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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. I have a few questions regarding an AFX candy red Aztec and would appreciate any help.


1. The roof has some haze marking on it from some roll over slides. It doesn't appear to have penetrated through the paint, rather just dulling it. Is there a way to polish the marks out? What is known to work? Would rubbing some auto wax on the area do the job?






2. What is the correct chassis type for this car when original? Is it AFX (non-mag) Speciality or MagnaTraction Specialty? Being a drag car I would think it is the AFX but would like to confirm.

Thank you,
Michael.
 

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Used mild toothpaste, not the stuff with baking soda in it. and stay AWAY from Auto Wax/polishes, as they(some) contain solvents- which may attack the paint and the glass(ask me how I know).
 

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The correct Aztec chassis could have been Both A/FX Specialty types- ie : the early '73-'74 had Non magna(both without screw and w/screw), the '75-'76 models were magna traction.
I have one of the very Early- Dodge Fever versions, which is Non MT & No Screw, also have another Specialty non MT/ no screw Dodge Van as well :)
 

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either 4 gear chassis goes well with that body. they came both ways.
of course you want the chassis extension for the front wheels. that body looks really good and you are wise to take your time resolving the issues. I have the extensions front wheels with axles and the wire for the front end if you need them. and, complete 4 gear chassis with proper wheels and tires.
 

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More info- regarding chassis. If the body is marked #1792- it came with non MT chassis, if the body is marked #1963- it came with MT Chassis.
 

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Want to be safe you can use novus. Novus is a model polishing set, start with liquid #2 and apply with a micromesh cloth. Finish up with #1 wax seal protector. #2 is a mild abrastive.

There are a few automotive polishers that can attck paint. Turtle wax scratch and swirl is good as is meguire's polish.

Nufinish will attack the top layer of paint.

You could also use futura floor wax, dip the body in the futura and let it dry and self level once dipped do not touch the body for 24 hours until the wax dries and sets up.

A light paint polish is easier. I would not use any toothpastes.

As for the chassis the dragsters started in 73-74 and were made until 75-76. So they started out on the non magnatraction chassis and ended with the magnatraction chassis so either could be correct. I have all 4 originals as non magnatraction. The bodies have part numbers underneath... Ralph's post lists them.

I also created decal sets for all 4 cars.



If you want to make your own decals I can send you the artwork files.

These are my decals I created from an original set.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow! Ya see.......... that's why sites such as this need to be looked after. The depth of knowledge and willingness to share it is priceless. Thank you guys.

Ok, Ralph, that's excellent info. Hmmm, the body in question is numbered 1772-001 which matches neither of your reference numbers. Do I have an alien?

Al, a most generous offer. Thank you but I neglected to add in my OP that the car came with the chassis and complete extension, all in great condition. Given the wear on the chassis parts I'd be surprised if the car has done more than an hour of track time.

The chassis is an MT version and when I saw that, I thought it odd that magnet traction would be used for a drag car. Knowing now that they were released with an MT version, I'd just like to make sure it is correct for the body number.

Dan, I have heard of the Novus polish range and read good things. I'll make some enquiries with my local HS and see what they have. My working theory is to begin with the mildest action possible and only step it up if required. I did consider using future as I know it works well for this type of mark but if I can use polish, I would prefer that. Thanks.

Any further info is appreciated.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:
 

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The cars are a blast to run on the new aw drag tracks... The non magnatraction cars are faster then the magnatraction cars, because of less downforce.
However without the magnatraction the front wheel adjustment is more critical.

The wires on the sides of the body on the front extension are not for show. They adjust tension on the front tires so the chassis goes straight. You bend them up or down to tweak the front wheels it is basically a sway bar to twist the front end clockwise or counterclockwise.
 

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numbers

Well, I just double checked two ref manuals- both Bob Beers and Tom Grahams, and my numbers are correct for the Red Aztec. The number You listed is correct for the White- Dodge Fever (non MT) version like mine, hmmmm...maybe it's different for Export models ?

Ok, Ralph, that's excellent info. Hmmm, the body in question is numbered 1772-001 which matches neither of your reference numbers. Do I have an alien?
 

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Good info on the chassis. Don't forget the dragsters came with wider rear tires that covered the width of the rims. The inside lip of the rim is thinner on the NMT versions allowing for the wider rubber.

Here's some more reference info:

AFX Dragsters

If you check out the "Furious Fueler" rear view picture, you can see the wider rear tires.

-Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the many suggestions for polishing. I've actually read good things said about toothpaste, Novus and more recently Meguiars. I did some hunting around and can get a Novus 3 pack + cloth via eBay for less than a local guy wanted for just a 3oz bottle of #2. :freak: I'm going to give the Novus a go, very carefully. Will report back with what will hopefully be a pleasing result when I get the polish.

As far as the body ID is concerned I'm unsure what to think. Thanks for double checking the numbers Ralph. Paul, you may well be on the money mate.... perhaps I have a respray. Here's the body from the underside showing the number. Hopefully something else here might help determine if this is original or not. From the limited images I can find showing sections of the underside of others, the over spray, melted mounting tabs, etc look about right. May I ask someone with a known original to compare the underside of theirs to mine?



That's a nice reference site you linked Paul. From what I can tell from pictures there and elsewhere, I think the chassis is original with correct wheels, front extension, etc. Given that I don't have another to compare with, I can't be sure though.





Dan, I was messing with the front wire just last night, straightening it a little. I did notice there was a bias for both sides towards the top of the chassis and wondered if that was intentional. Thanks for clearing that up. I just noticed in this shot that the wire probably needs to be tweaked to bring the nearest front wheel down, or raise the other. Nice to be able to tweak!



Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:
 

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Michael, I just checked my White w/yellow Dodge Fever Dragster body number, and it too reads 1772-001 ....so since I don't have access to the Aztec version, or the other two dragsters, I cannot say for certain that more than one dragster didn't share the same body number. Although I think that it's odd that two collectors guide would state separate numbers.
Anyway- your Aztec looks very nice and clean, although the brass bits are a bit over polished, and the silver plating is gone off the bottom electricals.
 

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the bodies are the same, The dodge fever and aztec are the same body just one is painted red metallic. i think the part number is just listed by aurora as the painted version for packaging.

the furious fueler and dynomite is the same body also. just dynomite has a spash of blue color on it.


 

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I have had excellent success buffing by using a buff bar made for fingernail care. Does a great job. Found in the fingernail polish section at your local Target or Walmart.
 
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