Other-Glow.

 

gray would be nice !

 

The Aurora square-box one I have is black, so...

 

I wouldn't want to see unscrupulous people try to pass off pieces from the new Phantom as vintage Aurora pieces, so I hope it's not repopped in black. Was the original long box Phantom also black plastic?

 

Excellent thought. Gotta help people avoid the ripoffs.

 

The longbox I had was black, as was the Cinemodels one.

 

I don't care about the color of the styrene as much as I care about the quality of the styrene. Anyone ever built one of the kits produced by Toy Biz in the 1990s? Their styrene was terrible--oddly soft and prone to cracking. I started their Ghost Rider kit, and while I was removing some flash (their molds were terrible too) the spikes on the gauntlets started falling off even though I had barely touched them. Eventually more fell off than remained on the kit, so I ended up removing them all and by then I was so ticked off that I put everything back in the box and never got back to it. Now, I don't mind doing the extra work to make a kit look at least a little better than it would if it was built straight out of the box, but when detail parts start falling off before I've even put glue to plastic it tends to make the build a lot less enjoyable.

 

I voted gray, simply because that's about the easiest color for spotting seams, gaps, etc. Otherwise the model is going to be covered in paint, so the underlying color of the plastic is unimportant to me. Come to think of it, what does uncolored styrene look like?

 

...Come to think of it, what does uncolored styrene look like?

:grin2:

 

Phantom color

Other-Glow please!

 

I don't see why the styrene color matters and glow does make sense to me. When I was re-collecting, there was no ebay or Polar Lights and the long boxes were out of my price range, so I bought all the Lumineaters I could find. Once primed and painted they were fine for show.

 

Color does matter to some extent. Dark colors are just a pain to work with. Yes you are going to paint it, but it is much easier to work on a lighter, neutral, color than, say, black. Not that it is an issue here, but metallic plastic also sucks. Silver shows a black line where you cut and trim it, so it is really hard to tell if you have gotten rid of seams, etc.

As to passing off a new part for an original - the new parts are 100% identical to the originals since they come from the original mold. Only the name on the bottom of the base would be different. Since you are going to paint the model, it would not matter anyway.

 

Are we now to the point the individual part being original or a later recast is a problem? I thought all one need do was to look at the bottom of base to verify originality. If buyers of top dollar collector product are not willing to do that then let them get taken is my view.

X2 on the neutral plastic color, while not as exciting as some of the wilder colors say for a child assembling them, most WILL be painted and the neutral plastic may lower the cost of kit slightly as well.

 

Not understanding this interest in molding kits in weird colors. Unless it's a glow-in-the-dark kit, just mold it in a light gray. Most people will be painting the kit and don't want to waste paint trying to cover the dark plastic. Back in the '60's when models were mostly built by kids, molding the kits in color, especially if the color corresponded to a main color of the subject, made sense. Today, most modellers are over 40, do seam work and paint their kits, so colored plastic is an annoyance for the most part.

 

Yeah, but there's nothing as cool as a fuscia Godzilla!

 

Yeah, I'll give you that. When I was a kid, my grandma bought me the Aurora Phantom kit, which was molded in black. I was brush painting my models at that point and remember wishing Aurora had molded the kit in white, since white (for the Phantom's shirt) was much harder to paint well, especially over black, while black was easy to paint over any color!