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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure we've covered this [snicker] before, but who has had a bad experience with primers that smother detail? I am putting together a Monarch Nosferatu for my sister and used two brands of primer. Krylon gray - highly recommended on this board - worked beautifully on the clothing and base. Restore white on the head and hands seemed to go on awfully thick and smothered the fine details such as tufts of hair above the ears.

Has anyone else had this experience, or ( equally likely ), is it simply an error on my part?
 

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I am always careful with how much primer I spray on realizing the stuff is thick and too much could fill fine detail. I use Rustoleum most of the time and Kyrlon occasionally and so far have only had trouble once or twice which I blame on myself more than the paint.
 

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Some primers do go on thick and gloppy. I don't like any of the Testors spray paints at all aside from their Custom Lacquer car paints.

I still find the best primer to be Tamiya Grey and Tamiya Fine White. Neither will go on too thick and they don't etch the plastic or have an annoying pebbly texture that other primers can give.
 

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Some primers do go on thick and gloppy. I don't like any of the Testors spray paints at all aside from their Custom Lacquer car paints.

I still find the best primer to be Tamiya Grey and Tamiya Fine White. Neither will go on too thick and they don't etch the plastic or have an annoying pebbly texture that other primers can give.

I'll 2nd that. Tamiya's primers are very high quality and don't obscure features. Whenever I'm painting models with fine details I only use primers paints which are designed for hobby applications. Krylon, Rustoleum are fine products and I use them for jobs without fine details. They work well for their intended purpose but they are not formulated for artistic applications. YMMV.

Regards,
MattL
 

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I use a spray primer called NOW (? go figure.). It's from Sherwin Williams and is found in most hardware stores.

You should only be giving your models a very light dusting of primer. If you're obscuring details, you're using too much, no matter what the brand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to all who replied or even took a gander at this thread. A LHS just down the street carries the Tamiya stuff - very expensive, but worth it for the project. I am happy with Testors Dullcote and the Krylon primer. The white primer I am through with.
 

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You should only be giving your models a very light dusting of primer. If you're obscuring details, you're using too much, no matter what the brand.
Second that, Tim. If the primer is applied in mist coats, coverage can be built up without smothering the fine details. Also, placing the can in lukewarm water for 10 or 15 minutes prior to spraying makes the paint go on much more smoothly.


The color of the primer does make a difference - so :thumbsup:, mrmurph, on using the gray primer for all but the flesh areas and white underneath the skin tones.
 

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I could never understand why a lot of people will buy a $50 or $100 or $150 model then cheeze out and say a $8 can of high quality primer is too much, and will botch the job with a $1.99 Wal Mart econo special. A can of primer lasts a long time and within reason you get what you pay for. That doesn't mean some of the hardware stuff isn't good for some applications, but it may not be best for every application. A can of Tamiya primer costs about the same as a 6 pack of beer or a large size meal at McDonalds.
 

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Second that, Tim. If the primer is applied in mist coats, coverage can be built up without smothering the fine details. Also, placing the can in lukewarm water for 10 or 15 minutes prior to spraying makes the paint go on much more smoothly.
I'll third that. Like paint, primer should be applied in several very light coats. I've been using Testors' white primer for several years now, warming it up as Mr. McGovern suggests prior to use, and have never had a problem.
 

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No that stuff is akin to Mr. Surfacer. Fine White and Grey spray primers are good for general use. The Liquid Surfacer is handy for filling hairline gaps, pin holes, air bubbles, etc.
 

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I would like to find a good primer I could use in an airbrush.
You can always decant a primer or other paint you want to airbrush into a jar. Some guys tape a straw over the nozzle to spray the paint while holding a rag over the open mouth of the jar to keep the fumes and overspray down. The paint has to stop outgassing the propellant before it can be transferred to the airbrush reservoir. When the bubbling in the paint ceases, it's good to go.

 

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You can always decant a primer or other paint you want to airbrush into a jar. Some guys tape a straw over the nozzle to spray the paint while holding a rag over the open mouth of the jar to keep the fumes and overspray down. The paint has to stop outgassing the propellant before it can be transferred to the airbrush reservoir. When the bubbling in the paint ceases, it's good to go.
Yes and DO NOT put the decanted paint into a sealed jar to gas out. Let it sit uncovered. Otherwise it will pressurize itself in the new container and spray out when you open it.
 

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Aint had any primer smother details that I can recall but I've had parts trees dipped in chrome with details smothered as a result and the most recent is the chromed trees on the Amtronic.
 

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Decanting won't work for me because I do not have a spray booth. I only use acrylics through the AB. I keep hoping to find a good acrylic primer, but maybe there is no such thing.

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
 
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