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Discussion Starter #1
I have recieved the polar lights seaview kit and wanted to get some information from those who have built it. I know i want a two tone light bottom and darker top area. this kit has the 8 small windows up front instead of the 4 large windows, and both ways looks good. I was thinking of painting only the 3 dividing lines that run from top to bottom and eliminate the long right to left horizontal line in the center to make it look like it has the 4 big windows instead of the 8 small ones. has anyone done that with this kit ? and any painting tips also appreciated.
 

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Oxidation Genius
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My PL Seaview:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/seaview_pl1a.html

My Lunar Models 33-incher:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/seaview_lm1.html

My detailing and painting research:
http://inpayne.com/seaview/seaviewpics.html

The belly and dive plane undersides are bright white, the topsides a medium gray. I've found that both testors ModelMaster Medium gray or Dark Ghost Gray look good. I used Medium on the PL kit and Dark Ghost on the Lunar.

Just leaving out the cross-bar for a 4-window effect is terribly inaccurate. The Flying sub-carrying version had windows on one level only, whereas the pilot-movie version had 8 windows on 2 levels, 4 above 4. Hence the 4-window bank is only half the height of the 8-window bank.

What you should do is sand the clear nose piece smooth and buff it shiney again, then mask it for just the one-level set of 4 windows of the proper height.
 

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Also, of note is the artificial shading done to the model because filming underwater washes out the depth and details, so the models had shading applied to the lower half of the hull above the chine(or whatever) and on the lower engine tube areas too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks everyone, those are excellent seaviews gentlemen ! now i see the differences in the hull nose shapes with each window version. if i was to go with the 4 window i would need to add the sonar humps on each side to make it look right and then the shape of the front nose would be different, i think i will stay with the 8 window movie version so everything will look correct. John, that is the coolest diorama i have ever seen, it looks very real. that was a great idea you had there ! all of those seaviews are very well done, i hope mine will come out just as nice as all of yours have ! thank you for the very helpul information !
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Jay, i see you have also modified the conning tower windows on yours , it looks like you moved those small windows out to the sides, that looks pretty good, did you make a new part for that ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
John P said:
My PL Seaview:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/seaview_pl1a.html

My Lunar Models 33-incher:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/seaview_lm1.html

My detailing and painting research:
http://inpayne.com/seaview/seaviewpics.html

The belly and dive plane undersides are bright white, the topsides a medium gray. I've found that both testors ModelMaster Medium gray or Dark Ghost Gray look good. I used Medium on the PL kit and Dark Ghost on the Lunar.

Just leaving out the cross-bar for a 4-window effect is terribly inaccurate. The Flying sub-carrying version had windows on one level only, whereas the pilot-movie version had 8 windows on 2 levels, 4 above 4. Hence the 4-window bank is only half the height of the 8-window bank.

What you should do is sand the clear nose piece smooth and buff it shiney again, then mask it for just the one-level set of 4 windows of the proper height.
John, when you painted your window frames, did you mask the 8 windows with tape or liquid mask ? or did you hand paint the dividing lines ?
 

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JP,
Every time I see your Seaview diorama I get inspired to take a crack at it. Just curious, if you had to do it all over again, is there anything you'd change or try differently?

Rob
 

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There are a couple of aftermarket accurizing kits for the PL Seaview if you want to do the four-window TV version, but they're definitely for advanced and very patient modelers as they require an awful lot of shaping and filling to look right. IIRC, Rebellion Creations makes a complete nose section that has to be mated with the kit hull after you've sliced off the front. I don't know about its current availability, though.
 

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Don't know how much time and money you're willing to invest, but a set of Micro-Mark polishing abrasives would come in very handy when it comes to getting those windows nice and crisp.

For my Lubliner Seaview I used Testors Model Master Medium grey (FS35237) for the primary hull color, and Testors Model Master Camouflage Gray (FS 36622) for the underside.

The best Seaview miniature I've ever seen is the one Ed Miarecki built, pix of which can be found via the link below. I found these shots very helpful when I was building my model.

http://www.fxmodels.com/seaview.shtml

Happy building!
 

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Thanks for the nice words!!

I made my Seaview using the Rebellion Creations resin bow. It comes with that tiny Flying Sub too. You do get a nice result but you have to be prepared to cut the bow off your styrene Seaview, mate the new resin bow and do a lot of filling and sanding. But you do get a nice result!!

There are more comments if you check the link in my last post. Here it is again:

http://culttvman.com/dave_hussey_s_seview.html

"Ahead two thirds, Mister Morton"

Huzz
 

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Oxidation Genius
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model maker said:
John, when you painted your window frames, did you mask the 8 windows with tape or liquid mask ? or did you hand paint the dividing lines ?
I masked the windows off with bare Metal Foil. I can't hand paint very cleanly :).
 

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Oxidation Genius
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veedubb67 said:
JP,
Every time I see your Seaview diorama I get inspired to take a crack at it. Just curious, if you had to do it all over again, is there anything you'd change or try differently?

Rob
Well, the fake railroad water has since yellowed and shrunk, so it doesn't look nearly as good now. Plus, the bubbling splash was bigger in the movie - I never got it the same proportions. If I did it over, I think I'd like to try using expanding foam insulation for the splashes instead.
 

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model maker said:
me either, i have that liquid mask but it didn't work very well with my jupiter 2 fusion cores tiny clear panes
They used to have a brand of liquid masking that worked well. Made by Hobbico, or something like that. Walthers bought them out, and stopped making it. I HATE Micro-Mask! It takes longer to set, than most paints.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yep thats what i tried to use , micro mask. i layered it on the bottom panes and put in on thicker in 1 coat on the side panes to see which method worked best and both sucked. i ended up masking all 64 tiny panes on that fusion core part, but it came out good with the masking tape.now i see the fusin core is now an aftermarket accessorie that has a clear insert.
 
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