Hobbyist Forums banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This current project was inspired by my very old 1:48 scale MPC X-Wing.

As a kid I remember being pretty impressed with the working wings in spite of the wonky mechanism to allow it. Lately the wobbly out of synch rocking of the wings independent of the body and each other has been bugging me. I can see right through the model from side to side as well as into the back and front of the wing box. The wings are also beginning to sag quite a bit. So, I set out to design a mechanism to fix all those problems.

Here are the results so far:

http://hagoth.wix.com/the-brass-ball#!pm-1a/cjex

While made for the 1:48 scale MPC X-wing the mechanism can be adapted for pretty much any kit. Manual or motorized. Projects to adapt it to the 1:35 Pro-Shop version and scratch built 1:24 scale versions are already on the project schedule. I can hardly wait to put it in a VII TFA X-Wing when the 1:48 scale version is released.

While I'm very interested in general comments on the concept so far, for any scale, I'm particularly interested in those fellow modelers that also have the old MPC kit (a lot of time has been spent on many of them) and their thoughts on my mechanism being offered to the community as an option to upgrade it's former glory.

_________________
"It's kind of fun to do the impossible." - Walt Disney
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
If I get enough interest they will be.

I'm currently working on bringing the cost down from the 3D printed prototype stage. All I can say at the moment is that a sub $190 version is very very possible. Yeah, I know, expensive but that was the cost of the unit in the video which was a mix of 120 micron and 16 micron 3D printed parts so that is where I have to start. My target price is at least half that for a production unit. A special pre-sale price beyond that might be considered, again based on the amount of interest there is.

Other than that I can create units on an as requested basis and work out a deal with those interested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
By the way, in case there are others that are having trouble figuring out that the last image in the development log is just an image link to the video and not supposed to be the video itself (video link is in the bottom left corner of the image) here is the direct link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28Q2ZbuiFAc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,684 Posts
If you rotated the unit 180 degrees, could you connect a motor or solenoid to it inside the body? Just curious.

Rob
Iwata Padawan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The current version is the manually operated version. It will be operated through the servo hub on the back of the model. It is intended for my old original build. Details on how that will work will come later.

A motor is intended to go in the same place as the manual drive on a shortened driver shaft and mount directly to the back support. The motor I will likely use is a small micro motor only 9 mm long. With 13 mm of space to play with I have plenty of room.

You are right that it could be flipped around 180 so the motor is under R2. In my case, I need to room there for some other features I plan to add to my un-built kit. Aside from powered S-foils I also want to include:

*Internal battery with a hidden USB charging port out the back.
*Lit engines, cockpit, and possibly R2.
*Control board with a sound chip.
*Bluetooth voice control.

Ambitious, I know. I will likely need some serious help with all this. The end goal is to have everything internal with no external wires or power supply showing.

Come on, I know someone else out there has had this dream! :)

_________________
"It's kind of fun to do the impossible." - Walt Disney
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
$190 for the 1:48 version is pretty steep for something that would go in a $25 model .What I would recommend is design the unit where it can be taken apart so you can mold it and cast as many as you want, because at that high price you won't get many takers you may get a few but most would go for a less expensive version.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Oh, as I mentioned that will not be the final price of a kit, by any stretch of the imagination. I will not be using prototyping methods for production kits. Way too expensive. Not bad though for a first try fully working prototype. :tongue: I'm very pleased with how smoothly this has gone so far from concept to working prototype.

The unit comes apart in 14 pieces of which most can be cast or injection molded and retain the high tolerance required for the unit to work as intended. There are two parts that are proving very difficult to cast and at least one of them may remain a high tolerance print, but that part alone has minimal cost so I'm not too concerned. The production kit price will come way down.

I'm currently waiting for the high tolerance parts to be used for making the molds to arrive.

Production kits will be either resin or high strength plastic. They will still likely be more expensive than the kit they go in but then most upgrade kits are that way. The resulting performance of the upgrade will be well worth the cost. :)

With that said if anyone does want a custom made (numbered and signed?) prototype unit at cost... :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Oh, as I mentioned that will not be the final price of a kit, by any stretch of the imagination. I will not be using prototyping methods for production kits. Way too expensive. Not bad though for a first try fully working prototype. :tongue: I'm very pleased with how smoothly this has gone so far from concept to working prototype.

The unit comes apart in 14 pieces of which most can be cast or injection molded and retain the high tolerance required for the unit to work as intended. There are two parts that are proving very difficult to cast and at least one of them may remain a high tolerance print, but that part alone has minimal cost so I'm not too concerned. The production kit price will come way down.

I'm currently waiting for the high tolerance parts to be used for making the molds to arrive.

Production kits will be either resin or high strength plastic. They will still likely be more expensive than the kit they go in but then most upgrade kits are that way. The resulting performance of the upgrade will be well worth the cost. :)

With that said if anyone does want a custom made (numbered and signed?) prototype unit at cost... :)
oh, my dear friend

If you need a perfect model, the prototype is a must, no prototyping, no precise model!!!
Sometime, we want to pay money for what we get.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I like quality of the prints. Is it postprocessed? What printer are you using?
Thank you for stopping by! Man, your project is awesome.

The prints are not post processed except for a little sanding in some key areas to get the tolerance back in spec. That is the raw surface finish right off the printer after the support material was dissolved off with water.

The gray parts came off a big Fortus printer at 120 micron resolution and the translucent white parts inside came from an Eden printer at 16 micron resolution.

I use Invent-A-Part as my printing service. https://www.inventapart.com/ They are also the maker of the RigidBot 3D printer. They have been very good to work with over the years and I highly recommend them if anyone needs 3D printed parts.

If all goes as planned I will have my own dual head RigidBot Big 3D printer by the end of the month. It has 100 micron resolution.

My prototyping cost will soon drop dramatically. :woohoo:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,038 Posts
If all goes as planned I will have my own dual head RigidBot Big 3D printer by the end of the month. It has 100 micron resolution.
There are so many printers coming out now, guess I shouldn't be surprised at not hearing about this one.

That is a huge printer for that price, but the drawback is very long print times.
I just finished building a large printer 200x250x230mm out of various different parts, and haven't really used the full size because of the crazy long print times.

If you do get the larger printer make sure you get the LCD and card reader, you don't want to have to keep a computer connected to it for 2 days without interruption if you do print something large...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
If you do get the larger printer make sure you get the LCD and card reader, you don't want to have to keep a computer connected to it for 2 days without interruption if you do print something large...
Spot on! LCD and USB reader port will be included for that very reason. While it is printing away I will be at the computer designing the next job if not cleaning off support material from the previous. I wanted the large bed to do both mass quantities of small parts as well as large shells.

I've seen this printer work and seen the quality of that comes off it. The printer is actually quite fast for being so big and one of the few that I've seen capable of spanning .25" gaps with out sagging.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,038 Posts
I've seen this printer work and seen the quality of that comes off it. The printer is actually quite fast for being so big and one of the few that I've seen capable of spanning .25" gaps with out sagging.
I've got 2 fans on my home made printer, with PLA I can get 10 to 15mm bridges without sagging. ABS is harder to do that because of the higher temperatures needed. The first mods most people do is mess around with fans and fan shrouds to get good cooling of the extruded plastic.

I'm still not sure how they make that printer so cheaply, looks like you could do PLA (no heated bed) on the large one for around $600. Just the metal hardware and electronics for a large Mendel would run close to that, and then you'd still have to print out all the plastic parts.

A year ago when I got into 3D printing I wish that printer was around, it would have saved me some money. I started with the Printrbot simple wooden 4x4x4 inch kit, moved up to the Printrbot simple metal 6x6x6 inch model, then got some larger hardware and reused the parts from the first kit and printed parts to build my current 8x10x9 inch one. Building and modifying printers can get somewhat addictive, since getting my 2 printing very well I keep having to resist the urge to tear one apart and try a new design...:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
That's nice! I spent a lot of time with sanding paper and putty :) I think would get better prints now after resolving most of the problems with my printer. Next project will be easier:)

And yeah having 3D printer at home speeds up prototyping a lot :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
My printer came today! :woohoo:

RigidBot Big, dual head, heated bed, USB port and LCD.

It does need to be assembled which may be part of why it is less money for the size but then most out there assemble their own printers anyway. I have a spool of ABS and one of PLA. PVA Soluble support material will be on it way soon.

Now for a build update on my project. I have the concept for the manually operated connection through the servo hub completed. I'll try to post design rendering by the end of the week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
After several hijacks of my time I'm back on track.

Here are the links to my progress on designing the manual mechanism for operating the wings through the servo hub on the back of the model. Any one of the links will allow you to scroll through the other images.

Clutch parts - http://hagoth.wix.com/the-brass-ball#!Manual Clutch Parts/zoom/cjex/image_i36

Parts installed - http://hagoth.wix.com/the-brass-ball#!Manual Clutch Parts/zoom/cjex/image_1o5i

Interface with back plate and servo hub - http://hagoth.wix.com/the-brass-ball#!Manual Clutch Parts/zoom/cjex/image_1w0s

Direct link to video showing operation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyvSBYLBbtY There is a bonus feature revealed in the video. :)

Parts are being printed (including a re-print of the messed up high resolution parts) so a complete physical prototype will be coming soon.

Printer prints but still needs to be calibrated. I did not expect this to be so involved and time consuming just to get it working.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
While I'm waiting for the next batch of parts...

Here are the inside details to the manual clutch part. Yes, I'm revealing some inner secrets but they do little good for anyone without the rest of the mechanism. Some might find this interesting. So... enjoy.



Here is the cut and paste link to the web site. http://hagoth.wix.com/the-brass-ball#!Manual Drive Cut-A-Way/zoom/cjex/image_1s5u

The green clutch and purple hub parts are connected and slide back and forth on the yellow drive shaft through the blue back plate. The sliding clutch is shown half way between snapped in place and engaging the drive clutch. The yellow drive clutch does not move back and forth but rotates once the sliding clutch engages it. The red clutch guide housing is attached to the blue back plate and does not move.

Maybe this will clear up any confusion as to how this is intended to work. :)
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top