanks for "the voice of experience" here, Trek Ace! I'll certainly think twice about using tube glue for larger kits! :thumbsup:Trek Ace said:Never liked the tube glues. They are basically plastic saturated with a heavy solvent. The solvent continues to soften the kit plastic sometimes even years later and can cause "glue sags" (wrinkles and dimples) on the plastic surface around the join.
That's just too funny!user1127 said:I will use nothing other than BSI-Insta-cure for normal gluing of parts. -and my cat loves the taste!
I tried that method and the entire rim method only once, using clothespins at every point, left overnight - but due to the imperfect saucer fit to begin with, the seam never holds after the putty and sand routine. ..maybe the Testor's putty has sometihng to attack that glue to begin with.Arronax said:I use Tenax on long seam (like the seam around the Enterprise saucer) by gluing one section at a time. Drop in a drop of Tenax, hold it together for 5 seconds, move on the next section and repeat.