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Discussion Starter #1
This is strictly for those who are building this kit as the "production" version.

I am building this ship over the next few weeks. I myself see a few issues. The one that bugs me most is the indented line that goes down the neck of the ship, which I think is there to divide the areas of paint color differences (the front area of neck has a blue-ish color). But I have never seen in any photos of the studio models, this engraved line. Did PL add this as a paint guide line? Does anyone know if this should be filled in with putty? Or does the ship actually have this line?

Also, please add anything you know about this model that needs to be fixed or tweaked or something you did or would do, to accurize any of the parts to duplicate the "production" version.

I"d love to see your photos of your work on this ship.

"PRODUCTION VERSION" only.

Did I mention "production" version?
 

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The indented line on the neck is indeed there as a paint guide, and was not there on the real model. It should be filled if you're going for accuracy.


For more info than you ever wanted to know, check my blog (www.enterproject.wordpress.com). Haven't finished the Production section, yet, but a lot of accurizing details for all three versions are described in-depth.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds great your blog is. I will be visiting it often.

Here is one that also has every detail on the studio models from first sketch ideas by Matt Jefferies through all the movie versions as well. There is even the final word on how those main hull grid lines were created, and if they were raised or scribed. (pssst, the answer is neither!):

http://en.memory-alpha.org/wiki/Constitution_class_model

I guess I also should have asked the same question about the scribed lines I see on the underside of each nacelle, near the front domes. This is where the dk. grey pattern should go.

Again, I assume I should putty these up. They really shouldn't exist right? What was PL thinking? If you use their decals, would the decals hide these scribed lines? Is that the idea?
 

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They're scribed for paint guides. What were they thinking? They were thinking of giving us paint guides. Fill them if you want to.

It's been known that the saucer grid was penciled on for a few decades now.
 

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PL added some surface detailing to their Enterprise kit much in the same way that companies handle detail on aircraft models. Real planes do not have raised lines or big grooves all over the surface of their skin but most models have that kind of detailing. It is not hard on the 1/1000 kit to fill in the minimal surface detail and sand it smooth.

It looks like the struts for the warp engines will take some puttying and sanding as the way they are engineered is poor and the seams are obvious and the edges seem very chunky and thick.
 

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This is a great kit and very accurate for the most part aside from the scribed lines on the front of the dorsal and under the front of the nacelles. A few minor things PL missed would be the tiny lights on the upper saucer outboard of the main flashing formation lights and the lights on top of each bussard collar behind the nacelle domes. These should be red on the port side and green on the starboard side. They are teardrop shaped with the bulbous end facing forward like you find on aircraft. The other lights they missed are the three located in a line on the spine of the secondary hull above the shuttle bay about midway between the front edge of the dome over the bay doors and the midline of the nacelle pylons. The middle light is red and elliptical in shape. It is about twice as tall as the round green lights in front and behind it. Depending on how accurate you want this model to be you can easily make these parts using colored acrylic rod available at most plastic supply sites.
Also, this is a nice kit for lighting as it includes clear bussard domes and clear domes for the saucer.
When I built my 1/1000 production Enterprise I lit up the bussards and the saucer domes. For the bussards, I painted the inside of the inner "fanblade" dome amber with a 5mm LED behind it painted with white fluorescent acrylic followed by orange acrylic paint. The outer bussard domes were painted on the inside with Floquil Flat for light diffusion which gave them a milky white translucence. I used strips of adhesive-backed aluminum foil for the fan blades. I used 4 watch style batteries housed in the front of the secondary hull for power. The defelector ring housing twists and unlocks to access them.

Here's a link to my album on Flickr! with some pics of the one I built:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157634130056282/
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is strictly for those who are building this kit as the "production" version.

I am building this ship over the next few weeks. I myself see a few issues. The one that bugs me most is the indented line that goes down the neck of the ship, which I think is there to divide the areas of paint color differences (the front area of neck has a blue-ish color). But I have never seen in any photos of the studio models, this engraved line. Did PL add this as a paint guide line? Does anyone know if this should be filled in with putty? Or does the ship actually have this line?

Also, please add anything you know about this model that needs to be fixed or tweaked or something you did or would do, to accurize any of the parts to duplicate the "production" version.

I"d love to see your photos of your work on this ship.

"PRODUCTION VERSION" only.

Did I mention "production" version?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
They're scribed for paint guides. What were they thinking? They were thinking of giving us paint guides. Fill them if you want to.

please don't reply to my posts with your obnoxious know-it-all attitude...

It's been known that the saucer grid was penciled on for a few decades now.
sigh....once again
please don't reply to my posts with your obnoxious know-it-all attitude...

we get it. you know everything and must let people know with your superior attitude which shines brightly through your well chosen wording.
 

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Interesting suddenly getting yelled at for a response from SIX YEARS AGO. :oops:
Speed of light timelag?

Does ANYONE who gets the "I'm going to make my kit EXACTLY like the final 'production model' miniature!!" bug ever go all the way? Removing the port side 'support' thing from the secondary hull? Making the saucer not quite round? Putty and paint over all the windows on the port side and so on? Anyone?

Seems to me those are issues more important than debating the lines PL etched to help beginners and the less informed paint their kit.

Thing is, the PL 1/1000 scale Enterprise would be perfect for a 1/6-ish scale diorama of the effects stage shooting. THAT would be different!
 

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Those slingshot maneuvers around the sun can be tricky...

I guess the 1:1000 version that includs the botany bay is an updated mold, pretty sure the first one of those I built was about 5 years ago and that model doesn't have any of the issues talked about here. That first build was for testing paint colors while building my 1:350, since then I've done 2 more, one production and one first pilot.
 

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Hate the new quote system, couldn't figure it out so not doing the quote.

I figured out the "studio scale" back when I replicated the wooden delivery stand for my pilot build. It's 1:12 scale, 6 inch figures would work for cameramen and grips.
 

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Found it:

(boy I really dislike the new system. I really do. It's why I've been quiet for a time. urg.)

OK, and I even was commenting in that thread! How did I forget that?! It's a beautiful build done with great skill.

Still needs the control console. :)
 

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Hate the new quote system, couldn't figure it out so not doing the quote.

I figured out the "studio scale" back when I replicated the wooden delivery stand for my pilot build. It's 1:12 scale, 6 inch figures would work for cameramen and grips.
The reply icon/link is the new (singe) quote button. Just click on it and go down to the reply box at the bottom of the posts. When you hover over the box it will insert the single quote post for you. Then type in your message before or after it as you choose.
 
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